rodneya
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Posts posted by rodneya
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Those will be pipe specific as it has to be a really good fit to the rest of the pipe
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1 hour ago, TonyGee said:
yeah i already found them but thanks anyway ET
I have one of those arms and it is the same length as stock. Just more blingy
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Any progress with this? Are you installing new sleeves?
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20 minutes ago, Swiss Toni said:
Geez! Hope it was cheap!
Sold the V&H exhaust for more than I paid for the entire thing, so basically a free bike.
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4 hours ago, TonyGee said:
whats the plan now, rebuild or find another engine ?
Gonna rebuild it with different crank and complete top end I have.
I already have a GSXR front end, SRAD 750 swing arm and Busa wheels waiting to be fitted.
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1 hour ago, coombehouse said:
I was always told 1230cc was the limit on standard efe liners. I guess this confirms it
Yup, and it does not look like the PO got very many miles on the build before it went boom.
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Well, got some more of it apart. Still fighting with the flywheel, but I got the bottom end apart and think I found what happened. The entire liner is basically in the sump.
78mm MTC pistons in std sleeves. Looks like the sleeve cracked at the top lip.
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Cases and block look painted, and the clutch and left cover just clearcoated
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I have not had time to get back at it, but the puller was left on. My garage is almost cold enough to freeze water at the moment.
If I can not get it to move with more heat, I will take the entire crank out and try the freezer thing.
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Trying to get the flywheel off a 1150 motor and it does not want to budge. They usually pop off after tightening the puller and giving it a bit of a whack, but this one is not interested.
How much heat can I use on the taper area without ruining the flywheel?
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If you run a Koso gauge you always have the option of a gps speed signal converter.
https://www.oemcycle.com/Item/product/900561604/noRediR=1/
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That looks like a Kat 1000S wheel from SA or Oz where they came standard with spokes. Is there a part number behind the cush rubbers?
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Best bet would be to contact Chris at Motogp Werks in California. He made the arm. If it was made for the 1000 it should be a straight fit as long as you have the adjuster blocks.
Pic of the
new ones he makes.
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4 hours ago, Lachie04 said:
I have a Dyna 2000 and set it the same as you iirc manual says to set@36-35
Anyhow the second time I set it up on a different tacho found the read revs were doubled not sure what was going on there so ended up taking a feed straight from coil to the tacho which sorted the double rev reading
The Dyna 2000 has two different colour tach takeoff wires for different tach ratios.. The one will read double what the other reads.
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13 minutes ago, slayer61 said:
It's not rocket surgery...
This way works the best. Bolt the bracket to the same side of the fork mount that the caliper was bolted to instead of the outside. That way it sits against a flat machined surface
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It would seem that a lot of people go by what looks right to them. Form over function.
You should ideally set the swing arm at 12 to 13 degrees angle. The apps that run on a smartphone are pretty accurate and are easy to use to check the angle
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The original baskets start to rattle after time. You can get a kit with new springs. rivets and HD backing plate to fix it.
By mark
s on the front, all the baskets I have, have pretty rough machine work on the outside. Maybe post a pic.
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The 1127 manual I have only mentions 13 deg btdc below 1500rpm
For a 1052 motor the timing is
13 deg btdc below 1500rpm and
35 deg btdc above 2350rpm -
3 hours ago, coombehouse said:
I've tried UK spec e5 super & E10 in a variety of bikes, modern & old. Haven't been able to detect any difference whatsoever in the way any of them run. My old turbo Saab however seems to run better on E10!!!
That stuff runs fine. The problem is what it does to your fuel system when it stands for more than a few weeks. Ive bought lawn mowers, snow blowers and 4 different bikes at super discount prices because they would not run from all the green goo in the fuel systems form the previous owners using 10% ethanol fuel.
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Powder coat will stop heat dissipating and keep your engine hotter, but I don't think paint will make much difference. Both silver and black engines are painted or clear coated.
If you're going to paint, get it soda blasted. vapour blast surfaces and paint don't play well together
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Need to put together a motor for my 84 1150 project, and I have two options.
1150 motor with flowed head, Web 168 grind cams and what Im told is a either a 1198 or 1230 top end, or a 83 gsx1100E bottom end with a 1327 Wiseco big block and probably the same 1150 head.
Both motors will need to be rebuilt and the bike probably wont see huge milage each year.
What are opinions on the wiseco block with the flat top pistons? I cant find much online about them.
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37 minutes ago, coombehouse said:
I've never seen stripes on katana tank??
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Ive bought decals from diablo before, as well as from bdesigns http://www.bdesigns.ca/Suzuki_1980s_Road_Decal_Page.htm
Both have a good selection ad are quality.
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Not sure how much Id trust that. Old Suzuki locks are net exactly high security, but around here crackheads can open those type of locks in a second using a bic pen.
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Martin GSX1100
in Air Cooled
Posted
It will probably be easier to find a 1127 oilcooled replacement motor than an 1150 one. But that is a really cool old bike and I would keep the engine you have in it