baldrick

Just a quick update. If you have cracked side panels and everything else has failed, then go out and get yourself some Wurth re-plast. Its a 2 pack plastic adhesive (needs a special gun for the cartridges), and mixing nozzles. Cost me 46 odd quid,for the gun and a cartridge, with 2 nozzles, and im tighter than a ducks arse. But...........IT WORKS, and it works well. I drilled a hole to the end of the crack, right thru the panel, and a couple of other smaller holes along the crack, then got the die grinder fired up and a V shaped grinding tool , and ran along the length of the crack about 3-5mm deep, angled the edges to a vee shape, on both sides of the crack, and ground off the crud from the back of the panel around the crack, to expose the plastic. Filled it with the magic goo, and spread it over the crack, flush with the surface of the panel with a razor blade. Left to set in front of the radiator, then gave it some ham fisted - abuse and it hasnt budged. Will re-attach some side panel lugs next, but waiting for more nozzles. Wurth re-plast HIGHLY RECOMMENDED PRODUCT.

wiring could be, er interesting. Think you would be better off throwing the loom away and starting again. Its good to see this back

i agree, slingy wheels are heavy, has anyone actually weighed up some of the more modern wheels, to see which ones are lightest. im curious, but imagine fitting wheels from a new model 750 say would make a massive difference to the handling.

i also made a loom for my harris and it was a daunting prospect. --BUT........ But you can place all the components exactly where you want, and just make up the wiring to length, and just use mini connector blocks to suit. the best thing about this is that you only keep the parts of the loom that you want, and you dont have to try and hide great loops of standard loom. everything is made to measure. follow the wiring diagram, but break it down to individual circuits, and its not too difficult. i also made one for my gsxr/efe, but it was a while ago, and if i can do it, anyone can, cos im a electro-tard! also use the correct crimping pliers and jap spec connectors - dont even think about using those bloody crimp on - fall off pre insulated connectors, unless you like standing at the side of your non functioning bike in the middle of no where. vehicle wiring products will have everything you need 1500 quid is bloody ridiculous to my tight fisted mind

any machine shop should be able to knock some up, given the dimensions just need longer bolts for attaching them.

its painted now, (well its primered), so i would rather leave the vent panels in place than risk snappping the wee pegs. Ive had a real close look and the paint has covered everything you can see so its all good. but useful information for anyone else in the same boat, so thanks for that just waiting for the wurth plastec panel adhesive/filler to arrive to repair the cracks and mounting lugs. 50 fucking quid- including the 2 pack gun for it- it better be good. i will report back

its only on the fairing tho.If it was silicone contamination it would be on everything, but all the other panels are fine? It looks like pinholes in the fibreglass, which will need to be filled. I could just coat over it with primer filler, but the pinholes will just be bridged, and will come out to play in future, so thats no use. Gelcoat is on order fror it , and ive started sanding down another set of katana bodywork as well, at least this set look s like its ok - so far. All of the tail sections have the same moulding mark, just where the back section starts to head up to the light. This set must have been re-painted before, because the tail section is silver and it doesnt have the rough bubbly finish of standard 1100s Might go "custom paint" on the second set, we will see. Might as well do the whole lot as one job instaed of making 2 out of it

it does look like an oil spill of some sort, but looking at it, its everywhere, including on the underside too. ive spent a couple of hours this afternoon sanding 90% of it back to the gel base coat, and will order up some gelcoat, and just brush a fresh coat or two on (dont want to f*ck up my expensive sprayguns with epoxy). At least this way i can be sure all the fibreglass pinholes are filled, and it has a solid base to paint on, without the risk of any future reactions. He said................hopefully Its all a learning process isnt it?

Thanks for the reply Wtaith, i appreciate your help. You are right about modern paints, but some are better than others- i like standox, or PPG and if you're looking for a rock hard clearcoat, use glasurit, but its a c*nt to cut back and flatten/ polish, because it sets so hard. Ive done a bit more digging on the tinterweb, and it looks like its either; Like you said, a reaction between the previous paint and the new stuff. solvent pop maybe Moisture in the paint- if no moisture trap was used - apparently this can takes years to pop out of the topcoat Grease or oil of some sort under the top coat I suspect its the fibreglass tho, maybe its porous, because none of the other painted parts are showing this bubbling . Im tempted to just seal it and 2k prime/ filler it, but knowing my luck it will do the same again, so i think i will have to sand it all down to the gel coat and start again - ahh bollox!! At least if i do this i can spray on a fresh gel coat, then prime etc etc, but its gonna be a ball ache sanding all the nooks and crannies back to gel coat. oh well. Anyone else care to offer an insight?

