Swirl
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Posts posted by Swirl
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Most of the bits I need now I've sold over the last couple of years, I sold all bandit 12 running gear 3 weeks ago with wavey discs the lot would of been perfect,
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15 minutes ago, Reinhoud said:
Not the pump, the gears.
I've got the gear on the pump if you need one, the gear behind the clutch is harder to come by, not cheap when you buy it new either.
Think I'll probably buy a 750 engine in bits and sell the rest of it
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27 minutes ago, gs7_11 said:
Yes, I should have said that when I said thinner.
A few have 17 inchers fitted by owners as the 120 x 18 looks a bit anaemic! I did that on mine in 2001 so I've kept it that way.
Mine will have modern running gear on, but thanks for the info guys
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Looks great, top job
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I will have to I investigate when I get the engine
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28 minutes ago, Reinhoud said:
A head from a GS1000G is a good option, these bikes have the 34mm CV carbies from factory
Just read this elsewhere a GS1000 big valve head on later motors
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16 minutes ago, Reinhoud said:
A head from a GS1000G is a good option, these bikes have the 34mm CV carbies from factory
I will have look into this, as the engines in bits, so head swapping is not a problem
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All good info, thanks. Waiting for this lockdown to be lifted to go collecting parts
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20 minutes ago, Reinhoud said:
Low comp forged pistons
Ball bearing turbo, I've got a VF20, seems to be good enough.
GSX1100 carbies, GS1000 are slide carbies
GSX1100 clutch basket, you have to take about 7 or 8 mm of to make it fit in a GScrankcase
Use GS750 oil pump gears to get more revs, not sure what width the GS1000 oil pump is, if it's 10mm, there is a 14mm oil pump what fits
I build mechanical oil pumps for turbo feed and drain.
If you go electric scavenge you probably need a stator/dynamo what has more output then the stock one
Welded crank is a must, and don't go over 180hp, it should be alright till about that, if you want more you need stronger rods (I've got 493 Katana)
Twin spark works wonders preventing detonation I noticed, reasonably easy to do yourself if you have a mill available, but you need 4 x 1.5 Ohm coils and Dyna 2000 ignition, with the ignition set at the stock setting till at least 7 psi no detonation
If you keep the stock bore the stock head gasket will do I guess, if you go big bore the Cometic fibre ones will do. Don't try f#ck around with copper ones
Weld second gear of the gearbox
I was told that if you stay below somewhere about 180 crank HP, the internals should be able to handle it
That's ace cheers Reinhoud, first job will be strip the engine, get the crank, gearbox and clutch sorted and go from there I think
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Dont know what year it is though as it's on a Q
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18 minutes ago, gs7_11 said:
The engines are exactly the same, as is almost everything else, on the UK 1979 SN and EN models.
The differences are: fairing, clocks, oil temp sender, paint, rear wheel is thinner on the S, the tank has no badge mounting points.
The 1980 ST has more differences (rearset pegs, shorter silencers) but was not imported into the UK. The US ST had CV carbs like the ET.
The Aussie ST was different again with slightly hotter cams, big slide carbs, different paint job and normal ET clocks.
That's about it.
Got this coming in for a long term project
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14 minutes ago, Paulm said:
GS1000 it is then mate,you wont regret going down the turbo route.
My bank balance might
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17 minutes ago, Blubber said:
I've had a read of that, after getting a bit worried I havent got the skills or access to the machinery Reinhoud has, that's what prompted my post, having chatted with a few of the resident turbo guys over the last 24hrs I'm confident it can be done.
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750 oil pump should help as well as restriction for oil pressure
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17 minutes ago, Arttu said:
I guess that your first decision should be if you want to turbo a GS1000 with a real engine or build a typical mix-up with an oil cooled engine
Latter option is much easier engine wise and probably the result will be better and more reliable. But the first one would be more interesting and respectable, IMO. So your call what you want to achieve.
I don't have any first hand experience about the GS1000 but most of the issues should be the same than with GSX1100 engines. Like you expected the oil pressure is really low due to roller crank bearings. You should be able to boost the pressure by some restrictor arrangement so an electric pump isn't mandatory. Then the crank will need welding to whitstand any abuse at higher power level. Forged pistons are highly recommended. And the clutch will need some beefing up for sure.
Thanks Arttu a big learning curve is needed, but it looks like I'm a glutton for punishment, just bought some NOS GS1000 Wiseco pistons so I think that's my mind made up
air cooled turbo here we go
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14 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
All this discussed multiple times - use search - read the stuff - then ask your questions ! ! !
Yes i'm a miserable old fucker thats fed up to the back teeth sitting indoors not being able to do anything constructive except read the same questions written by newbies who want instant gratification without doing any research - how do you think people did it 20-25 years ago before the internet? We read books / magazines and just built stuff - sometimes badly and sometimes spectacularly good. The info is out there - just do the research!
Rant Over!
ps. Use the Blandit engine - life is hard enough, don't make it worse using a GS!
I have done a search and come up with a few issues like oil pressure on the roller bearing crank, but thanks for your input
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9 minutes ago, clivegto said:
Mk1 busa pistons have 20mm pins mk2 are 18mm.
Looks like GS1000 are 18mm, wonder if the block will take boreing to buse piston size without making the wall to thin, or alternating the crankcase
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Advice from the turbo gods needed, never turbo'd a bike before defo not a air cooled dinosaur, bought a GS1000 frame last night for some reason, on a rather handy Q plate, it's going to be a long term project as I've got a butchered Z1-R build on the go and scratch built 327cui small block chevy trike to finish, so I've got the opportunity to buy a Gs1000 engine with the top end disassembled, question is what's required to turbo a GS1000 engine or do i just throw a B12 in because it's easier. I'm not going for massive HP or boost(queue you will when you've got the turbo bug), will probably be going 1085cc if I can get the pistons, I believe they have a roller bearing crank where the oil pressure is to low for the turbo oil feed, how do I get round that, external electric oil pump? Is it the same principle as building a b12 turbo, forged pistons(low comp ratio) can you use busa pistons or card the wrist pins different, get the block bored, maybe welded crank, external oil pump, gasket set, base gasket to set deck height, ape studs and goodies, oh and 750 internal oil pump, what's best for the first turbo adventure Draw through or blow through, thanks in advance I'm on a steep learning curve.
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Just read through the thread Stirling work I must say
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What's the difference peeps, are the bodywork engines etc interchangeable, will be a special any how so not bother about running gear
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Let's get me popcorn
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Vf750f pan is a nice shape
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Think I would like to see a 916 style seat back there
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PS: I love that bike
gsx cams in gs1000?
in Air Cooled
Posted
Interesting something else for me to explore