george 1100
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Posts posted by george 1100
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Unplug it. Engine should still run. Can't see how the gear selector would affect anything. You've basically eliminated everything except fuel supply ie petcock operation.
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Theoretically, that bike should be able to do that in second gear.
Is this happening in top gear or any gear?
Maybe a fuel supply issue? Take the tank off, suck on the vaccum with a syringe and check flow.
Does it redline in first?
Does it feel like it has full power up until 90mph?
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Looks to me like the blue linkage needs to be closer to parallel with the ground and the mount on the swingarm should be higher. As the swingarm moves up, the triangle will move counterclockwise compressing the shock
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Looks to me like the blue linkage needs to be closer to parallel with the ground and the mount on the swingarm should be higher. As the swingarm moves up, the triangle will move counterclockwise compressing the shock
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To me it looks like minimal compression with the shock moving slightly forward
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Here's mine
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Cheap 38's is going to be way better than 36's
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Might have something to do with the dot head. From memory the valves are slightly longer so maybe the cam locations are slightly higher. Ive never done a dot head but plenty here have.
Maybe you could machine down the cam chain roller spacers
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1 hour ago, Dezza said:
If using 750 j,k cams in a GSXR1100 do you have to use the 1100 cam sprockets?
Yes
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I can't remember exactly but might be a cam sprocket thing. Where did those cams come from?
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Good idea. I'll check that out.
Wound them out only 1/4 from 'close' and she's idling very nicely. Went for a ride and power comes on linear and pulls very hard.
Also starts first go with a bit of choke only. With the 17.5 pilot jets, it was was a bit stubborn to start. Way better now.
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Been trying to fine tune my 711 Slingshot as its been running rich at idle. Floats are all set at 17mm. With 17.5 pilot jets, even with the screws 1/4 turn out, still ran rich on idle. Change the pilot jets to 15's and am getting a good idle at 1/2 turn out. As I was trying to find the sweet spot, I decided to wind them all the way in and the bike still idled, not as good as 1/2 turns out but still idled. I contacted mikunioz to shed some light as I've never come across this before. Anyone here experienced this?
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23 minutes ago, BillyR said:
Do the 750's respond well to a decent porting job?
There's a lot to be gained with oil cooled heads. The factory castings and valve seat/pockets are mediocre
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Maybe use a dot head with 30/26 oversized valves and use the st2 cams or get your cams reprofiled. $$$
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31 minutes ago, Upshotknothole said:
I already have a build that will eventually get the turbo treatment.
This one I want to see how far I can push an NA 750.
955cc, lightened crank, Carillo rods, big valve head, Yoshi st2 cams, fcr39's , decent exhaust system , two oil coolers
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I have a complete rear wheel from a 2012 1000 that will bolt perfectly into that swingarm with correct chain alignment. I even have the offset front sprocket
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I've got the later bpf type which where a little more tricky than the earlier 1000 forks. From memory had something to do with the top steering head bearing but in general, not difficult. Need to make a steering stop also
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I've got 1000 forks so just had to get a different clamp for the fork leg but otherwise should be ok
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I have one on my slabby
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A lot of US high performance car parts are made in China and have proven to be on par with US made. They have the latest and greatest manufacturing technology that embarrasses the rest of the word. Bottom line it comes down to quality control. They can and will make anything you want, good, mediocre or shit.
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8 hours ago, Upshotknothole said:
They do, but they're shorter and lower compression. Perfect for turbo builds, useless for NA builds.
I have busa rods in my 1277 na engine. Better rod/stroke ratio, less sidewall loading, better torque, better for high rpm, piston spend more time at TDC,
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7/11
in Oil Cooled
That's painful
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7/11
in Oil Cooled
If you remove the breather, it should be doable
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7/11
in Oil Cooled
I've got a 1052 motor in a 750L frame and the valve cover is removable without a problem
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Petcock rebuild
in Oil Cooled
Posted
From memory, if you remove the guts out from the other side you should be able to get access to tap it out