Hello again, Feeling rather bouyed by the success of my efe painting i decided to tackle the purple abomination (Katana) Its been re painted the most revolting purple colour, which is a sin on par with fitting "other make" parts to suzukis, or, even horror, riding a "blade" It cant stay that colour, i thought, i would be embarrassed to be seen on it, it must be silver, as the gods of Hammamatsu intended! So i started sanding. Ok so its not quite that bad , but its f*cked up, and whoever chose it needs a visit from the taste police. So it had obviously reacted badly on the fibreglass fairing, creating lots and lots of bubbbles on the surface. I sanded it down with 180 on the D/A and you can see the result. Now i was thinking about putting down a coat of sealer, then priming it with 2k primer filler, etc, but the bubbles are deeper than i first thought, i expected them to just have come from the underlying coat, (white), but there are some from the underlying primer (orange). Any experts know what might have caused this? and more importantly, how to fix it. I dont mind if i have to sand it right back to the gel coat, but on the same account i dont want to sand it further if it doesnt need it. I do want it done properly tho, and dont want to have to re-do it if it react again Any advice, here are some pics Its just on the fairing, all the plastic panels, mudguard etc are fine. Im presuming its the fibreglass thats causing it. Please help

better off with the 17 inch wheels to be honest, at least then you can use decent rubber, a 5.5 rear wheel, machined sprocket carrier option would be suitable, but dont "over tyre " it with a 180, if it is too wide, it doesnt need to be that big, and will possible end up with chain/ tyre sidewall chewing. Swingarm swaps need the engine out and the frame, and if you want to do it properly, the lower frame cross member removed and replaced, This will mean you can transplant the replacement swingarm, shock and linkage straight in without using different dog bones etc, and if you get to keep the leverage ratios of the new swingarm, shock combination. (which means it will work!) Front end, a gsx 600 wheel and discs fit, im fairly certain thats what the Captain used on one of his, but you might want to check, to be on the safe side.

Its a bit of a risk, especially because mine dont look half as clean or corrosion free as yours do. Knowing my luck i will break it, and they are unobtainium now arent they? Oh well, think i will just have to scotchbrite them, and spray some adhesion promotor. Thanks for your help fellahs

Hello, im in the process of prepping my efe sidepanels to paint them, and i want to remove the side vent section. Its held on by some weird little clips, which are quite corroded. Any idea how these come off, it looks like its held in a " low n" position if that makes sense. Do i just lever up the ends at the same time, or whats the secret, cos i dont want to break the vents or their little plastic pegs which the clip is connected to ? thanks, i hope

ive been looking around for the past couple of years, and i cant find em. Maybe im looking in the wrong places (Eblag etc)

I have a couple of saets, but they are pretty poor condition, with varying degrees of corrosion, but its no surprise , given that they were just pressed steel when new. and as Yoshi says, you just cant find them in decent nick these days. They tend to attract a bit of rust after 40 odd years lol, but im afraid over 200 quid a pop is a bit too steep for me too. Thanks for trying tho Yoshi

do you have any idea what sort of money he would be looking for one? Because im a tight b*stard, this would have an effect on whether i wanted one or not.

i take it that this never happened then? saw a few old skool bikes at the grandstand one day but that was it.

Ha ha, great minds think alike

Its been done already Gixxerron made his own copy of the spondon kat. this was also in chromoly if i remember rightly and it looked like a nice job. He adapted a std kat frame, but it looked good

so where/ when is everyone meeting then, ? i might come along, just so Yan isnt the only defector

Nah mate, Its Voodoo magic !!

gsxr got the treatment too, but im not happy with it, so it will get re-done. its white , silver and marbelised silver black base. i really need to buy some other colours eh?

well i kinda followed the guidelines. What do you reckon? Its still to be clear coated and there are a couple of adhesive marks from the masking tape, but overall im happy and think the crystals ROCK!!!

rather than dreg this i'll pm you

Clearly not, some pedant removed them, jeezus wept........ talk about petty! This place has cheanged, what next, pics of suzukis with other make forks/ seat units, shocks etc etc removed?