george 1100
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Posts posted by george 1100
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9 hours ago, beardo said:
So, I confirmed, for my bike anyhow, no wheelie wire. Wasn't really expecting to see one.
Anyhow, looking into the DOT heads, a question popped up in my mind. Would I need the matching cam caps from that head? I seem to recall something about never mixing up caps, but that little thread of information in my brain is from many, many years ago. So who knows. Anything else to look out for concerning the DOT heads?
They tend to crack between the spark plug and valve seat
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4 hours ago, buff said:
Dropped the needles a notch this evening, not so smooth and missing a bit. So back to the middle clip again.
After you dropped the needles maybe you should've brought your acc pump in earlier then maybe quarter turn increments of the pilot to see if that affect sub 4500rpm. Either or, or a combination of both
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Don't forget the accelerator pump also. Start with the default setting and go from there
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Check plug colour after a few hard runs
Try the jets first. Only do one adjustment at a time. Did you check float bowl heights? Is petcock ok?
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Easy fit. Need to fab a rear bracket and from memory, the front bracket needs to be flipped. The rear of tank sits further back so more suited to a custom seat. Petcock works out
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Cheers. Shaft size and spline looks the same. The bearing and race are the same also. So far this looks like an easy mod as long as I can find someone to rivet it together
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On 2/28/2022 at 3:59 AM, clivegto said:
Just so happens I do today
Can you happen to be able to count the output shaft splines or count the hub splines?
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Looks pretty close to me
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Thanks for that
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370Steve, so they made a billet basket, not used the 1000 basket?
The 1000 basket looks like it has very similar rivet spacing which would make the process easier. Does anyone have a bandit basket on a bench to measure the rivet spacing?
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21 hours ago, dupersunc said:
To be honest I've never really need a slipper on il4 bikes my riding style doesn't need one and I was happy to modulate the clutch lever if I did get any rear locking.
However when I was offered one free to try it seemed silly not to. I do feel it working, I guess it has allowed me to go a bit deeper on the brakes, as it gives little more stability.
I would say it's a nice thing to have, rather than a must have on oil cooled track bikes
That's the reason I want to fit one, so I can improve on the hard braking and fast gearing down corners but agree, not a must have.
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I'm thinking I might take this on during the winter months but can't find enough info on the web. I've got an excellent 09 1000 clutch assembly but it doesn't look too straight forward so before I pull out the bandit clutch, has anyone ever done this mod that can also share some step by step knowledge.
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I'ts possible to disassemble the springs without removing the head
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Almost looks like a valve spring seat
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14 hours ago, clivegto said:
@cregnybaatt race bikes all have 6 speed boxes but I think there all 1127's.
Pretty sure they use billet
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On 2/16/2022 at 8:19 PM, Kamikaze said:
I have no dramas with my original fuel tap on my FCR39 track bike, its a 91 model tank and tap.
i switch it to prime and run both fuel lines to the carbs and the vacuum hose to the number 4 intake rubber.
I have no problems at all on track with fuel starvation. but will depend on the fuel tap, they did change on some models
i found that if you continuously turn the oem tap to prime, the internal cast mechanism that enables it to open, is flimsy cast alloy and eventually wears out and fuel doesn't flow. I also believe in prime, it doesn't flow at full volume. When you turn it, there's a slight internal ramp that opens the valve. You will notice the lever very slightly depresses. This happened to two of my oem taps so far. Pingel only for track bike now
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you could get the high comp pistons then play with block spacers
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Head cooler on my track bike is mounted upside down and haven't had any issues
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23 hours ago, fuelline said:
You admired your hair in the reflection from these....
Don't worry, I checked out my hair a few times before I bolted them on
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Those port pics are the before version. Here are a few of the after
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Chain fits and aligns, just use an offset sprocket.
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This may give you some ideas. The swing arms are around the same width at the rear. It works but all depends on how much trouble you want to go to
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Apparently Annitori make a standalone unit for 240usd with rod which is not a bad option or I rip out the HM one from my cbr and adapt it if possible or go with the Ignitech. Decisions ...... The cbr is basically a commute bike and I rarely use the quickshift.
New owner. Some questions.
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Can run fine but I wouldn't risk in in a big dollar engine. Valve seats can fall out