skelly

A long time ago I tig welded some damage like that then dressed it with a file and lapped the rotor on with some fine carburundum. It worked well and never gave a problem. Just a thought.

No point whatsoever messing with carbs and ignition until you have checked the valve clearances and compressions. You could have the cleanest carbs in the world but they would be useless if your clearances were out, especially if they were too tight. Checking your comps is a good way to tell that you have 4 cylinders capable of compressing a similar amount of air. Once those boxes are ticked you can start looking at carbs/ign. Skelly.

Ok, Some interesting points. My engine is naturally aspirated with an EFE head and Wiseco 1170 kit. I put some white paint markers on my throttle twist at 25%, 50% & 75%. As far as the ignition goes, it is quite advanced at light throttle openings, then backs off as you wind it up and the cylinder pressures increase, then advances again up to V max. The fueling so far is around 13.5 on tickover then around 14.2 up to around 20% RPM, throttle and after that it richens up progressively to around 12.8 at maximum rpm and velocity. I must say its quite a challenge to keep an eye on the throttle markers, AFR gauge, and the road when at high throttle openings and the bike is accelerating like mad, and I'm not bigging it up or anything but it is bloody fast. So far these numbers seem to work pretty well, I deffo get what some of you guys have said about rich mixtures on boosted bikes but in my case slightly leaner works ok and the response is good. I still have a couple of spots to address, for example at 4K and around 10% throttle it is very rich, 10:1, so I'll sort that and a bit of work on the throttle transients but overall I'm mega happy with it.

Hi everyone. I have just fitted an AEM wideband lambda sensor and AFR gauge to my katana so that I can get my fuel injection setup a little better. I have to say, its a pukka piece of kit with super fast response time. I have tidied up the bottom end fueling no end and the bike is starting to run real clean now, However.. I'm curious, what kind of AFR do these old air cooled engines like ? I was going to go for around 13.5:1 on cruise and around 12.5:1 over 50% throttle mainly for a better full power mixture and to try to keep things cool also. Anyone have any other ideas on this ? Cheers. Skelly.

I may bring my injected katana. As long as the guy doing the dynoing is reputable and professional. Anyone know the guys at Torquetune ? Cheers. Skelly.

Righty.. Update time. I have my freshly rewound stator back from Rex's. My injectors back from being cleaned. Adjusted valve clearances. Changed oil & filter. New fuel pump from McGill motorsport. Cleaned fuel filter. New plugs. LED tail, headlight & clock bulbs. Started fine and I must say it sound fucking fantastic. Initial tests show it charging at 13.6 volts at 3000 rpm with the lights on.. Should be able to road test it in next few weeks. My gut feeling is that it feels good.. Skelly.

Hi Everyone. I have been having a discussion recently about throttle bodies and weather its a good idea to dynamically balance them with vacuum gauges like you do with carbs.. Or.. To simply set them all the same with a drill bit or similar. This will be on a naturally aspirated engine with no individual pulswidth correction between cylinders. What do you guys think ? Skelly.

@ArttuThat's cool. However, for a start I am going to get my original stator rewound. So far on my quest for knowledge I have found the following.. The only people that I would trust to rewind my stator are Rex's speedshop, https://www.rexs-speedshop.com/ they are the only people who totally strip ALL the old insulation from the original stator and rewind it and test it. They are also happy to add up to 10% more copper to the windings, this will help the generators output at low rpm but means that it will produce slightly less at high rpm. Having looked at the rpm trace on my bikes datalogger its surprising how much time you spend under 5000 rpm in 'normal' road use. This approach suits me as its a big torquey engine and the problems I was having were at low rpm. When the stator comes back in the post I'll stick it on and run the bike with my new fuel pump. While I'm at it I'm having the injectors cleaned and flow tested by these people https://www.fuelinjectorclinic.co.uk/ This guy really seems to know his shit and he also sends you a video of your injectors being flow tested. As soon as I get it all built back up I'll run it and let you all know how it goes. Cheers. Skelly.

Great to meet some of you guys today. Stand looked good, good atmosphere in that bit too.

I would be up for this. I could bring the katana.

So.. Joking aside, yes it is possible. Don't forget to undo the M6 bolt at the front of the head. In fact, undo that one first then loosen the head nuts, the copper washers may have crushed slightly so you may have to bear that in mind.

Ok, My katana is completely rewired and everything is powered through relays, its a tidy job and everything is protected in heat shrink. I have ran all three phases through a H***a type reg rec so one phase no longer goes around the lighting circuit. So far I have changed the taillight bulb to LED, I'm in the process of changing the clock illumination bulbs to blue LED's and the high beam warning light also. I haven't bothered with the indicators, neutral or oil light as they are rarely on. The headlight is an interesting one as some LED headlight bulbs are fan cooled which defeats the purpose of this thread. Some LED headlight bulbs are basically shit so its important to get one with a built in heat sink and correct placement of the LED's so as not to give a fuzzy and random beam pattern. So after doing some research I bought this. https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/Super-Bright-Headlight-Bulb-LED-Motorcycle-1x-H4-BA20D-DC-Beam-Bulb-DC-12V-UK/223059181457?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 And this, https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/H4-LED-3-COB-Motorcycle-Headlight-Lamp-Bulb-6000K-Hi-Lo-Beam-Light-White-18W-XB/143069414161?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 If these two turn out to be a load of crap then I will get this, https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/Novsight-H4-Fanless-Hi-Low-LED-Headlight-Bulbs-Conversion-Kit-White-50W-10000LM/263981632159?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144 If that turns out to be shite, I have no idea. I will post my findings on here if any of you are interested. The fuel pump that I mentioned above from McGill motorsport arrived the day after I ordered it (very impressed) so I will stick that on and see what happens. Just as a precautionary measure I will be sending my generator stator off to either Westcountry windings or Rex's speedshop to have it rewound which will hopefully improve the output. Cheers. Skel.

Yes. But not with the carbs or zorst attached.

I was having problems with a 36-1 trigger wheel so I bought 24-2 one from @Arttuand it has been spot on. This is on my injected GSX1170 katana, starts easy with 0 degrees of advance on cranking, transition from cranking set at 500RPM. No false tooth or sync errors either.