Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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Whatever the workshop manual states or maybe +0.001" greater. Ring gap is more critical and that is what your figure refers to - if you honed the cylinder to 0.015 - 0.018", the piston would be like a cock in a sock . . . . . . ie LOOSE! If you are using aftermarket pistons, the manufr. will usually state clearence required which could be less than stock if low expansion alloy's have been used.
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Don't bother with 'bling' as you'll generally never see it again after fitting - just get a known piece, fit and forget. At the power levels you are looking for, I'd fit a 12mm M6 screw and locknut on 3 of the arms and try it - unlikely you'll need all 6 but its possible + start with fresh Suzuki fibres and it should be mint!
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I remember Sean @ BigCC had a Dom Trickett EFE head done with equal sized inlet and exhaust valves, fully ported both sides as he figured getting the exhaust out was maybe more important whilst the intake was forced in. As far as I know it lasted barely a few dyno pulls as it just didn't work so got off'd into the pile of failed experiments LOL! Conversely, a big valve will pay off if running big boost if only to minimise ANY potential airflow restriction.
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5 hours ago, Upshotknothole said:
Those look like DJ needles, they should be titanium. Not sure if DJ ever did a kit for the 40mm carbs, since we didn't get them in the states. Factory Pro I think made jet kits for them if you should ever decide to use them.
Yes they did, here is the reference - E3336.002 - Euro models only (for obvious reasons) I'm not sure they are Ti - more like hard anodised aluminium. A Ti made needle would not wear like the one shown. Compare to the steel OEM which has virtually no wear and Ti is tougher than steel for abrasion wear!
13 hours ago, caferacer175 said:OK, so you think the length and shapes of needles are right??
First needle on pic is original (from another gsxr 1100 89), second needle ˇoriginalˇ dynojet when I bought bike and the rest needles are from new dynojet kit.
Dunno what that 2nd needle is from but it ain't for a GSXR1100 K / L ! The other 4 are deffo for 36mm CV's on a GSXR1100 K/L 1127cc.
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1 hour ago, Captain Chaos said:
EU 1991 gsxr1100 has 40mm carbs
He's not wrong and can't tell from the pic if 40s are fitted or not. If they are. . . . well there's your problem LOL
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1 hour ago, Duckndive said:
Given all the probs folk seem to have with the Hydraulic Operation
I'm thankful I've always used cable operation on oil boilers
I've never had a problem, even swapping diaphragm to spring and spring with lock-ups - fill. bleed, work! Only thing I needed to do with clutch swap is add a 6mm ball bearing over the push rod - couldn't be arsed to make a new one as it just worked!
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Those look like the ones I used - 1186 bore, 4-2-1 V&H Supersport Dual pods 136 & 138 MJ - set-up on dyno 144 rwhp. Have you done the whole conversion inc the slide holes? Mine worked fine from the get-go, just dyno'd to fine tune!
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It was 30+ years ago - maybe they put their sensible head on and changed the threads?
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1 hour ago, gorbys said:
What do you mean? I have dj mains in my 1100 with the stock tubes.
Mikuni's being Japanese have metric threads, Dynojet being American will have Imperial / peculiar threads - draw your own conclusions! Tried it once and jet tightened up before fully done up so stuck with stock in stock and DJ with DJ!
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DJ Mains won't fit in Mikuni Emulsion tubes. Most steel aftermarket pipes with chrome tubes will blue at first bend from head. And the Mains are flowing fuel up the emulsion tubes that is metered by the needle which never completely leaves the tube, so to say they are separate is incorrect.
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Google is your friend . . . . . . . eventually !
Note this is for use with 40mm carbs - thats why the MJ sizes are so massive! I used a kit for the K & L (36mm carbs) on a 1186cc bored engine and only needed 136/138 DJ mains ! The air flow through the 40's is just too slow hence why you need massive MJ's!
Its annoying that pdf's aren't allowed as attachments ! ! !
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Not really - its only really open at idle and low speed and the whole inlet from air filter through turbo to plenum will be at atmospheric pressure once valve has opened - plenty air for normal NA operation. Plus its unfiltered air so not good in dirty climates !
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4 hours ago, latheboy said:
its already potentially "breathing" through the bov at idle.
As it should be - any vacuum present should be sufficient to open the valve - which means any time pre boost.
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Yeah I would just to be sure!
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You can reuse as they will wear in to the new bores but if close to lower tolerance there is the chance that when worn a bit they'll be out of spec?
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27 minutes ago, badger said:
There is another on inside the plastic housing post pump and they're not replaceable and 350 odd quid!
I thought there was another unserviceable one - how daft is that!
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Well that's an improvement - actual replacements and a bit cheaper than Suzuki San charges - (this one from a GSXR1000 K1 2001)
STRAINER - (15420-24FB0) - £47.23 each -
So do GSXR 1100 K L M & N - so whats the issue? (can't say for G H & J - never been into one! )
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In that case i'd guess you maybe more 'sensitive' to a querk of the design ie. 'they all do it' but no one really notices, or its just a combination of elements that end up at your Right Hand ! ! ! A change of grip material may help?
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In-Tank pre pump filters!
You need them to protect the pump but they are usually tiny micron level filtration and once blocked its 'good nite Vienna'
They can't be cleaned to any great degree or return to useful service and from what i've seen / experienced with others - they aren't a servicable part so whole assembly needs replacing . . . . . . . who'd have thought a WHOLE pump assembly would be a service item, designed for failure!
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If it was tap on tank, I would have thought you'd feel it through your knees as well? Is the vibe constant or more / less at certain speeds or revs? Maybe wheel or other rotating pieces balance?
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3 hours ago, Airhead-emmy said:
Hi All,
Have inherited an old GSX550 in parts from my father, which I am going to fix up and restore, only issue is that he hasn't heard the engine running for about 10-12 years.
Ideally I want to know the engine is good before I spend the time getting it all fixed up (Repainting everything, remaking a wiring harness as one at the moment is shagged, and fabricating the frame etc to make it into a bit more of a racer.)
I've taken the side off the engine block, and rotated it, and can feel / hear it compressing... But Ideally I wanted to make sure that 'trys to start' before I put all this time in.
My question is - What's the absolute bare bones I need wired up so I can hear it trying to turn over / seeing it spark?
Bonus points for any back of the fag packet drawing anyone could do
Thanks.
If you search you'll find this somewhere in the vault . . . . . . leave off anything connected to lights and horn and bingo!
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Try it and see if it works for you? Are bars std or aftermarket?
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White fluffy alloy is not a good look!
Turbo plumbing for a simpleton
in Forced Induction
Posted
Most people would just be happy to shoot for between 10 - 12 thou. As regards that combination - all bets are off, and I don't want to know, how, why, when or where!