60Greyhound

Just a quick update now my bikes all up and running, for future reference in case anyone else needs it! On my ignitor box the Pink and black/red tacho feed turned out to be to opposit way round to that posted above. For testing purposes the 'pink' terminal had an output of 0.9v

Pingel with adapter plate... not the cheapest but top quality.

Thanks @Lachie04with the info I've got now I should be able to sort it out!

Thanks!

amazing, thank you! good job I didn't just re-pin the 6 block as I thought then!

that would be mega if you could! I've got the proper diagrams so as long as I can make the colours out that will work!

Apologies if there is already a post on this... I promise I have spent a loooonnnggg time using the search on here and Google trying to find out... can anyone provide me with a diagram or a photo of which wire goes to which terminal on the below ignitor box (1990 GSXR) please. I have the schematic for the GSXR and the gsx750 my bike is based so I know I have the correct colours, just nothing identifies which terminal each colour goes to! I think the three coil/ (2 lives, 1 earth) and a direct earth go into the larger plug. Then the two ignition signal wires and tacho feed are in the smaller plug, leaving 1 spare terminal? The larger plug on the GSX unit had the blank spaces in the centre not one side as this is, so my guess would be to move the white and black/yellow across to the centre on this plug? Thanks in advance for any help offered on this!

So it's been relocated approx 40mm back and 20mm higher, it actually sits in corner between the top tube and the webbing.

mine has a gt tank on it, the front mount was moved back and upward slightly which helps the clearance underneath. This pic shows where it sits, if you like I'll get a photo/measurements of the altered mount for you?

exactly... build whatever you like, It's your bike after all!

yeah, stainless has a habit to 'pick-up' if you go in dry.

that looks a pretty comprehensive kit, just make sure you use a bit of copper/ally slip on the bolts when you put them in.

@Gixer1460I'm with you on that, does seem a little odd for a normal sequence... Checking them every 3.5k as well? I've done heads where you have to do them once after Its been through a Full temp cycle (or when hot) but not as part of a regular service!

are you after full caps or just nylon washers? nylon washers are easily available with an eblag search and work really well for bodywork fasteners.

so... are any of the clutch shafts a direct swap for my motor?? I'm starting to think it may be a '91 Reading up on the BST38 carbs it has, they are the 'small hole' type, it says in a thread that the '90 had large drain screws so you could change the jets without dropping the bowls out - mine only has small drains (although I might try and find a set of large hole ones). That's presuming of course they are the original carbs for the engine! When I pull it out to get the frame finished I'll take the rocker cover off and check how the valves are adjusted to be sure!

@dupersuncperfect, thanks for that... much bigger hole that I was expecting too!

ok... 749 on the barrel, that puts it as 90-92, will pull the cover at some point to check if it is shims or screw adjustments on the valve clearances!

I'll have to pull the rocker cover when I get the motor out to confirm just what year it is then... I bought it as an '89!

@DuckndiveI've had a look through and can't find anyrhing regarding swapping shafts between bikes... only how to swap the entire cluster into another bike, and in this case it points out that the shaft would need drilling! I think my motor is actually a '90 - R716 code?

Not sure on that yet... it may be an option. It also may be an option to bore the exising shaft - I'm sure I read on here it has been done. I've spoken to my machinist friend and he's done similar before, just not on MC parts. I need to find out some specs of the hollow shaft (hole size etc.) and if they are just case or through hardened first. Perhaps someone on here can advise if a swap is possible?

nope... but this is.. build thread in the other section

Rode it 2 years like that without issue (and I'm 100kg without gear!)... I've had to change it now though as I've changed the swing-arm and put a normal monoshock/linkage set-up in. it has one from each side of the frame now, still meeting at the centre under the rear of the seat. I think it keeps the rear looking slimmer rather than having the bars up each side

I agree with @Dezzaon this one... it takes while but I'd sit down with a Vernier and pull all the bolts you need to replace, measure and make a list then email a couple of bolt suppliers, at least that way you know exactly what you are getting. It also allows you to make improvements such as using 'flange buttons' for any fairing bolts etc. GWR-fastenersdo coloured stainless if that's your thing... I'm not a fan of alloy bolts at all

@no class... yes, massively! byproduct of working on Motorsport for 20 years! But on the other side details like that make all the difference on a proper build

@Captain Chaos... no fairings on this build