Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Gixer1460

  1. Whole range AFR can't be fixed by changing the MJ alone! Both the pilots and the needles will need attention IMO. re the plumbing, I'd have 1 tee off the main line then split that with another tee to feed each pair of carbs - seems would be more equalised to me?

  2. 2 hours ago, Reinhoud said:

    Start with 30% bigger jets

    Not really helpful - which ones? Pilot? Air? Needle? Main? This is why jet kits were developed - they done the leg work so they just work more or less from the off!

  3. Wtf is a 'space cylinder' ?  If you've rebuilt the slave  and replaced the line, I'd say you've still got air in there! If the slave piston is pushed all the way in, its real difficult to bleed air out and get fluid in, so its better to start with it about half in with some fluid behind it then connect to the line and master. You won't know if the clutch is dicky until the operating mechanism is working!

  4. Really not advised unless you put a proper jet kit in them - CV carbs mostly don't like the disturbed / unrestricted airflow these give so the jet kit has to mask this and fuel around it. Personally I like Dynojet kits but others are available - and its not 'just a single jet' so DIY solutions are rarely easy / satisfactory.

  5. Never had any dealings with the guy, nor would I ever want too, but this is symptomatic of lots of 'small business start-ups' - they are not prepared to put in the initial capital to produce product to cover overheads and sink any profit back into the business over and over until they become self sustaining - only then should the profits produce a dividend to owner as reward for the hard work / slog to get to that position. I know of one shop that does the 'Rob Peter to pay Paul' business model and has done for as long as i've known it, only difference is they don't shaft the customers and will / do deliver - eventually! Its a bloody hard world currently for the little guys but Martek or whatever they are called now aren't helping themselves (or rather they are but not in a good way!)

    • Like 4
  6. 59 minutes ago, justin said:

    Grab a multimeter and check for parasitic draw. Easy enough, check you tube as easy to follow. Basically, you disconnect neg from battery. Then link back to battery using multimeter. If you have parasitic draw pull fuses until it stops and then check that circuit in detail. Poor connectors, chaffed wires, etc. 

    This would be my suggestion - batteries that go flat are either due to something being left on (unlikely as most things are ign. key switched) or something is energised via damage in the loom or in a device - a parasitic draw. But to kill a new battery overnight is a pretty big draw ie. 6Ahr battery over 12hrs is 0.5A / 500 mA draw.

    • Like 1
  7. 2 hours ago, Wee Man said:

     Yonks ago I used an old drinking bottle for catch can.

    A Budweiser (or similar beer varieties) can used to be std. fitment at the Bulldog Bash - no catch can, no racing! Not that they were hard to find ! Wedged into a gap or held with a single zip tie - them were the days!

    • Like 2
  8. As APE is an aftermarket seller of 'mainly' race orientated pieces it would be reasonable to assume any 'similar' part may need honing for fit and maybe adjustment in the valve seal area - but saying that if the outer and inner bores suit the head & valves I can't imagine any reason not to use (usual caveats apply) The GS was just a slightly less complicated variation of the Zed motor after all!

    • Like 1
  9. Please DO NOT blindly bore to spec's - manufacturer or internet! Give the pistons to the person / company doing the boring so they can bore and hone each bore to suit each piston - have them numbered to match corresponding bore so they don't get mixed up. A nominal 0.002 - 0.003" clearance is usual. If the boring outfit is good, all their measuring tools will be temp controlled to ensure accuracy, they will also want to know the application as racing & HP intensive uses need slacker size, whilst a quiet & long life road engine is better with tighter end of tolerances.

    • Like 6
  10. On 5/5/2024 at 4:58 PM, Upshotknothole said:

     Interested in more top end, the RS38s already make it boring to ride around town legally. 

    If that's the case why do you want more 'top end' - just where you can't use it? Bar Room HP is great - but Stoplight to Stoplight accel bottom end is FAR more useful! A 1216 kit will benefit all through the range.

  11. A plastic bottle is fine as long as you remember to empty it occasionally - its embarrassing when it pukes over LOL! 

    Oil gets blown out due to pressurisation, so just connecting the hose back to the crankcase won't work! Connecting the hose to a can with drain back can work as long as the can is separately vented itself. Sometimes the blown out oil is milky due to condensation and some peeps don't like putting it back into the engine although if its removed it will return naturally anyway unless you run the crankcases under vacuum constantly!

    • Like 1
  12. Thanks Dave - that helps and looks logical. The shock movement is tiny though - maybe 20-25mm? - seems less than optimal but if it works, it works. The orientation of the levers and links on yours is similar but completely different to the OP question picture - in that one, the link / arm relationship certainly isn't parallel and more divergent hence my question!

  13. 9.5v is an issue - should be 12v or battery voltage! If you've got voltage drop its usually high resistance somewhere - either bad connection / corroded connection / bad earth. Usual indicator circuit is battery+ to fuse, fuse to relay, relay to ind. switch, ind switch to bulbs, bulbs to ground. So + volts are only required between battery and relay, so that's where i'd be looking first.

    • Like 1
  14. Those dogs are Donald Ducked for sure. Sharp square edges are req'd for positive engagement & retention. Even better is an undercut as later gears got.

    • Like 1
  15. 15 hours ago, Ragerover said:



    Can you or anyone explain how that shock linkage works because I can't! - whichever way the arm moves, the shock doesn't ! ! !  Confused!

    • Like 1
  16. Can't think of any reason to block a jet within a carb - turbo or otherwise . . . . . a guy in his shed is unlikely to know more than the Mikuni knowledge vault when it comes to carb jetting ie. if its there, its there for a reason.

  17. 13 hours ago, andyroach said:

    Did the Marvel (Which in the UK is a powdered milk. I'm assuming it's something else in the USA)cure it? 

    I suspect it's 'Marvel Mystery Oil' - widely used in the colonies to fix everything LOL's

  18. 1 hour ago, TxGsRider said:

    32900-17E201 is listed as an igniter Unit 88-91 gsxr 750 California Only per Partzilla

    That would explain why it wasn't 'visible' at UK or European sources! Even so, it should be 'full power' unless the emission restrictions extend into the CDI's as well? This is really getting strange as its acting like the Jap market bikes with restriction based on speed but 86 mph is too low, they are restricted to 112mph I believe?, all done within the speedo - needle passes sensor and ignition cut occurs.  This bitsa is turning into an enigma!

  • Create New...