Ibbo Posted January 20, 2019 Posted January 20, 2019 I've been busy in the shed, getting the old girl up and running, with the hope of getting some miles in this summer, before a strip this winter to tidy up. The 5.5" back wheel off a k just squeezed in with some minor spacing issues, which included shortening the sprocket bolts which had an odd thread size of 10 x 1.25. Luckily I managed to get some help from a friend at work. The front sprocket is spaced as far out as possible on the shaft, and best as I can measure is 1mm out of line, with the rear one. I should have measured the original set up to see how close that was. Reversing the rear sprocket has gained some, so shouldn't be far off. 2 Quote
Ibbo Posted January 20, 2019 Author Posted January 20, 2019 The front end is a mix of bandit yokes, the rubber mounts really take the vibes out which is a big plus, and 1100k forks, wheel, and I think discs. The calipers sold as early hayabusa, but appear to be gsxr600 ones. 2 Quote
Ibbo Posted January 20, 2019 Author Posted January 20, 2019 Yesterday was the big day then, a first ride in the pouring ride isnt my idea of fun, but it had to be done. Surprisingly, the handling feels very sweet, no twitches on white lines, or banding. Easy turning. The motor was fluffing a bit once the throttle was opened. Feels lean at part throttle. Pulls well once it clears the flat spot. Good enough to get to the garage. Mot went very smoothly with an advisory for the exhaust noise. As it should be really. Bit of a zip up to 90 and all seems well. Let the boss know all is well. Into the shed to lift the needles, and then a spin out after. Quote
Ibbo Posted January 20, 2019 Author Posted January 20, 2019 I found that the needles in the cv carbs only have one groove, so I files the little plastic spacer down to 2mm from a varied 2.5 - 2.75mm. Spend 30minutes searching on the beige carpet for one of them, but my luck was in. Seemed to run a bit sweeter, so pulled it out front, and we both got togged up. Hit the button to light the fire, and it tried but hit compression in that way they do, and then the starter gently whirred in an expensive manner. Kit off again to my good ladies disgust. Back in the shed, and the rotor has spun on the taper. The nut being loose of course. The cover had been off before, and lagged up with black gunk, so I should have been suspicious I guess. So as a temporary thing, I cleaned up the crank, and loctited the rotor on. A long bar, and a pin spanner. Hmmmm 100ftlb that is then. No gasket, but I had to test it, it was still kicking back, which meant my repair wasn't going to last. 6 Quote
Ibbo Posted January 20, 2019 Author Posted January 20, 2019 Having read about the advance and retard fix I thought I would try that first, as I thought the theory good. Taking the heel off the arm allows it to retard a little further, but keeps the timing correct as it revs up. Unfortunately it didn't seem to make any difference. Quote
Ibbo Posted January 20, 2019 Author Posted January 20, 2019 Next step is to rewire the starter, and kill switch to allow it to crank while off, unless anyone has an other ideas? Mike Quote
Gixer1460 Posted January 20, 2019 Posted January 20, 2019 How have you set up the ign. - see you are using a Dyna S - best way is with a timing light, easy with GS & GSX as its oil dry that end! Sounds likely too advanced if its bouncing off compression. 1 Quote
Ibbo Posted January 21, 2019 Author Posted January 21, 2019 Hi, Ive not yet checked the timing. The mark looks to be on a piece of tin plate behind the adjustable back plate. Depending where its sat you could certainly alter it a few degrees. Is this normal for this model? I must find a manual. Quote
Ibbo Posted January 21, 2019 Author Posted January 21, 2019 Good spot with the dyna s by the way. Not much to give it away in the pic. Quote
Jonboy Posted January 21, 2019 Posted January 21, 2019 the dyna s set up document should help clarify, if you havent got one i think it is a download on the dyna website. Quote
Jonboy Posted January 21, 2019 Posted January 21, 2019 nice to see another GS1000 with a GSX donkey in it 4 Quote
wraith Posted January 21, 2019 Posted January 21, 2019 5 hours ago, Ibbo said: Hi, Ive not yet checked the timing. The mark looks to be on a piece of tin plate behind the adjustable back plate. Depending where its sat you could certainly alter it a few degrees. Is this normal for this model? I must find a manual. Yes the GS/gsx have a tin plate with the timing marks behind the ATU timing plate, the slots on the ATU plate with give you the adjustment to get the tining spot on with a timing light Nice looking bike by the way. Quote
Ibbo Posted January 21, 2019 Author Posted January 21, 2019 Thanks for the timing info. Will have to get a new degree wheel. Bike looks a bit scruffier in the flesh than in the pics, but i like it. Nice to see theres a few about too. Quote
Ibbo Posted January 21, 2019 Author Posted January 21, 2019 Thanks jonboy for the pointer about the dyna website. I now have instructions. Quote
wraith Posted January 21, 2019 Posted January 21, 2019 11 minutes ago, Ibbo said: Thanks for the timing info. Will have to get a new degree wheel. Bike looks a bit scruffier in the flesh than in the pics, but i like it. Nice to see theres a few about too. Just get a strobe timing light do the job very well with no mess Quote
Ibbo Posted January 21, 2019 Author Posted January 21, 2019 5 hours ago, Jonboy said: nice to see another GS1000 with a GSX donkey in it Good aren't they. Quote
Ibbo Posted January 21, 2019 Author Posted January 21, 2019 Back home for the weekend, will be borrowing a timing light as soon as ive cut the grass. 1 Quote
wraith Posted January 21, 2019 Posted January 21, 2019 Cut the grass at this time of year this is why I've put gravel down 1 Quote
Captain Chaos Posted January 21, 2019 Posted January 21, 2019 maybe he has some "special" grass 1 Quote
Ibbo Posted January 21, 2019 Author Posted January 21, 2019 Well to be fair it might not be the actual grass, but there will be tasks. 1 Quote
Jonboy Posted January 23, 2019 Posted January 23, 2019 On 1/21/2019 at 6:23 PM, Ibbo said: Yep sure are, see you are in Cornwall too, I is at the other end near the border.... Seems there are a few Cornish OSS out there Quote
CockneyRick Posted January 23, 2019 Posted January 23, 2019 had a similar issue with the rear wheel "tightness" I found that the K series rears have a wider hub than the Busa, so i swapped mine & line up was a tad easier. But same as you, i had to shave down the carrier bolts. I then bought some tab locks & 1/2 nuts to sort that issue Third pic is a shaved down carrier which can also give you more mm's to play with. Oh & a 180 tyre 2 Quote
Ibbo Posted January 23, 2019 Author Posted January 23, 2019 10 hours ago, Jonboy said: Yep sure are, see you are in Cornwall too, I is at the other end near the border.... Seems there are a few Cornish OSS out there Maybe a summer meet up would be er, interesting ? 1 Quote
Ibbo Posted January 23, 2019 Author Posted January 23, 2019 8 hours ago, CockneyRick said: had a similar issue with the rear wheel "tightness" I found that the K series rears have a wider hub than the Busa, so i swapped mine & line up was a tad easier. But same as you, i had to shave down the carrier bolts. I then bought some tab locks & 1/2 nuts to sort that issue Third pic is a shaved down carrier which can also give you more mm's to play with. Oh & a 180 tyre I dont have much space between the chain and tyre, what do you think is a reasonable minimum? 1 Quote
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