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Posts posted by george 1100
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I'm just about to make one up for my track slabby but am using a different cowling. Mine will need to support a head cooler also. I'll post up pics. Take yours to a competent fabricator and they should be able to knock one up easy enough
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⬆️ this and to dissipate heat from valve springs
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11 hours ago, HWB said:
I did not. Stupid i know, but the engine turned over by hand smoothly so i took the go.
Are ylu suggesting the pistons kissing the valves ? Wouldnt that have broken the engine by now ? It has 4k kms on it already
It's possible. Also maybe cam timing is out. Did you use slotted cam sprockets? Bolts may have worked loose. Bent rod or rods maybe. Piston may have smacked the head
Was it there from day one or did it gradually appear or suddenly appear. How was it performing?
I'd be taking the valve cover off for a looksee and checking comp as a starting point
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15 hours ago, Duckndive said:
Did you dry build and check valve to piston clearance before final assembly
This
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Yep, doesn't look right. From what I know, that should not be able to protrude like that unless the orifice has been drilled out
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6 hours ago, kev34 said:
Where about did you get the work done and may I ask how much?
I'm in Aus so price probably not relevant to you. Also had other machining work bundled in so not sure of the price breakdown per item. I bought the sleeves from APE. In short, motor has oversized valves, 40mm tmr's and yosh-2 cams. Power is 'impressive' and usable throughout the rev range
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I have a 1277. There's a big cost to consider because of the sleeves and boring the cases
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I know of a guy that successfully ran 85mm pistons in a 1127 block with LA sleeves
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That dent would need welding and then resurfacing....again
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You would need to check valve to piston clearance also
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Test the petcock
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Sounds like a fuel issue
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Haha, this is getting weird but I'll play along
I don't know about other gaskets, I'm just talking about cometic multi layered steel (MLS) gaskets.
Zoom in and you will see the rivets that hold the multi layers together
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I run 750 springs in one of my engines with oversized valves, oem retainers and 9.2mm lift intake cams
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58 minutes ago, Joseph said:
RF pumps are around 60L/h
That's good to know, cheers. Out of curiosity, why did the rf's have a pump fitted?
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1 hour ago, clivegto said:
1.5 to 2psi on turbo bike. As said I would probably go with the RF pump or one from a gsxr 1000 in tank.
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He runs race fuel also which may affect how much capacity that's required.
So would a 3-5 psi 30 gallon/hr pump together with a regulator that operates in the 1-2 psi range with a return line, do it?
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38 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
Just find an interrupter type pump - H***a NTV's / Dullvilles have them. When the bowls are full the back pressure holds the contacts open so pump stops. I think Yam R1's have similar pumps before they went EFI and would be sized for 125 - 140hp?
Motor is apparently full house 1340 putting out 180hp+
I've been researching for him as curiosity got the better of me. Holley have some interesting products that are 2-4 psi and flow 30 gallons/hr . Have low pressure adjustable regulators also
Yes Joseph, will need a return line
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Yes I was thinking this but wouldn't a turbo bike require more psi as the bowls are pressurised. I'm no turbo expert by the way.
Out of curiosity, what psi pump and reg are you using?
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Has anyone ever done this? I'm asking on behalf of someone that's has a 1340 race car and the tank sits lower that the float bowls. They're currently running a vacuum activated pulse pump but it's not coping
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Doesn't show tacho, neutral and oil pressure sensor
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Nice bits
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1052 road tuning
in Oil Cooled
Posted
38mm flatslides
Basic port job focusing on cleaning up the bowls, short turn and blend and port match
80mm 12:1 pistons instead of spending on cams
Slotted cam sprockets
No need to skim anything
That should comfortably bump you over 130hp.
Unless you are chasing big numbers, don't waste you're time with big valves and dot heads imo