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rodneya

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Posts posted by rodneya

  1. 10 hours ago, WeirdJimmy said:

    oh, and if theres no interference with the frame, I highly recommend the side pull conversion. You have no idea how much you need it. Until you dont

    1213151547.thumb.jpg.8695771638a81345b258fe6945ccc292.jpg2014-05-18_01-15-54_294.thumb.jpg.69438c94536db578010a5fd998e40dee.jpgFB_IMG_15444863401972.thumb.jpg.c10367a51aaea26520f1965dae3b175e.jpg

    Do the standard motion pro cables still work with the side pull?

  2. 23 minutes ago, Baz1954 said:

    Here is image of internal side of switch + 'O' ring.image.thumb.jpeg.9c286683ecaf905444d55f6656da610a.jpeg

    That is the outside of the switch with the electrical wire running from one side to the other. The spring loaded pin cant be running over those bumps all the timeScreenshot2023-07-11at21-58-28SUZUKIGS100019781979NEUTRALSENSORSWITCHGEARINDICATOROEMeBay.png.1423c9029298701fa2f411bf337eba5f.png

     

    This is a pic of a used one off Eblag and you can clearly see the ring on the switch where the spring loaded contact has been running against the switch.

    Flip it around and you will be good

    • Like 1
  3. 2 hours ago, Baz1954 said:

    Yes guys, I have a New Old Stock switch from Suzuki (Australia),the original had a crack in it. As you point out both bottom images in replies show correct orientation of pickup (5 o'clock) whereas the spring loaded contact on the end of the shift cam is sitting at around 2 o'clock.

    None of it is making any sense: the cam is in neutral, I can shift thru the gears ok. That's why I'm wondering if the cam is not one complete machined item and that the sensor end with the spring loaded contact pin is a press fit and I may have disturbed it somehow to the 2 o'clock position.

    Thank you both for the feedback. 

    The switches in the pictures are showing the side that goes in. The pickup on both pics is at 2 o'clock in both as far as I can see.

  4. I used something similar the these Eblag ones. My front engine mount is an aluminum plate with a hole drilled through Hole drilled through and a aluminum rod bolted on. the aluminum is drilled out so that the metal part at the end of the slider fits inside, and the slider id bolyed to the aluminum rod.kat2.thumb.jpg.f8262c5ff23d9f581954d3f17e4f03ec.jpgScreenshot2023-07-10at14-22-30UniversalMotorcycleFrameSlidersAntiCrashProtectorWhiteForYamahaSuzukieBay.thumb.png.4712764dc5e3870d4309ca6d6c3f3b11.png

  5. I've been struggling with rough idel and low speed running on my Kat with RS36 flatslides.

    I found that the no 3 carb has a 1.3 airjet (#43 on the diagram) and the other carbs have a blank jet in that location.

    According to the Mikuni exploded view all the main air jets should be blank plugs.

    What would the 1.3 air jet be doing in the one carb? Screenshot2023-07-03at13-32-28RSCarbPartsMikunioz.png.b1d9ba2a6d28d5bcf409c78919bbe640.png

     

     

  6. On 6/27/2023 at 10:57 AM, Blacknblue said:

    Have you sat astride it with those bars? They look like a hell of a stretch!

    Footpegs have not been welded on yet, bit it feels similar to my Kat when sitting on it.

  7. Stock bars are pretty high, and most bikes with aftermarket bars are running Renthals or similar. Anybody running clipons  who can comment on comfort. Fitted these to see how they looked and Im still undecided.

    Need a bit of motivation as I have not done much in the last few months.a.thumb.jpg.45fc8d4499049fac09793b0af508e316.jpg

    • Like 1
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