rodneya
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Posts posted by rodneya
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Degrease the motor well, then dust on some baby powder in the leak area and run the motor. Makes it easier to see where the leak is coming from. If you do need to take it apart, the head will come out with the motor in the frame, but it is tight. Be careful not to scrape the head sealing surface over the studs during removal. I lifted the head and slid in a piece of cardboard between the studs and head. And don't forget to put a piece of wire or something on the cam chain so that it doesn't disappear.
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The 03 swingarm brace will most likely hit the frame. I just trial fitted a SRAD swinger on mine and the brace is hitting the frame and Im pretty sure the 03 is similar dimensions as the SRAD. Allballs website has a bearing finder for headset bearings required for front end swaps.
https://www.extremecreations.com.au/fork-extensions-50mm-75mm make fork extenders instead of stepped yokes. Shipping not to bad from Oz
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Thanks Dezza and say what now!?
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The one on my 83 GSX1100E looks exactly the same as the one on my 1150
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1 hour ago, Spirit said:
So all replies prettty much "Works but no impovement in performance"?
You never answered if it is a Dyna S or 2000.
The S will be pretty much the same as stock.
The 2000 has 5 advance curves and 4 retard curves, a built in rev limiter and cut out switch for something like a quickshifter. And you can set static timing accurately timing with the engine switched off. So Id say better than stock
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Dyna S or Dyna 2000 system?
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Could be a gouge in the mating surface, a piece of old gasket or even dirt in there
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That looks like an ef bottom end with gsx head. Does it have 1075 or 1135 stamped on the front of the block on the flywheel side?
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3 hours ago, Zenerdiode said:
It’s not, erm, it’s not ‘123’ is it?
Well yes it actually is. Fancy that.
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Picked up a dead EFE after it came up on my Facebook marketplace for a good price. Been standing since 05. Seller thought he had melted a piston after fitting a Vance and Hines pipe and pod filters.
Chunks of metal and oil in the pipe and the beat up plug in no 2 cyl tell a different story.
Other than that the bike looks to be in really good shape for standing that long.
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I put new clutch plates, steels and small aluminum spacers behind the spring and it made things better. My basket does not have grooves and there is still some drag and it can be hard to find neutral.
I had it nicely adjusted, but I had to take the motor out to split the cases again and fix a problem and Im having a hard time getting it perfectly adjusted again, so maybe the black magic mumbo jumbo does apply.
A high idle speed does make it much more difficult to find neutral while standing still
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Ive never used a fibre gasket, but just like MLS gaskets Ive always been told install clean and dry.
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Back in the 80's there were some guys that would cut up two Kat wheels on a big lathe and weld it all back together for a wider tire, but after say what now!? wheels became available that became the way to go.
I suppose there were less liability issues back then as well as wheel options.
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5 hours ago, Dezza said:
What exactly is the damage to the efe cases? If taken to the right person, you'd be amazed at what can be fixed.
Front motor mount is missing pieces on one side and the pickup area has been pretty badly smashed an looks like there is a crack somewhere under all he repair putty as it is leaking oil.
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Im looking for new cases for an efe motor with damaged cases, so I have all the internal parts. I found a Katana parts motor nearby.
By crankcase mouths do you mean where the sleeves fit into the cases?
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Are the engine cases and transmissions from an 1100e, 1100 katana and 1150 efe interchangeable?
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850 uses BS32's, so id say its not a switch.
I have a set of 1100e carbs that will need some cleaning if you are interested
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Efe tank rusted out
in Air Cooled
Posted
How bad is the rust in your tank. Pinholes can be closed up quite easily with solder and then some tank liner to finish opp.