george 1100
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Posts posted by george 1100
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Any reason you are going centre pull? Looks?
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Usually when they don't flow on prime it's because the cast alloy ramp of the centre part that turns, has worn out. They are in general good units but if you use the prime feature often, the cast alloy wears out real quick
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On 6/14/2023 at 11:49 AM, BoostedRooster712 said:
Is anyone able to tell me what ohms range the standard Suzuki OEM oil pressure switch work on that is in most oil cooled engines?
I can't run my engine at the moment to test but I would like to hook it up to my race technology Dash2 if possible or an input on the microsquirt.
It's a switch in the normally closed position so when there is no oil pressure it's a closed circuit and oil pressure light is on. When oil pressure builds, it opens creating an open circuit and light turns off
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I put oversized valves and stage 2 yosh cams in my 1277 and lightened the crank and rods(Hayabusa). Runs very strong , super responsive. Cams are dialed in at 102/105 I only rev it to 10k
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That's very common. Most looms I've seen have that exact problem in varying degrees of failure
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I tried an 2012 1000 basket and it just interfered with the rod. There earlier 1000 may fit as they have a slightly different shape on the outside of the basket but I don't want want to spend the money to find out it won't. Shaft length was also an issue
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5 hours ago, Buzuki said:
Without that small brass plug oil sub-gallery perfect oil sealing will be just impossible , ignition engine cover altogether with associated gasket have nothing in common with oil sealing role of the oil sub-gallery .
Maybe it became an issue so on the later 750, they re-engineered it. Every photo I've seen of 85_86 cases has a hole
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5 hours ago, Upshotknothole said:
Just out of curiosity I checked my later 749cc GSXR engine and that hole isn’t even there. My 1100s have it, but they must have removed it from the later 750 engines.
Correct
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17 minutes ago, Jpich85 said:
Thanks for the help mate, I would expect each side to have a brass plug but from I've researched on the early 750 engines I don't think they put a brass plug in on the ignition pick up side, seems strange but I think the ignition engine cover just blocked it off.
Correct
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The case cover blocks the hole
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If you are at the limit of your tensioner then your chain is operating beyond the manufacturers spec
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Similar thing thing happened to me. Bought a set of used rs40s but didn't try them for over a year so couldn't return them.
Discovered pilot had broken off and become wedged and no matter what I tried, I couldn't remove it. The cost of a replacement body outweighed the cost of buying a new set.
The only thing I didn't look into was to get someone specialised to drilled it out but again, the cost would've been high.
I ended up selling the set as is for surprisingly not bad money and bought new
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I'll bet you had a tiny bit of grit stuck in the needle and seat. Fouling your plugs at idle but running good at open throttle with 145 jets. The grit now gone . Doesn't explain the plugs with 130 jets though
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Needle and seats leaking? Float height?
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I had a problem similar to this with NGKs and the thing is, you assume they're working 100% because they're new, so you set off on a goose chase, driving yourself insane until you come full circle and realise the new plugs you put in were no good
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Personally I wouldn't run that head like that. Those cracks are decent which could lead to the seats falling out. The cost to fix properly would outweigh the cost of the head. Shortcut repair would be to weld up as is but the risk remains
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Zx10 work also but can't remember the year. There was a list of coils on the net somewhere with ohms noted.
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I was waiting for that. Absolutely no chance of metal to metal even after a minute of idle
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I drop the oil then run the engine on idle for about 5-10 seconds to get most of it out
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The oil cooled engine was undervalved imo. It's the single best mod with a compatible port job, you can do. Expensive though
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10 hours ago, Sandman said:
This is not correct. All barrels for 1052 cc 1127 cc and 1157 cc have the same heigth. The length of the conrods for 1052 cc are 117.4 mm, and 1127 cc and 1157 cc are 117.0 mm. Therefore, the squish height for 1052 cc is 0.1 mm larger compared to the 1127 cc and 1157 cc engines (theoretlically) .
The DOT head for GSXR 750 -88/89 are equal to the GSX750F. The difference is the camshafts. GSX750F has shorter duration and lower lift compared to GSXR 750.
The DOT head comes with higher valve spring stiffness compared to the 1052 cc 1127 cc and 1157 cc engines. The rev limiter is higher for GSXR 750 -88/89 and GSX750F compared to 1052 cc, 1127 cc and 1157 cc engines. The valve stiffness for the DOT head is equal to the Yoshimura valve spring kit for ST-2 cams. The valve springs for the DOT head needs to be shimmed to get the correct seat pressure.
Correct but the 750 spring cannot be used with the ST2 10mm lift cams as they will coil bind
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38mm flatslides
Basic port job focusing on cleaning up the bowls, short turn and blend and port match
80mm 12:1 pistons instead of spending on cams
Slotted cam sprockets
No need to skim anything
That should comfortably bump you over 130hp.
Unless you are chasing big numbers, don't waste you're time with big valves and dot heads imo
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I'm just about to make one up for my track slabby but am using a different cowling. Mine will need to support a head cooler also. I'll post up pics. Take yours to a competent fabricator and they should be able to knock one up easy enough
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⬆️ this and to dissipate heat from valve springs
Convert Yoshimura TMR MJN from side pull to centre.
in Oil Cooled
Posted
I contemplated converting mine to side pull just for ease but not sure if it will fit. At the moment the centre pull cables interfere with the oil take off bar at the rear of the valve cover