CockneyRick
-
Posts
3,034 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by CockneyRick
-
-
Don't see why not, i have a OEM spare & i've also fitted an aftermarket one to mine. Although it hasn't run in anger yet!
-
5 minutes ago, Swiss Toni said:
If I remember correctly, the po of your engine built this a few years ago.
Managed to speak over phone & he confirmed that yes it was his & has only recently had the rebore etc
-
So the St2 cams, 1230 bore & i have a set of CV36s or even CV34s?
-
6 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
Possibly early GSX11 - ET etc. maybe a regrind? 1075 and 1135 cams are interchangable.
I do actually have a set of Stage 2 Kent cams here, despite the bigbore but they may be a bit much for road do you think?
-
Cheers, apparently a guy called Con Skett owned the engine before, but tried to contact him but no reply
-
Out of curiosity i popped the lid off the 1230EF? engine i acquired, & i was looking at cams & noticed the front had a worm drive on it.
Now i know that is similar to the cams in my GS1000, but seeing as the Efe doesn't run a front engine tacho drive, i'm wondering what cams they could be?
-
On 1/15/2021 at 5:15 PM, Sheep said:
Made these for my 1230 EFE but changed them last year for more conventional 4 into 2 and I must admit the new ones are better for low down as Gixer1460 says but the side swept version did look good
.thumb.jpg.21e60d053200d81a171510fec9ade89b.jpg)
Did you get rid of these @Sheep?
-
I did think after posting photo, it's the same angle as the fins on the block
-
So having done more jobs on the Efe, i came back to the cooler i fitted.
The angle of airflow isn't best, so i'm wondering should i start again with the mounting & get it more vertical?
Also i would think getting the headers (V&H) back on might help too with the hose routing?
-
1
-
-
57 minutes ago, Reinhoud said:
You've got the breaker point ignition I guess, Fit an electronic ignition from a 850, straight fit. do think you need the coils too.
Probably cheapr then a Dyna2000, runs well then.
Doesn't run a D2k It's a Dyna S system as there's no CDI on these.
-
2
-
-
As it was.
-
4
-
-
B12 Mk1 forks as it'll run the original speedo cable. Mk2 will not (don't ask)
Upperton 1085 big bore
GS750 oil pump gears
GS750 cams (I think)
ExhaustCraft custom made system (like mine)
This is current state of play after a 2+ year lay up
-
6
-
-
And coat them (along with header bolts etc etc) with copaslip.
The heat will not affect them as it's in a threaded hole & tight as a tight thing.
Will save a huge load of headaches next time round
-
1
-
-
Got the answer elsewhere
Apparently you can turn down the lip on the hub, bin the spring/wire, shim & washer, then fit another fibre in their place. Common with drag/lockup setups so i'm told.
New hub so wasn't gonna do that just yet lol.
-
The spring wire retainer on the clutch basket that holds No1 plate & washers in place?
Efe, but doubt that makes any difference.
-
9 hours ago, Screwriverracing said:
Yep looks like past it's Sale by date, also the little rubber stopper seems to be missing, time for a new one.
cheers SRR
I've seen a "cushion" on the parts fische, but that appears to fit somewhere behind the basket. What are you on about?
-
1
-
-
The play in the hub is minimal, but still there.
The centre is bad when assembled as the movement becomes greater the further away from the steel piece, so from the pressure plate side the movement is quite sloppy!
-
Having taken off the pressure plate so i can fit an extended push piece, once refitted there's a wobble in the plate.
Now i can't say i've ever noticed this in any of the GSX/GS/GSXR clutches i've pulled apart before.
Stripped it apart & noticed (pic) that the steel castle centre has movement, & squeezes out oil when jiggled about. Is this worn beyond repair?
It also has 6 hairline cracks in the M6 mounting holes for the pressure plate mounting.
And while it was off, there's play in the hub itself, so would a new needle bearing sort that too?
Finally on strip, i saw that whoever had it before me had put 2 fibres together in middle of stack & the spare steel he had left was put in last, making steel against steel on the pressure plate!
-
Yup no line up markings, as as you suggested i did the ruler thing.
I also noticed the boots do not sit flush with the head, but stand off about 3-4mm.
Very confusing when you start to push the carbs on, so i lined em up, tightened them there & forced carbs on.
Once on (No4 at least) i tightened that one & worked on No1, that then helped 2-3 go in. Right faff for the sake of some simple markings!
-
No, had a look & no mention of them?
-
So with the markings on them (Made in Japan or spaced dots) I'd assume the MIJ would face outward.
If that's correct, then the letter R or A00 might belong at the top.
Is there an exact position as i've tried several positions but can't seem to get them to line up with the carb bodies properly?
-
In that case, what i did with the Slabby drag bike
-
2
-
-
I just gave my EF triangular plate from the original cooler to @Rsvfletchto make another that would mount a 13 row cooler to.
Pretty straightforward tbh, i'll take some pics when i go in garage later
-
16 minutes ago, Dezza said:
Ask to see a sample of the silver from the powder coater, and if you like it go from there. The last time I had stuff powdercoated 'silver' it looked more like grey primer so I had to give it all a couple of coats of wheel silver on top
Agreed, I had some "chrome" colour powdercoated X7 wheels done & it was just a very shiny grey & nothing like what i expected!
.jpg.4d83cfa4d9e6585446351dcd1bb80f48.jpg)
Oil cooler for 1100efe
in Air Cooled
Posted
I did a full tour of Europe on a Z1000 & only had trouble once stuck in traffic outside Clermont. They don't like standing still for sure!