Foz

Fboab did it said it was bloody hard steel but do able

Gsxr cams with bandit sprockets fitted, that's how it's been since it went 1216 .Today the ape adjustable sprockets were fitted and dialled in at 105/107 on the bandit sprockets it was something daft like 99.5/114

Spoke to Allens earlier and he said it's either wear in the body, emulsion tubes or there's a gasket between the body of the carbs . After dialling the cams in earlier today , I tightened up the body screws a little and briefly re-fitted them this time I couldn't get them to hang up in the garage as I previously could so possibly the problems solved. I re-fitted the 38's as I need to see the difference with the cams dialled in. You wouldn't believe the settings the bandit sprockets were running at on the gsxr cams

Did you solve it Rob ? Or give up on them

The thing is Rob , it tickover perfectly, will rev cleanly and drop back to tickover perfectly. Ride it up the road and the more revs I use the higher the tickover goes up to. 3k on the road 3k tickover, 5 k and 5k tickover and doesn’t drop back down . It’s like the tickover screw is moving but it’s firm

What were your symptoms Steve ?

Would it wind itself out within 1/2 a mile of use ? I stopped the bike whilst it was doing it and then removed the carbs expecting to see the slides being high but they were at the bottom

My old 38's tickover fine , Rev cleanly, return to idle perfectly. These 36's idle perfectly, balance perfectly, run cleanly then you set off down the road and the tickover increases with my revs , it won't do it blipping the throttle in the garage . So you pull over ,wind the tickover down to 1k , blip the throttle and all is good until you set off again then it all repeats again.

That’s the thing , they seem like s very good set, no movement , no excessive chattering . I’M sure it’s something simple

The slides are aliminium and no movement in the bar. It makes no sense , everything moves as it should

Motion pro push pull throttle , all tension removed ,slides shutting against Spring tension. I thought it may have been engine vacuum holding the slides open hence why I took the slide Spring to its stiffest setting but it's not. I can set the tickover at 1k and within half a mile the tickover has crept upto 5k . I pull on the drive with it doing this,hit the kill switch so I could see the slide position Incase the tickover screw had wound its self in 5 turns but no the slides were shut as they should be.

Any knowledgeable people out there with experience of flatslides ??? I've been running rs38's on my 1216 bandit for a few years now , they work well. I recently bought some rs36's to try , they have the same diameter inlets stubs so fit into the rubbers I've been using with the 38's , they fitted ok, balanced up ok and in the garage revved cleanly. The problem started when I used the bike on the road , the revs hang up constantly in that the bike tickover at 3 k and creeps up to 5k , stop at the side of the road wind the tickover back down to 1k then once on the move it reverts back to 5k. I've changed inlet rubbers, changed the carb clamps so I'm pretty sure there's no air leaks on the inlet side , tensioned the return spring to its stiffest setting to ensure the slides shut . Any suggestions ??

Sounds like the pilot circuit needs a good clean

It's easier without the pump working initially, then tailor when and how much fuel is pumped afterwards. Sometimes pumping less fuel is better as it doesn't drown the engine and cause it to bog

As said the 1100 settings for 36’s is a 130 main jet , i’m going to fit 36’s on my 1216 and will probably start about 132.5 or 135 seeing as my 38’s run one size up on standard at 137.5 instead of the factory 135

I'm out for the time being, got another set of flatslides to pay for

I appreciate it Rob , on a 1216 will an after market ignition give me much in the way of noticeable differences over a standard ignition ?

The heads already had loads of work along with gsxr cams,rs38's , akrapovic exhaust etc

I'm considering fitting a dyna 2000 ignition to my 1216 bandit, what would the advantages be ? Any real world gains to be had over using the standard ignition ? I recently tried an ignition advancer and the bottom end was certainly much crisper however it didn't seem to help power from maybe 4-5/5k upwards .

I may pop up tommorow

As much as I like the look of open bellmouths i’ve heard so many stories of debris getting sucked in and wrecking a motor I thought some sort of filtration would be best

50mm bellmouths with ramair filters over them. As long as they are oiled I've had no issues in the rain either

Disconnecting the oink “ wheelie” wire is a given on a bandit anyway , I was just curious on how 4 degrees of advance would work on a 1216 engine and if anyone had or does use one with a tuned lump

I've always found that they have crispened throttle response and I've tried them on 750's,1100's and 1200's . It's more of a curiosity question than anything , a 1216 bandit isn't going to be much higher in compression than a standard 1100 would have been or am I wrong .

I've fitted an ignition advancer to all the gsxr's and bandits I've owned over the years with good results . Do people still fit them or keep them fitted on Big bored engines or do they remove them due to the increased compression ?