billd

No problem

Paulm, have you got enough bikes for the stand now? If not I can bring my GSXR00 track bike that's painted like the TR750. It's a bit new as a 2001 but would make up the numbers if required. Let me know.

Great thread!

The valve can be stuck in place by dried out carbon formation and inactivity when the motor has not been running for a while. With respect to the piston slapping the valve closed the valve may only be stuck .020 open and the piston would not touch it yet it is enough to cause lose of compression. I'm not saying this is the case but is a possibility and very easy to check, simply remove the valve cover and check the valve clearances. If one valve is stuck open slightly the clearance will be excessive.

Pull the valve cover off and just make sure there is not a valve hung up on #1 cylinder. If there is this will cause low compression. A valve can stick open simply from sitting as your bike has. Let us know how you proceed.

banoffee, what year is your bike please and is it a Japanese import or a UK market bike? Great having people around to learn from!

Bloody glad I don't need one!!!

My CDI part number is 32900-27AOO How does that compare to yours and more importantly how does it compare to a 198five UK market GSXR70F CDI #. If anyone one can respond it would be appreciated. The CDI unit also has a large "H" on its right hand side.

What was in the exhaust headers that acted as a restrict or that you removed? Look forward to getting the CDI part number, I will post mine here tomorrow as well. I've also just modified my accelerator pump Pistons to allow full stroke rather than just 1.5 mm as detailed under the post "Is my rod to long". It was suggested this also may have been a Japanese import method of restricting power but not confirmed.

What is the part number on your CDI please as I have an 85 GSXR750 that is an import and I would like to check it. I read some place that the only restrictions on the early GSXR's was an exhaust restrictor at the cylinder head area that was easily removed. Can someone confirm or comment on this please.

is all about £££££ and what the customer will pay

In a past life I was an electrician so I will try. First off it may no be this as I said a bit of a long shot. . With age the rubber boot starts to break down, it's dielectric strength weakens due to the constant high voltage stress it is under and its close proxsimitey to the chassis ground, the cylinder head. When I discovered it on a 916 Ducati I noticed a thin blue line on the side of the boot on closer inspection it was a crack in the boot and the spark for that cylinder would iradically miss fire. In that case at low RPM and clear up at higher RPM. I realize if you have adjusted or worked on the carbs one would expect that to be the root cause but age or unplugging and handling the spark plug caps or a combination of both could also be the cause. Taping the plug boot adds to its dielectric strength once more, does not allow the easier path to earth rather than the air gap at the spark plug..............sorry to be so long winded about it but .......

This may not be a carb problem at all. It is possible that it's a tracking high tension lead on the plug boot. I've had this happen to me, drove me nuts till I found it. I admit this is a bit of a long shot but dead easy to eliminate the possability. Simple wrap each plug boot with one layer of electrical tape in the area that slides down into the head to the plug. Test ride the bike and see if the problem still exsists. Good luck.

What's odd I tried turning mine around and they would not fit but they can be bentand I suspect it I tweaked them they would fit the other way round. I is a great place to have people willingly help each other out. I do appreciate all your comments.

Your bike looks great! Thanks for your offer of help may have the odd question for you in the future. Have you done much engine work to yours? If so what supplier did you mainly use use?...……………………..I quess the future is now!

Sorted out properly now. It looks a very simple thing but if done wrongly, as I had done, the problem becomes a significant one when the motor is re fit back into the frame. Thanks again boys!

Thanks for your replies, clearly mine is wrong will sort out this morning.

I'm putting the original airbox back on my bike but am missing the rear bracket that goes from the airbox to the frame. If anyone has one their not usuing or can measure theirs up and supply a drawing of same I'll make one. Have attached a picture or two. It's the one missing on the left end to frame. Thanks gents!

As per your request pictures that show what holds the front portion of the fairing on. My bike is 1 1985. There are three bolts that attach the front fairing to the bike -two Allan bolts attach the top fairing stay to just behind the steering stem onto what also acts as the petrol tank front support stay -one Phillips screw from the bottom secures the fairing to the headlight assembly bracket and that's it The rest of the fairing attaches to the front fairing via three screws on each side. Hope this is what you were after, if you want more photos I've got plenty and happy to share.

Can see all three items in this picture

Don't have 50 posts yet so can't see for sale / wanted sections

A set of small after market indicators, pod air filters and a complete Vance and Hinds exhaust system if your interested

Will mount the front fairing on the bare frame tomorrow and take a picture. It should show up really well as all other equipment is removed. Will post once I've got it

One picture I posted shows the lock mechanism under the seat so I suspect its the other end or the key tumbler on the left side just under the bottom edge of the fairing you want a picture of. The bike is dismantled in the shed, tomorrow I will remount it and take a picture and post it here for you .