Jelly

There was a problem with the fitment. These rivets waren't in place anymore. I missed it when mounting the Dynojet jets. But when I want to refit I can fit Mikuni's of the same size as there are a couple available in our stock. The 34'ers need to be ultrasonic cleaned, that's a sure thing. I just want to try to see how it runs with other carbs. If it doesn't work, will convert back to the 34'ers and in the mean time I can get them cleaned.

Cheers, those calipers are easy to come by. Going to look for a set of EFE discs. Do you perhaps have some drawings on the adapters you made?

Well, pulled the plugs from the engine, white... As @Rene EFE mentioned, if we did this with a 2-stroke the engine was already far gone. Removed the fuel tank and the fuel filter which is in line. The inner filter bit was loose in the filter which won't help when the engine is requesting petrol via vacuum. The (aftermarket) breather on the tank works, but as the previous builder had a lot of fueling problems with his turbo build I assume the current state of the tank won't help. The 34mm F carbs are quite dirty... But most of the dirt is on the outside. What I did notice is that all the emulsion tubes were a bit loose... As you can see: Which is probably caused by using Dynojet jets instead of Mikuni jets. They're smaller and won't hold the emulsion tube in place (see above pic). This made me think. After I had the bike on the Dyno last year with @bruteforce I swapped the jets from 140 Mikuni to 132 Dynojet (equivalent 125 Mikuni) as the bike was running too rich. We gave it a good run afterwards on the dyno and then I started using it. The engine issues were building up, but I did at least a good 3000km on it. We decided as the carbs are that dirty, and running on separate K&N podfilters as nothing was available when we were building it (with a small timeframe) to change the carbs to one of the sets of 38's (are they?) we had laying around: Changed the inletrubbers, ordered some Ram Air filters which will be mounted with original Slingshot airboxrubbers.

I do have an infrared tempmeter, but as the engine is dismantled now... Not going to build up and measure. This has been something which was there from the beginning. Starting to suspect the carbs more and more...

What are those discs from @busa1300? Looks way better than the original ones.

Setting the needles a bit higher was also what the Dyno man said last year, but I can't remember doing this (I do think we did). Also, bike was sometimes 'sneezing' from it's exhaust, which sounded like a misfire. In my defense, the bike was actually built in 3,5 days last year so the engine was more or less chucked in But what is strange, is that it ran perfectly in the previous owners bike with the same setup. Anyway, report tonight when @Rene EFE and I are going to search for the fault(s).

Pulling carbs apart tomorrow, and going to check the plugs and drain the tank. Previous owner and builder has had several problems with fueling, it might have something to do with the modified tank then? Although the last time I rode it a couple of weeks ago it was smoking like a dutchman... (no pancakes were harmed)

It's running really hot, not only readings from the tempmeter but also heat coming from the engine, higher idling, etc. the meter's just there for the indication. also noticed that when removing the exhaust the middle two pipes were quite white on the inside...

As you might know, I run a Katana (#1) with an 1127F motor in it. There is an oilcooler of a B12 mounted for the nessecary cooling. At first when built last year, the bike was OK and running 90 degrees, in warm weather slightly hotter. But suddenly temperatures went up and I now have developed a cooling problem. Btw, all temps are measured with a simple oil-plug meter, so not accurate but it gives an idea. The first thing noticed was that a part of the Blandit cooler was flattened (strange, as I didn't do it myself, maybe some kind of vandalism when parked somewhere), which means that a part of the cooler doesn't have air flowing through. But I cannot imagine that this would have such effect that the bike now runs 120-140 degrees and in traffic/city even higher. Pulled the sump out today: Looks quite clean, and it seems that the pressure regulators all function as should. The oil coming from the motor didn't have any debris in it and was even not that black (as I only did around 3-4000km with it max). When draining the oilcooler and filter, oil was coming from both in and outlet so there's no blocking there. Does anyone have a clue? Maybe @Rene EFE could insert a photo of the blocked oilcooler but I don't reckon thats an issue too (there is a HEL cooler on standby for replacement, but would rather use that on my ET).

http://www.bikeexif.com/katana-motorcycle With a bit more text. I like it, besides the shortened seat, and the hipster-esk chitchat about it. It is what we do for a living here at OSS for years and years....

Cheers both, going to see what there is laying around and mix and match. The EFE disc option is a good one though.

Yes, standard snowflake wheels, similar to a Kat. Asked Deeds!

Right, the bike was parked in a corner but since I'm going to use it for this years TT trip it needs a brake upgrade. Different master brake cilinder is already a plan, but as I want to retain the original front wheel I'm also open for different discs. What I have to use, is a standard ES brake setup, EFE brakes, slabby brakes, slingshot brakes (but these need to fit the original forks easily). Any options or opinions? @Rene EFE

Very special airbox design it had also, with some oldskool plumbing!

Now I certainly wished I was there...

Stop bullying me!

So one of my bikes is there, but I am not choices choices..

Good find! @Captain Chaos, install the app 'Office Lens' on your phone and you can make really good cutouts of pages. I would like to read the complete article but cannot read the text on some parts...

Hi @Swampy, Earls coolers are indeed a bit deeper, but fit nicely. Here's a picture of the B12 coolers i've fitted now. Still need to figure out some lower support for it though.

Any Rosettes won by one of the bikes?

Looks good @Ash. What hose connectors are you using on that cooler? I've fitted a B12 one as well now, but still using the stock oil lines which are actually a bit too short.

The fork modifications look really interesting. I have a set of 35mm forks mounted to a bike now, and have a set of 37mm forks (1100) for spare, which I could build as new. Where did you get the YSS Cartridge emulators?

Fixed the pictures Ash, it's Photobucket, when you copy the URL it somehow puts ~original behind the .jpg extension which causes the images not to display. Corrected it for you.

Cheers, useful info here.

I need to know what is the max width of an oilcooler which can be fitted between a Katana fairing. Can anyone measure or know this?