CockneyRick
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Posts posted by CockneyRick
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Or just run it with the lights permanently on, although i binned that circuit myself!
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Fatbars.
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I had a top loader, does that help
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Finally found what the shorter Efe one is, it's a GS1000S cable 58200-49011
Ordered 2 off different sites, & despite the claim(s) one was same length (longer) as GS1000E but the other was spot on.
So i now have a new cable that fits perfectly, but the bastard is still heavy, just a little lighter than the old cable!
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Done it on a GS1000, plan to do it on my EFE when i get to doing the engine.
Got the parts so will eventually have a definitive answer.
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Anybody know? Have tried both & the shorter one def works better on the GS1000 even though it's old & sticky.
The longer new one is really heavy no matter which routing i use!
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Could even go 520 as i have on my EFE & GS1000. As recco's ask @gsxr884
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Thought i'd try my Ef cable on the GS1000 & it's about 3" shorter.
So does anyone have a definitive guide to the GSX1100EF (E) & GS1000 cable lengths?
I want to use the shorter one on both bikes, but unsure which if any are OE? Plus the shorter one i have needs replacing anyway!
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Having tried all, i'd say any.
Just look at the price cos K&N do like to add a "Snap on" type premium
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17 hours ago, Brian foord said:
I have re routed cable with standard style cable it’s made a big improvement. Got new clutch springs and plates on the way. As I think it’s got heavy duty springs as I seem to remember the previous owner saying he fitted them because the clutch was slipping a bit
Rerouted how?
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Wiseco in mine & no issues for over 10 years.
Mind you, it was done by Roger Upperton
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It does actually go under the edge of the casing, that's just a pic before i put carbs on.
It's the hi point of the red cover that now touches the braided hose as it passes over it.
I'll take a current pic later.
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As you can see in pic i've put a rubber/pvc cover on the starter motor lead. With the head cooler plumbing running above it.
However (not in pic) when the other end is plumbed in the hose then literally sits on the lead cover.
Once the bike is up to temp, the hose & the Amp draw heat is causing the cover to melt & short.
So suggestions please for a better type of cover, ceramic would be good but that's probably impossible to find?
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Allegedly one for the Efe & other for GS1000. I'd guess the longer is for the Efe but just making sure
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Can anyone tell me the length of the rack, just the stem part, without the tophat?
Or the length of a lockup one, i've got 2 here & ones 2-3mm longer then the other???
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Just fitted the VM29s on my Yosh & tbh the return springs are that strong it doesn't need a push cable. I fitted it anyway
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Cheers
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Are they the same?
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Could be end of stock etc etc, but i'd be the same & say fake
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Nah, 630 is so big ugly & pointless!
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7 hours ago, gs7_11 said:
Yes. Far as I'm aware, the VM29s are smaller spaced, like an overbored VM26/28, whereas the VM30s fit the large port head as on the later 34mm CV carb bikes.
Every day's a school day
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Since learned the VM & CV head spacing on GS1000 is different.
Also that a KZ900/1000 pre 79 rubbers should work.
Ordered a set so we will see???
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Didn't think it'd be a straight swap to put the VM29s onto the CV34 rubbers.
VM29: 38-50-38 & 40mm OD Inlet side
CV34: 36-52-36 & 41.5mm OD Inlet side
So do i need the earlier VM head rubbers to make them fit, or will a lot of wangling get them on that spacing?
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You def want the ones that are in 1st link.
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Oil pump
in Air Cooled
Posted
Yes, what you should be looking at is the same number of total teeth. For instance:
GS1000 Driven gear = 33T & Drive gear = 34T total = 67 teeth.
GS750 driven gear = 29T & Drive gear = 38T total = 67 teeth.
I believe even the GSX400 pump gears are the same as the GS750. As long as the fittings are the same, it just needs to add up to 67