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Posts posted by CockneyRick
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Also anyone worth their salt would know that vapour blasting works but leaves lots of superfine sand/grit hidden everywhere inside!
Soda blast uses Soda (shocker!) that disolves in water & is a much better option.
See if he has that option
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What about some VM29's?
And what would you pay for an average set?
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Are all the 750F carbs 36's?
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To those who have & haven't followed my dragbike build
I had the original BST34 GSX1100F (tin top) carbs fitted & went posh & sourced/rebuilt a set of BST38's to fit.
However, they were too tall with the plastic tops so ended up putting the originals on.
So my question is, what would be a good upgrade that should fit the 1127 engine in a 750F frame & large Slabby tank?
Are there other larger tin tops etc etc that we're not looking at silly money
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Fuck me, my head hurts!
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On 10/15/2019 at 9:05 PM, bluecatone said:
No mods on the B12 SUMP? I assuming the B12 SUMP hold less oil, is tha not a problem? I'm thinking to use the the B12 sump and headers on a 88 GSX1100F that is going to be a daily ride.
Can't say i noticed, but even if it was, we're hardly talking litres here! Plus i'm running aftermarket head & Engine coolers
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I'd be (and am) happy with a 180/55/17 on my Yoshi & Efe
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On 10/12/2019 at 3:15 PM, Jaydee said:
I haven't seen the taps vacuum outlet to know the bore size. But it wouldn't be rocket science to sleeve one rubber hose in to another if the bore on on the vacuum outlet was much larger than the take off on the carb top or vice-versa.
i reckon there's a difference, but nowhere near enough to sleeve it down
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18 hours ago, Jaydee said:
Yes, just attach a pipe from the vacuum on the tap to one of the carbs top. Job done.
Wouldn't the pipe ID at each end be quite different, or have you sourced the first tapered fuel pipe
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Whilst getting a 6" rim in may be nigh on impossible, even if you did the rubber on it will most likely give you even more issues inc the above!
Not a lot in it, but try a 5.5" instead
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17 minutes ago, wraith said:
to much time enjoying myself when I was a kid instead of doing my school work
What has fish got to do with this :p
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My 2 penneth, less the march of time, more the drive to econimise.
I have no idea, but i'd bet they're all outsourced to somewhere East of India.
Tis why NGK are shite nowadays amongst many other brands
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Had issues too with them on my EFE &GS, just strip it apart & thoroughly clean it. They do wear though so the oil can pass too easily & cause flicker as well
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To RS or not due to cost? Can't understand that, it's 20p FFS!
And KOYO all the way, although most bearings are made everywhere & are absolutely fine if it's a brand name
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62042RS is fine. Suzuki only rubber or metal sealed the outer face as a cost saving, so double seal is even better
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Done a swap on my drag bike (GSX1100F to B12) & AFAIK there's no problem
Only issue i had was the strainer mounts are different to take into account of the deep well moved to one side, so you must swap that too.
And again swapped for same reason as you!
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Hard to come by so i'd say £400 minimum!
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Tatty is an understatement! Least you might be able to buy Autosol in bulk
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Couldn't say, my tanks fine so never needed to find out
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28 minutes ago, Sazbo said:
I have three bikes, a 75 & 79 Yamhahaha and this gs1000, the tank on the GS is so rusted it has hole in it and can’t be used, but I’m having no luck finding anything for it so I’m here for your help.
GS1000 tanks are prone to this. Dunno about over there, but over here it's well worth trying to salvage/fix it
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Why 530?
I've put 520 on my EFE engined EFE & My GS1098 engined GS1000
40mm Mikuni carbs swap
in Oil Cooled
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Given the issues you're facing, why bother?
If you must change em, go for 36's