Panos

I just weighed them with a cheap scale that is not accurate at all but still could give an idea in comparison between them . 750w without bearings and spacers 5.5kg slingshot without bearings and spacers just a bit heavier maybe 5.6kg ?? hayabusa with bearings and spacers showed around 6.5kg I will weigh them again when i get a proper scale i just used what i could find . Also slingshot one was a bit lightened thanks to my dad

I will do it , just need to find a scale first .

Dog bones look to me as one piece so this must be a p model but i will call the guy and ask him about it , i just hope it's the same cushion lever for both models . Part number for p model is 62600-40830 i couldn't find part number for r/s model . He is asking only 80 euros for it ... I bought a hayabusa swingarm too after i got tired of looking for a 1995 braced for 3 years and when the hayabusa one arrived i finally found the braced one!

I found this linkage but i am not sure if it is the correct one , it's a bit pricey so before i go ahead and buy it can anybody tell if it's the right one ? When looking at parts diagrams online it looks like model p and model r/s (braced ) use the same linkage but i couldn't find part number for r/s model .

On a 1100 frame ? Asking because 1100 has solid shock mount .

Hello everybody , i tried to fit the 95 swingarm to my 1100 92 slingshot frame and i came across some issues . Slingshot linkage width at dogbones bearings is 94mm 750w swingarm dogbone bearings width is 84mm Different bolt diameter too 14mm for slingshot and 12mm for 750w . I also tried to fit a k6 shock i want to use but it was too long for the slingshot linkage . So i guess i need the 750w linkage and dogbones right ? Anybody here done the mod on a 92 1100 slingshot ? i couldn't find much using search engine .

I was thinking of rinsing it with solvent , use heat to dry it and plug the hole with something when it is welding time . I need to talk to my welder i guess .

I want to keep the curved oil cooler because its effective and add a gsxr 1000 v shaped cooler for the head( if i can fit it ) , looks will come second to me as i live in a rather warm country . Seeing the cost of 1100 curved coolers online i think i will give it a shot , it's a shame to junk it if i can save it .

I was hoping i could save my cooler by cutting the cracked piece and welding an AN 8 fitting on it . I don't see why it would leak if done properly , but i have never done this and i have no welding experience . Should i start looking for an oil cooler then ?

If your bandit has a vacuum membrane at the fuel tap like oilcooled gsxr has , check it to see if gas is leaking through that . Thats a lot of leaking though .

I used to have the same set up minus the dynojet kit (GSXR 1992), standard jets and the small inlet rubber . I read here somebody opened the small inlet rubber 3mm in a lathe because he couldnt get the bigger one to work , i dont remember the thread though . Sorry for asking a stupid question but you balanced the carbs right ?

I have seen some youtube videos with fcr carbs on gsx 1400 , looks like a common mod in Japan . My brother just sold his recently these bike are getting rare here .

Well its not aluminum so its source is the gearbox ? I would be worried if i found aluminum .

I have so many questions for this pic and an idea . If a shorter curved cooler , connected with the main one , placed in front and lower of the main cooler can fit with no clearance issues with an usd fork and not reducing turning radius too . Have this double cooler as a head cooler with the lines coming over the cylinder head and a gsxr 1000 vshaped cooler connected with the sump lines instead of the main one , everything nice and tidy right ? Also anybody knows what frame is this in the picture ?

I have a question , why is nobody connecting the second cooler inline with the main one ? I think johny1bump wrote about doing it this way next time or maybe i am wrong .

Hello can i have one too ?

Try settings in the middle ?

I am interested in this topic too for my 1100 1992 forks , also if anybody could suggest someone who can chrome fork tubes .

You didnt cut the fitting off? I think i probably need to cut it because the crack goes all the way to the center . Could you please post a pic of it , if it is possible ?

A few months ago as i removed my oil cooler ( GSXR 1100 N ) one bolt stripped the threads and cracked the fitting of the oil cooler where the oil lines connect . If i had to do it again i would just remove the lines from the sump and leave the ones on the oil cooler connected. Recently i had the idea to cut the old fittings and have AN8 or AN10 fittings welded in place . Anybody here done that before?

I always thought that the rear wheel in the pic had a 190 tire on a 5.5 rim because it looks swoallen to me , am i wrong? Looks nice to me but i have no idea how it turns.

It doesnt seem to be in contact with the pivot , it is seized too and i thought it would be easier to remove it once the pivot is out . I wish i had a 14mm allen key to try to spin the pivot loose but i have a hummer so...

Thanks a lot for replying guys , i will attack the enemy pivot first thing in the morning with fury , anger and brutal force .

I will use a piece of wood between the hummer and the pivot i have allready soaked it in wd 40 , so no messing with the castle nut right? Thanks for replying Jaydee

Hello everyone , i tried to remove my swingarm today but the pivot will not move at all , it has never been removed i guess . My question is do i have to loosen the adjusting locking castle nut (which is seised as well) or should i go ahead and force the pivot out with a hummer? I think the pivot should be able to move once the nut is removed without messing with the castle nut but i thought its better to ask you guys for advise first