Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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I don't think any fuel pipe these days is immune to attack from 'E' rated fuels! Best to treat whatever you use as a service interval item and replace it annually or at worse bi-yearly! Modern EFI stuff all uses that hard plastic which seems to cope although I bet that becomes embrittled after a few years!
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I guess you 'could' do that, although the weld would be softer than the original cam - if it was steel !
Most cams will be / are chilled cast iron which precludes welding altogether hence why they get ground 'undersize' to increase lift and the grinder avoids the lobe tip to preserve the hardest point. Cams with worn lobes are usually scrap as uneconomic to recover.
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11 hours ago, Villeboi said:
Does these camshaft measurements sound right at all?
My repair manual says that intake should be 34,650-34,690mm and exhaust should be 34,360-34,400mm or 34,650-34,690mm depending on the model year ( I don't know what year the engine is). The cam lobes also looks to be not symmetrical but is that normal?
I'm thinking might these be some reground cams already because these have these self made slotted cam sprockets also?
If the 'stock' sizes are 34.xxx, a re-ground cam CANNOT be larger, its impossible! Regrinding takes metal away from the base circle to increase the overall effective lift but it can't be more than a stock ht. lobe unless you start with an unground blank forging - termed a billet cam. Dialling in cams using slotted sprockets can be done using stock cams, just to vary the characteristics of the engine, swinging timing around can move the power up or down the rev range - to a degree - so slotted sprockets don't necessarily denote 'special' cams!
Common sense says if you are having cams repaired (rather than replacing with s/hand items as a cheaper option) why return to stock ? A degree of lift increase would be expected as normal, the cost is likely to be cheaper as i'm sure most cam grinders are unlikely to have stock profiles on hand because no one asks for them so will have to create one at your cost!
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1 hour ago, jonny1bump said:
Ian also depends on ignition system too, ie on ignitech im feeding each one with a positive daisy chained from power relay, and trigger side goes to ignitech for each coil.
I'd have imagined your M ignition efi system to be quite fancy not stock style pictured ?
I'm using a Dyna2000i presently and I know they just about manage 2.0 ohm per output so 1.2 ohm cop's done parallel would get the smoke out! The M8 Motec could do full sequential ign. but needed a 4 channel ign. amp. I'm thinking about a Micro squirt Mini pro which will do full seq. everything & is more sophisticated than the m8 and can drive cop's directly (I think)
Ah the joys of carbs and Dyna's again!
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Bugger ! I got it wrong - ah well new pins coming and I can get the wires sheathed neatly this time!
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Hi, I did a search which was a waste of time as search function 'finds' threads containing any word in a question not limited to actual words! Anyway i'm putting some GSXR1000 stick coils on my GSXR1100M and I know i've seen a diagram of the wiring on OSS somewhere but can't find it! I've wired up a break-out short loom but i'm doubting how i've done it. Without putting my multi meter on it, I think ive paralleled the coils instead of in-series - so a diagram would be good to check! 4 More plugs on order, just in case!
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19 hours ago, Jaydee said:
They aren't really o-rings. They are thin washers impregnated in to an o-ring. It's the steel washer that gives the o-ring its integrity.
Normal style 100% rubber o-rings are not suited in any way to this application.
Referring to the 6 head gasket o-rings, not the 4 rubber o-ring on the oil drain tubes.
Except its the drain tubes that are the problem! Pretty most all gaskets and o-rings from pattern part gasket kits can be used in a build but certain ones like these, then OEM are best, but you only find out after the pattern ones fail so moral is use OEM kit and (generally) do it once.
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14 hours ago, TonyGee said:
did you do a compression test to confirm it was rings ?
Which is not ideal for that diagnosis - only a leak down can point to rings . . . . . . . or valves for definitive answer!
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I like original NOS products - have used New and S/Hand kits - only downside with S/H is you'll need to source some new plastic hoses and ferrules unless you position everything as previously installed. Whilst the Wizards of NOS stuff is supposed to be excellent / best in the world (if you believe Trevor's self promotion) some of his stuff is good. Really Nitrous isn't for road bike use - a few hits and its gone, even for a dragbike you start searching the pits for refills after half a dozen passes. As its a bit 'old tech' these days i'd guess buying new would be best option . . . . . . dry hit kits for EFI bikes work well - if that flavour floats yer boat!
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So you have a dead cylinder and why do you suspect piston rings? What fault diagnosis have you done to confirm? Honestly rings is pretty much the last resort for most faults, in fact I've only replaced rings once due to smoke on start up, caused by previous owner never actually running the engine in - baby'd it everywhere for 2 years so bores glazed over!
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That's cheap for four - normally that would be each!
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I'm not big on what these airboxes are supposed to look like other than the CSML diagram but the top chamber looks like it should be a sealed box whereas yours is open ie. you can see the inlet ram pipes. This would make sense if the chrome end caps aren't sealed as air needs to bypass these to get to the lower chamber where filter is, then through filter into the sealed upper chamber. It looks like its not filtering anything presently!
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Hate to say but it looks like a severe case of bodgery as that looks nothing like a Suzuki Filter ! ! ! See here - https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs850g-e01-e02-e04-e17-e18-e21-e22-e24-e25-e26-e34-e39_model13499/partslist/FIG-12.html I could be wrong but with all the silicone I don't think so!
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^ ^ ^ This - even drag racers who use LOADS of clutch plates use genuine stock.
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A 350cc injector will provide sufficient fuel to support just shy of 70hp @ 3 bar fuel pressure ( I assume that is @ 100% duty cycle) 80% max DC would put you at your ballpark figure. BUT as everyone who builds one of these things knows, 'Boost is addictive' and that boost is good, so more is better! I'd rather run a smaller injector nearer its capacity and swap out for more than use an overly large one at lower duty cycles most of the time - but thats just me!
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Only you can tell how much has gone through the engine but dropping the oil would deffo be 1st thing, new filter obvs. and then sump off is good precaution. If worried about fines getting places, then a fill with diesel and barring it over by hand to wash out debris before new oil & filter - it's a bit like fuel contaminated oil procedure.
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It only has pressurised oil when running other times it drains to sump - side picture.
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Gotcha ! Plenty of draw through plenums through the years but an injected install won't suffer the fuel distribution problems they have. I'd try to blow the air in between 2&3, with taper to 1&4 inlets and include radiused entries to inlets - smooth airflow is cheap horsepower!
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Unless its terminology - forget using a 'small plenum / manifold'. All you need is buy some extruded aluminium fuel rail, drill it for the injector o ringed inlets, and tap either end for fuel inlet from FPR and outlet fuel return to tank. KISS - keep it simple stupid! LOL! 440cc sound large for a 800cc bike so I'd check that before using that number to generate initial fuel map.
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You only need another 4 posts and you can sell away happily in correct section !
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A $60 Cosmetic MLS is cheaper than any top end rebuild. The gasket may not fail with low boost but the oil leaks will piss you off big time!
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Find a dyno - go there - get it sorted! Or std engine + std carbs = std jetting . . . . . then use dyno to dial in correctly!
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3 hours ago, Upshotknothole said:
I got a cheap one from the same place, threads needed a little cleaning with a file, but it was cheap and works well enough for the rare occasions I need it.
Allan Millyard made his own from a bit of tube and an old speedo cable plus some inginuity - not saying he's cheap or anyfing !
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Its not all about frontal area! A thicker core will provide better cooling if face area equal - its why aftermarket coolers can be 'smaller' due to being thicker!
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Tygon fuel hose
in Air Cooled
Posted
LOL's - unless you run a turbo, ain't needed . . . . . . for us at least unless you've got an 'E Type' for giggles!