alfiestorm

Been busy, fitted new chain, ultra sonic cleaned the carbs and set them up to factory spec and gave it a bit of a tune up and now running very nice. Gave it a bit of a polish up too came up quite good for original paint. First video is how it was with leaky carb and running quite rough. Second video is it running after I had ultrasonic cleaned the carbs and tune it up, running spot on.

Got it for 2.5k off a mate. 11k miles imported from Canada. Very good I think condition for an original unrestored bike. Getting it registered and do a few bits and bobs to it and enjoy it on the road

One off of a bandit 6 or 1200 will do it.

Not enough charge going into the battery maybe or a broken wire in the loom near the engine, loom warms up flexes bike cuts out bike cools down loom wire makes connection bike starts and so on? or cdi breaking down when it gets warm I have had that happen before and was a bugger to track down to the cdi, or starter solenoid playing silly buggers .

Looking to change the two pot standard caliper for a four pot caliper. I measured the mount centres with a rule and came out at 73mm my old eyes were telling me, theres plenty of room for a four pot and will miss the spokes easily as the old two pot caliper is very wide compared to more modern four pot calipers. Has anyone put a four pot caliper on that bolted straight on, if so what caliper did you use from what bike. It's the single front disc model on the left hand side and pretty much useless on todays roads. Thanks in advance.

I would recommend getting it dyno'd, at least then you will know the true power of the bike and the mixture settings through the rev range will be good and safe. Cost me £185 to have it set up on the dyno.

152 at the back wheel and 90ftlbs of torque

Thought I would share carb settings of my Mikuni RS38's for anyone that may have a similar setup to my bike. The bike a GSXR1100L 1990 it has, gas flowed head, Wiseco 1216 kit, Kent cams suited to the gas flow and big bore, Cobra stainless steel big bore down pipe exhaust system original 1990's system too. Carb settings Main jets are 140's Pilot jets are 17.5's and the fuel mixture screw is set at half turn out. This may help anyone with RS38's with a similar setup to my bike at least a base line to work from.

old age spots, never seen them before, Might be worth investigating further in case its something special from the factory maybe, or might just be lumps left over from someones idea on something.

Not yet, getting into the bike at the weekend.

I am working on a mates rg250 with him and doing a oily rag restomod on it, We have a complete Yamaha R1-Z250 front end to go on to get shot of the standard 16" wheel and crap brake set up so the front is sorted. Left us thinking about the back end and their is not a lot of room to fit anything bigger than a 120 tyre in there. Would anyone know if a swingarm off of an RGV VJ21 will fit in the RG frame ? or any other swingarm that will allow a 17" x 4 or 4.5" rim and a 140/150 section tyre. Something I just remembered is the original rear wheel is an 18" so maybe a 17" wheel will allow a 140 section tyre as it will sit further back in the standard swing arm? Any ideas or advice will be much appreciated.

They went to power valve motors in 1985, Suzuki called their system SAEC which I think although not 100% sure stands for Suzuki Advanced Exhaust Control

I have sorted it out it was indeed what dupersunc said weak mixture at low rpm's, I used a colour tune set to get it right. Relieved it was just that and didn't have to go further into the engine. The screws are less than a quarter turn out and they were half turn out so these carbs are quite sensitive to adjustments on this fuel mixture screw. Thanks for all you advice chaps much appreciated.

What dupersunc said about weak low rpm mixture got me thinking. When I fitted the overhaul kit to the carbs it came with new fuel mixture screws with all the needle like ends the same length and the ones I took out were all different lengths due to wear over the years. I set the new ones to what the old ones were set to. Will put the colour tune on later today to see what the burn is and set it with that and see what happens.

Thanks for the reply, It currently has 17.5 pilots fitted do you think they should be bigger.

Anyone have experience of these systems. I have one on my GSXR1100L that has a 1216 Wiseco big bore, Upperton flowed head and a set of Kent cams to suite the flowed head and big bore. The carbs are Mikuni RS38's which I have just ultra sonic cleaned and fitted a genuine Mikuni overhaul kit and exhaust is ss original cobra system from the early 90's. The problem I have is quite bad spit back through the carbs all four of them at low revs up to 3.5k which makes for a rubbish ride around town. Seems to have become a problem since fitting the ignitech and I am guessing the map that it came pre programmed with is not suitable maybe. I have tried adjusting the advance up and down and only moves the issue to lower down the rev range. Is there a correct map to use for the oil cooled engine. The map that came pre programmed just says GSX. When I had the standard ignition box with one of them advance rotors all was ok however I did used to get the odd spit back now and again. I am going to check valves clearance's again and cam timing again and dial them in this time. Is it possible I may have too much valve overlap? Has anyone got any settings for the ignitech they could share with me for the oil cooled motors. Any info will be much appreciated.

i am lost as to why this mod is done can someone explain please. It has been an interesting read though.

I have an 1990 1100l owned it since 1993 spent k's on it love it to bits. The 1100l were the first production bikes to use usd forks. My advice would be buy it and keep it oh and ride it. Mine aint no show pony but is in very very nice unrestored condition.

Cant remember the last time I replaced one of those gaskets always re-used them as long as they are in one piece.

Sounds like a starter clutch repair kit needed. same thing happened to mine got a repair kit problem solved

I just had a ganders on that auction site, boat loads of systems for the 600 srad on there

yep genuine suzuki ones, atleast you know it will fit proper and work. I always get model specific just incase there are any little changes just to be safe.

It could be that you have two duff cdi untis maybe. or power feeding the cdi is being interrupted or high resistance build up reducing the power feeding the cdi, most likely caused by heat build up such as above the engine area. Or you really do have to tempramental cdi boxes

Just had a look at the short list your bike has just got my vote