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Gixer1460

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Posts posted by Gixer1460

  1. 42 minutes ago, HWB said:

    Isnt that designed for water cooling ?

    Its an oil cooler off a water cooled bike! That is actually a neat solution if you are keeping the fairing and if the fittings are freely available?

    • Like 1
  2. 10 hours ago, coombehouse said:

    It looks as though the oil leaves the engine via the takeoff on the oil pressure switch plate & returns into the oil filter housing. 

    Logical explanation - I forgot the oil switch on these works as a relief valve ie. lifting on pressure about 1 psi LOL!  So cooler will get pressurised oil @ whatever pressure the engine makes but can't imagine flow will be much via the switch !

    • Like 1
  3. 28 minutes ago, Reinhoud said:

    Do you actually need straight cut gears? from about 180hp I would consider this.

    Straight cut gears aren't necessarily 'stronger' but they minimise side pressure on the clutch basket - helical gears are stronger as they have more teeth contacting at any one point, run quieter but do induce side loading, they also absorb more power - only fractional due to forgoing points but its there!

  4. 12 hours ago, dupersunc said:

    If you arent getting detonation the compression ratio isnt anything to worry about.

    Head cooler definetly needed though. Bigger the better.

    Its a big 'IF' !

    Its a new build with 70kms total running & its unclear as to new / used bottom end, set-up status of the carbs / ignition and whether the package was ragged around or ridden sensibly? Its the detonation that you don't hear that kills engines and most of the time you won't!

    'Bigger' cooler doesn't automatically mean larger frontal area - depth or thickness needs to be considered, as this allows longer contact time so transferring more heat. They will be equally 'draggy' for airflow but thicker may be easier to package within bodywork!

    • Like 2
  5. From your Bio - you aren't exactly in the coolest part of the world are you ! ! !  You are sailing very close to the edge using a skimmed DOT head (i'm guessing static CR may be about 11.5+ : 1 or more) and I'm unsure of the quality of your petrol as it would be advisable (in the UK at least) to be using 98 / 99 RON fuel. But back to cooling - a head cooler is pretty much a requirement with that climate & engine spec IMO and / or a bigger / more efficient main cooler wouldn't hurt either!

  6. 16 hours ago, giuse96 said:

    Hello everyone,

    I’ve bought an ‘81 suzuki GS 500, and she has this problem: 

    at around 5500 rpm has an hole, the engine stutters for a moment and then gets over and continue to rev up till red zone high rpm no problems.

     

    She has this problem at every gas opening, 

    I’ve tried almost everything on the carbs, I’ve mounted on a 4 to 1 exhaust and separate air filters.

     

    jets mikuni bs carbs

    47,5 pilot jet 

    130 main 

    needle 2 position (tried almost on every position this seems the best)

    120 air jet

    1 rotation fuel screw

    fuel level ok, 

    synchro ok.

    the bike idles fine, and below this point and above it’s pretty good

    chain distribution it’s as manual,

    spark plug correct

    8 bar on every cylinder 

    thanks, 

    bye

     

    There's yer problem ! ^^^ in Red. CV carbs just do not get on with separate air filters without LOADS of work! If an aftermarket jetting kit is available - DJ or Factory - it may cure it or go back to std. airbox!

  7. Isn't it an EFE pressure switch plate with the oil temp sensor removed? I'm not that up on GSX oil systems but isn't the space behind the filter cover full of unfiltered oil? If so, that set-up is dumping unfiltered oil into the main gallery?

    • Like 1
  8. New parts are a lottery regarding availability - s/hand stuff can be had but again a lottery pending the sellers description for 'as new', 'barely used or 'absolutely bollux'd'

    • Like 1
  9. Re : The engine, if its been stored 'closed up' ie. plugs in and all orifices plugged it should be as good as the day it was stored! If not then moisture will have gotten in and the rust monster will likely cover any steel not thickly coated in old oil. Popping any of the covers will give a good idea of internal state!

    • Like 1
  10. Raises more questions! Requires short reach plugs? If not, then exposed plug threads carbon up and muller the head threads coming out! Lowers compression! And 'kernel' type combustion chambers never seem to help overall combustion from what i've read. Maybe they were just grinding / polishing out some cracks LOL!

  11. Seems a bit harsh but if those are the rules! For me, Endurance should be about finishing and doing whatever it takes to finish - providing safety isn't compromised! Some points is a lot better than no points or do you have a 'discard results x times' rule as well? Bike endurance isn't something I particularly follow - I tend towards Sports Cars hence the question.

  12. 1 hour ago, johny said:

    It has a neutral light. So I guesss I just need to work which of the 2 coloured  wires from  The bandit ignition switch I don't need as tthe 550 only has a socket in the loom for 4 wires 

    Ignore the neutral light - that is sourced / fed from the general loom.

    I don't have a 600 Blandit loom schematic but the 1200 has the same 4 colours as a GS550 switch and they do the same things + 2 extra. The extra two are Orange / Yellow and Black / White. Black / White is generally an earth with Suzuki's and this wire is shared with other things so is an earth. The Orange / Yellow goes to the ignition module so this is likely the other side of the resistor mentioned above as when key is turned Red is connected to Orange, Brown connected to Grey and Orange / Yellow connects to Black / White. 

    • Like 1
  13. It wasn't the cost aspect - more the getting the bike mobile again to get back to pits for repairs. Endurance is usually won by none to pretty machines that are still functioning.

    • Like 1
  14. 4 minutes ago, Poldark said:

    Two extra wires:

    On older bikes, the tachometer was normally cable driven off the engine.  On newer bikes, the tach is often electrically driven off the ignitor box.

    The other wire could be a part of a safety interlock system.  Engine won't start or run without a certain combination of conditions being met between transmission, clutch, and side stand.

    Tacho wiring would be in the main loom bundle to clocks ie, not in Ign Switch. Don't know about the 600's but Bland 12's have a resistor in the Ign Switch to prevent hot wiring - maybe these two are the in and out for that?

  15. Cooked how? Can't say i've seen 'cooked' cam bearings! I've seen destroyed journals through oil failure and damage caused through poor oil maintenance / changes. But 'cooked' implies overheated / burnt? So IMO, common - No!

    • Like 1
  16. 11 hours ago, Jaydee said:

    Tried it with the stock filter but the K&N was miles better. Found my K was a lot more lively.

    Don't doubt it - the DJ kit is doing what it's supposed to do - it will work with stock filters but a bit pointless!

  17. 10 hours ago, Jaydee said:

    And upgrade the air filter too. If you're increasing the fuel, you have to increase the air proportionately.  My 1127K, I have a stage 1 K&N single cone filter in my  airbox, stage 1 DJ and 4-1 Akrapovic. Works for me.

    DJ stg 1 kits are designed to work with stock and free flow filters in an airbox so there can't be a huge change. Stg 3 is where the bigger fuel changes occur. Cali bike tuning is a law unto themselves due to the smog bollux added which messes with everything!

  18. 48 minutes ago, Neil-IOM said:

    Gurls blouse superdram reg rec all the way, been using them on gs gsx for donkeys years withouit any problems,  worth ditching the block connector for the three yellows from the genny and soldering them   

    LOL - haven't seen a wet dream RR for about 20 years!

    • Like 2
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