Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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Blimey - those ports have REALLY small drillings! I know pressure doesnt really care but I've always used a 'reasonable' bore pipe to WG actuator.
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I can't see clearly in you pic but has the 'controller' got just two ports or three ie In & Out (+ an exhaust) ?
If its two port, i'm guessing its a restrictive operation type so restricts boost getting to the valve which would mean gate never opens or only at super boost.
If its a three port, and if you wind the valve totally closed, you should only get spring pressure boost, fully open and its max boost.
Use with a blow through - you only exhaust 'air' - no flammable mixture.
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Is the boost control mechanical ie. manual valve or electronic via a solenoid?
Bear in mind any boosted air will be a combustible mixture so care where it is vented to!
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6 hours ago, Duckndive said:
diagram of set up would help
you need external wastegate
but you normally add positive pressure on top of the spring so if you have a 7lb spring and add 7lb to top of spring it will take 14lb to open the gate "in theory"
obviously you need to set it up with a gauge on bench 1st using a regulated air supply
you also need a solenoid to enable either setting
stage 1 = 7psi boost "no pressure on top spring"
stage 2 = 14psi boost "pressure on top spring"
It can work the other way where the controller solenoid is bleeding off boost pressure from WG line so wastegate doesn't open, so giving increasing boost. Clive's method needs a pressurised air source in excess of total boost and spring pressure - normally an air shifter cylinder or small co2 / nitrous cylinder will suffice. Boost control is bloody tricky and an absolute art in SSB racing!
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Pic says a lot (maybe) - Bike thrown down the road and damaged / wiped out the clutch cover / mechanism and matey chucked whatever cover came to hand to tart it up for sale, yeah problem with clutch, I think its sticky plates, not had time to fix it, blah, blah, blah! Fibres look worn, but not worn out - so re-assemble with correct bits and i'm sure it'll work fine! (Probably why its got 1100 footrests / controls on !)
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Something odd going on as there is a 4 spring pressure plate and a 6 spring one! Obviously can't mix and match those without correct hub! The long / short rack thing seems clear to me as the operating shaft is in a different place in space with different covers so needs a different length rack for the teeth to mesh. Its likely that with the wrong parts the teth aren't meshed so won't work the clutch. If there is a spare plate, its a strong possibility that the assembly has been thrown together and needs a coat of looking at whilst checking a parts fiche to get correct number of steels & fibres!
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Yes!
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For info, and for what its worth, the big engine of mine uses -6 ptfe lined hose, x8 injectors, in top rail, looped at end into lower rail with FPR at other end and return to tank. Lower spec Bosch pump ie. NOT 044 ( I don't like the current draw with them ) Plenty enough fuel for 350+hp although my steel rails may have slightly bigger bore.
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16 hours ago, Captain Chaos said:
the 750 J/K takes 4,5l of engine oil. 4,8l with filter change.
I thought that - as do the 1100's! Basically, if its not in the middle of the glass - its too low!
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Nice - how about making the flat section under the rail a little thicker and have a clamp over (like a handlebar clamp), one between cyl 1 & 2 and one between 3 & 4 ?
Couple of c/sunk M6 cap heads per clamp - Easy to remove rail and well clamped / held if secured to plenum?
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Whilst these are your bikes - your trainset type deals, it makes me smile when asking for a 'nice torquey road bike engine', then proceed to outline a request for a 40% HP gain! Generally performance items are geared towards HP not torque (although they are linked). Airflow, intake efficiency and cylinder filling is where you improve torque, so a modest carb increase, good porting but retaining std. valves or modest larger intake and maybe a cam with better lift but not lengthened duration. An exhaust of 4-2-1 configuration with long primaries is usually better for torque. Don't go chasing RPM - its not important and can lead to more problems!
The 1085 is a good base for a lugger - cranks ok at sub 100hp level - its when they get over revved, problems occur. If the money is available then indexing and welding the crank is no bad thing but brings nothing really if rpm's controlled. Suzuki built a good engine, you just need to polish the edges a bit IMO!
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2Ah - I didn't know you could get something so small! I'd be wary - twin 55w lamps + tail & brake lights is about 140w, so @ nominal 13.2v = 10.6A, flat battery in less than approx 10mins. Add in ign., fuel pump and other assorted electricity - hmmm!
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Carb'd turbo bikes were around at least 20 years before injection started to be widely adopted - my 1st was an S&S carb'd suck through in late 80's / early 90's.
No more electrons than a normal NA bike!
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I've got steel buckets and fuel rail - came from Jenvey at 14mm and as far as I know, they don't do any other. I've never heard of decreasing size due to boost!
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Stainless - good choice especially if you weld it better! Plus it polishes brilliantly. Regarding the injector cup question - how about drilling the fuel rail to take the cup od. Just press in and weld tube to the cup chamfer - a stubby bit inside the tube won't matter with 3 bar fuel pressure. I do envy your engineering skills as I have the toys but not the skills experience!
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Whilst fitting bigger cams to a std size engine can be a + / - thing, the proposed engine is 20% larger with bigger valves for increased breathing. Giving it a std cam would be like fitting it with 30mm choke carbs - it'll be REALLY torquey but a bit flat at the top when compared to its smaller bore brothers imo. A small hop up in cam spec would be no bad thing - better torque, 160+ hp and completely streetable (with other suitable components obviously)
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34 minutes ago, clivegto said:
Mount below the sump at the back right I have the none return value inline before the pump like most people have.
Why before pump? Most check valves have a crack pressure which holds oil back before pump but if placed after the pump will easily overcome the resistance & stop any backflow!
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Why use a 'higher' pressure pump? It doesn't need to build pressure - just flow a volume of 'waste' oil discharge. Although the pump may draw oil vertically, every time it empties the sump can it has to start again and the can vent won't help in that respect. Personally, I'd mount the pump down low / equal height to sump can so oil flow by gravity is constant and if you have a check valve, fit it AFTER the pump so pumped oil won't flow backwards after pump shut off. Sorry if reply seems naive - I have a crank driven mechanical pump so these electrical ones are alien to me LOL!
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If I may ask . . . . why? for what reason? This was an often discussed topic on the old 200mph.org forum.
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You're not the 1st or will be the last, to get caught out by the good / duff battery situation!
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@Suzukian - you are posting solutions to problems that don't exist here - its an oilcooled engine with a unit alternator / regulator / rectifier.
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1 hour ago, Traz1132 said:
The rubber T price is very stubby either end so would struggle to get a clamp on
Its between the carb bodies which are secured to the rack - the tee can't go anywhere!
And a zip tie on the hose barb will clamp enough on the inlet hose.
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An oval is just a squashed circle - a correctly sized circularly holed filter will fit an oval correctly and won't obscure the cresent shaped vent.
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Technically yes but as those ports used to balance the carbs everything would require disconnection during that work!
Don't take my words as gospel as I use FI so don't worry about pitots and such like! A knowledgeable adult will either confirm or blow me outta the pond!
GS1000 engine tuning questions
in Air Cooled
Posted
No it won't be! Any work on these old cranks will effectively be a 'race prep' but not to the N'th degree but as said if the revs can be controlled, a std crank could survive!