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Posts posted by george 1100
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One of my previous standard track engines would have around 5 times as much as that after every 3 track days. Every oil change I'd get nervous but it kept going. I keep it as a spare now but haven't got around to stripping it down yet but if I had to guess, I'd say transmission followed by cams and rockers
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5 hours ago, Panos said:
I have a question , why is nobody connecting the second cooler inline with the main one ?
I think johny1bump wrote about doing it this way next time or maybe i am wrong .
That is totally unnecessary. On some of the race bikes back in the day, they actually used the large main cooler to cool the head, then fitted a smaller cooler in place of the main one.
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What's the story with these? They appeared on the second gen gsxr and bandits. Do they actually provide reinforcement or do they just hold the cam chain from dropping down during can removal/maintenance?
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Very difficult to mount out front on these bikes. I guess you could try an rk type setup depending on what type of exhaust you have or you could double up but that may limit turning circle
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9 minutes ago, HWB said:
Well the whole build is 'used' the dot head obviously used cranks used valves used, bottom end used, pistons everything.. i broke it in a bit before kicking the shit out of it to be honest, ran hard for a good 15 minutes, high rpm low gear, might be foolish of me but considering all parts were already married before. I did change all seals and gaskets as ine should, fresh oil and thats about it. Carbs are rs38 stock main jets and stock everything except for 50mm velocity stacks with no filter as for the time being cz i need to see the accelerator pump nozzle and dial accordingly. I tried to give an ear for detonation by riding on 5th at low speed all i could hear was the crackling of the slides. Can anyone point me to a good cooler that WORKS and FITS with my fairings ?
I will do a spark plug check later and post pics hoepfully no indication of knock will appear, or at least if knock is occuring i would like to be able to see to confirm
I did point you to one that works and fits
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I'm not sure of the exact fuel tap you have there but I believe the vacuum operated Suzuki ones use the same principal.
If the taps are repeatedly turned to prime and back, the inbuilt ramp that pushes the needle to allow fuel to flow, wears out. It's only soft cast alloy and it's actually difficult to even notice it's worn. Happened to me and I almost went insane before I figured it out.
The correct way to turn the gsxr taps onto prime is to push and turn at the same time. This may apply to yours also
Try turning it to prime then pushing it in to see if it flows
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1 hour ago, fab said:
problem with most other quickshifter brands they dont do them for older bikes
I fitted an Annitori to mine and it works perfect
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Dirt has gotten in there and keep needle and seats open. A good rev and tap the carbs may help otherwise they will need cleaning and maybe also your tank
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Sticky throttle, vacuum leak, lean pilot a good place to start
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Yes, it looks like it would create problems rather than be of any benefit
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Sorry, question was for BikeJake but sounds like you have some nice engines there
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Also, when you say big bore, how big are we talking?
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Dot head head has small combustion chambers which, depending on your piston kit, will give you too much of a compression ratio. Stick to the bandit head imo
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Best bang for bucks imo are oversized valves with a ported head.
Run the gsxr ecu with a 4 degree advancer
Stepped headers if you can get them- 38-42-50-60.5mm then the can
40mm flatslides
Yosh cams are expensive but you can always get your cams reground for half the money by a competent shop. I have a set of welded and reground cams in one of my bikes and they work very well
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Bubble may not flow fuel from the bottom of the tank
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8 hours ago, HWB said:
Can you explain more please ?
Something like this. Cut 10mm strip all around and weld back together. If you cut more than 10/12mm, the OEM petcock handle will interfere with the underside of the top chassis rail.
You can cut more than 10mm if you use a pingel
Obviously, fuel capacity will be reduced
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On both my 7/11 builds, I cut and shut 10mm off the bottom of the fuel tank sumps though I wouldn't have done that if I wasn't repainting
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52 minutes ago, Joseph said:
Yep thats what is often seen used on japanese builds (bright logic has several with that seat)
Do you have any info about that second one you posted ? Its been posted around a lot but never linked to any info
No info, just found it on my phone files
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Such an awesome bike. Seat, tank, fairing and paint scheme suit perfectly.
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Yep, that's the way to go then you'll know 100%
Bandit 1200 engine mileage.
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Yeah, very difficult to find under AUD$1500 these days. They're all hoarded