martyngsxr

quick question when im bridging the orange and red on the loom side of the ignition do i need to do anything with the other 2 wires

doing some work on the 750l on the weekend replacing the leaking oil cooler did that and then refilled the oil etc went to start after and no spark. i hadnt touched the electrics apart from turning the ignition off and on so i started checking most things and everything seems to check out but still no spark unplugged the ignition switch and bridged it to see if it was the switch still no spark. spoke to a friend who is really good with electrics and we went through most things and it all seemed to check out fine even swapped out the cdi and still no spark. by this time i was pissed right off and the battery was flat so put it on charge and left it until the next day went to start and it started on the the button so i put it all back together then the spark disappeared again getting a tiny bit pissed of with it now the only difference since it starting and not is the ignition switch my thinking is if its the switch the engine wouldnt even turn over

i have a 1990 750 running a full micron system standard airbox with k&n filter fitted no real flat spots as such to talk about dyno time will probably help as stated above

the main mounting bolts are fine its the smaller bolts that hold the mudguard to the steel frame

looks like im getting the drill out this weekend and drilling the old rusted bolts

thats what i was hoping you lot would say now all ive got to do is to try and seperate the steel from the mudguard

question do you really need the steel bracket under the front mudguard on the l and m or can I fit the mudguard without it

1990 so l or m

Has anyone got the lengths of the swing arms for 750 and 1100 1900 got a spare swingarm just want to make sure it's the correct one

Here's mine

If you need a hand I'm in Bristol

What I normally do is use a big syringe fill it with brake fluid and then connect to the bleed nipple crack it open and then basically back bleed

I've just bought fittings and hose from a place called jjc race and rally it seems that there selling of stuff from aps hose and fittings

Already bought the fittings and the pipe plus fire retardant sleeve

ive plumped for 90 degree fittings on the cooler instead of the 180 i went with the hel oil cooler bracket

thats what i was hoping but ive also been told that someone had problems with the forks touching the cooler when going from lock to lock i havent fitted the cooler yet but will be doing it soon just wanted to see if there was any advice as ive still got the fairing fitted on mine

Okay got a leaky original curved oil cooler so I've bought a 19 row 235mm cooler I'm going to be using a hel oil cooler bracket has anyone done the same as i don't really want to have to adapt the fairing

That's what I thought as well if you could measure it up for me that would be good

Does anyone know what pitch the bolt is that attaches the oil lines to the sump

Thanks but I was looking for early gsxr and blandits for some reason I had it in my head you can use bandit discs on a slight but can't remember if it was 600 or 1200

am i going mad or was there a spreadsheet on the old site saying which discs were interchangeable

went last year and bumped into mark powell and one of the lads from screw river it was a blast from the past and it turns out mr powell is a bit of a horder now

the last bit of that video was the day in question out the back of aps in stokes croft

just wondering if anyone on here is going to the shepton mallet show the first weekend in feb cheers martyn

What's the best way of cleaning all the crud off the oil cooler that collects from the front wheel the only problem is I use as daily transport