Gixer1460
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Posts
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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Ha Ha Ha - anyone recommending a strobe on an oil cooled engine . . . . . . has never tried strobing an oil cooled engine! When you know - you know!
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Is it movable? Only say that as the gap is 'usually' placed a way before TDC / Firing point to allow the calculations to be carried out and injection / timing offsets adjusted - normally 90 degrees is used. Nice wheel btw.
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5 hours ago, RiP said:
Gixer1460, ?
You've asked same Q in two different posts / threads!
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Could be fibres, could be hammered / grooved hub. Unlikely basket as steel takes lot of abuse before marking. Pattern fibres can be draggy out of the box.
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7 minutes ago, RiP said:
Clutch issue: I have a magnum 2 and the clutch doesn’t engage and when putting bike into 1st it surges forward, any ideas ?
What engine first off ? Second - cable or hydraulic operation ? Has it ever worked? If yes - what has changed ? Thirdly - we are not mind readers LOL!
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3 hours ago, clivegto said:
20 roller sprag
I only said 10 as the bits between, looked solid! Whatever, if it works it has to be an upgrade!
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So, is that a 10 roller sprag (one way) bearing? Very nice fix if it is !
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36's for general all round ability, nice round town and pretty good top end - obviously you'll really need new / SH intake rubbers (38 may clamp down but likely to leak air)
38's would be straight swap, won't really like town work, will deffo show at top end - intake rubbers - use what you have.
40's deffo race carb unless you plan going mucho big on capacity.
34's Not often seen on bigger engines but would work great if staying high single figure rpm's
Bear in mind these can't be ridden like CV carbs - you can't just open up to WOT and expect them to cope - a degree of finese is required! But on the whole - good carbs!
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That's odd, as I count 21 short and one tall ie. 22 tooth wheel? I would have expected to see 22 short and two tall (thus marking the missing) Is the tooth count correct in the ecu parameters?
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5 hours ago, Stuey said:
No a 22 missing 2 if I remember correctly
Strange count - how does that divide into 360?
I think you mean 24-2 !
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If the Blandit pistons are flat or have any dish - then CR will be lower when compared to GSXR 1127 which have raised crown pistons. Don't know what cc the Blandit head is but GSXR 1127 is 26 or 27ccs - I suspect Blandit is the same!
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3 hours ago, wraith said:
So just to confirm, the DOT head gear box will not fit the gsxr1100 1127cc engine?
It will - just not directly without minor modifications. Its not a drop in and ride deal.
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Don't get me wrong, the autotune function on some ecu's IS very clever and can take virtually any base map and correct it - its the boost element that complicates things! When mine was being mapped, from a starting point of nothing ie. no base map, my guy disconnected the up pipe so no boost was reaching the engine and mapped fuel and ignition entirely NA - cold starts, hot starts, idle, part and full throttle. Only when that was done, was the pipe reconnected to check what the boost compensations were doing. Effectively if the MAP sensor is working and generated numbers with a vacuum present ie. up to 100mbars, any addition of pressure over that is a simple addition or multiplication in regard fuel enrichment. Ignition though is guesswork and without a reliable knock sensor (virtually impossible on a bike engine) you tend to always play safe because if AI thinks 40 degs may work @ 2 bar boost - it'll do it without anymore thought!
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The thought of 'self tuning' in closed loop whilst utilising boost would scare the pants off me! Just look at the mess AI can create when left to its own devices - Nah, not for me!
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Ahh Ha! - Top man!
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1 minute ago, Toecutter said:
Could be easier to use a banjo style hydraulic pressure switch with your setup? Less parts, cleaner look?
Did you read the preamble up top !
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25 minutes ago, baldrick said:
Aren't the gsxr cam journals line bored?
No experience of the swap but would wonder if that might cause a issue
Not an issue - its a cam swap not a cap swap. If it was no one could change cams to performance ones!
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Thanks - its the thin U shaped bit that looks like a Z on both of those that I seem to be missing. I assume it connects to the lever on the other side of the plate?
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Looks like you are liable to make noise way before I get my poxy brake light switches sorted out LOL!
Fitted a switch this PM - stock location but clashes with 2no. crankcase breather hoses! They come out of clutch housing with 90 deg fittings so they push hose in wrong direction so have to find some 45 deg fittings - one step forward, two of three backwards !
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Hi All,
I'm getting hacked off trying to get the hydraulic brake light switches to work on my GSXR 1100 M so i'm reverting to 'normal OEM' stuff and losing a) my AP racing front lever assembly, replaced with alternative from stock with a proper mechanical switch and b) adding a traditional 'pull' switch to the rear! This is where I run into difficulties - I have a Harris Performance lever and rearset assembly and have no idea what the stock GSXR assembly looks like or where the spring sits / connects to between switch and footlever.
It feels like something is missing but without a standard bike to look at - i'm guessing. I've looked on the parts fisches and workshop manual but they are next to useless . . . . . so I would appreciate if someone could take some piccies of the standard footrest / lever / spring / light switch so I can see what's missing or what I need to fabricate to join A to B to C!
Muchos Grassy Arse in anticipation.
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Not saying that all the above isn't important but in the grand scheme of things, my experience suggests it isn't 'that' important! Clive knows my bike - turbo, big cc's and EFI, and its power output - the pump has a 12mm inlet and 8mm outlet but is fed from std tank with a Pingle single outlet tap (no mesh filter) !
If anyone has taken a Pingle apart - ALL the flow from tank goes through a 1/4" / 6mm dia hole ! ! ! The multi outlet taps flow no more fuel - same 6mm from tank, just multiple outlets on the body. Suffice to say that my bike ran out of injector flow / duty before the pump or tank outlet flow was insufficient . . . . . . just sayin'
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Or you could have got a 4 channel coil amp and used COP's - sequential ignition
(if the ecu supported it 
)
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Aye - the closer you get, the more iddy biddy things that need to be done and the greater bodges get included . . . . . . . just so it makes noise!
Been there, got multiple tee shirts
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Two things that haven't been mentioned - plug leads and / or plugs! Both can break down with heat and the latter - possibly fake NGK's if that is the brand of choice?
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Mk2 Bandit Turbo Build
in Forced Induction
Posted
Don't forget when checking injectors - pull the fuel pump fuse and don't run them too long with no fuel going through (they cool via fuel flow in use). Soon time to get noisy and smelly