martyngsxr

okay i got to the bottom of the cdi frying it was a set of coils that i bought listed as for the 750l i just took them on face value until i was still having problems then i took them off and did a few checks with the multimeter. it turns out the primary resistance was only 0.8 ohm instead of 2.8 ohm so fitted another set of gsxr coils and it looks like the problem is solved and a pissy email sent to the seller

okay this may be one for the vault but im having headaches with my 750l and was wondering if anyone has created a reference chart on what cdi's are interchangeable at the moment i have 32900-17d00 but its a bit worse for wear at the moment it stinks. after having problems with dropping a cylinder on the way to work last week i changed the plugs and the coils went out on it saturday started fine ticking over fine for about 10 minutes got on and went about 2 miles and it cut out as if no petrol. checked fuel and the obvious then poped the seat and got a wiff of that unmistakeable smell of buggered electronics so phoned the rac 4 hours later the flat bed turns up to take me home. got home and striped the bike managed to get another cdi with the same part number and guess what exactly the same happened apart from this time i managed to push/ride it home. spoke to a freind who is a top spanner man and he said he had exactly the same problem on a bandit he has and guess what the cdi numbers are the same he has fitted a different cdi and has had hassle free riding since. cheers martyn

I was thinking that myself but I'm a bit like a monkey fucking a football when it comes to electrics

Okay fitted a cheap set of coils from Eblag until I can find a decent set of originals and it seems at the moment it's cured

id be interested to know weather swapping out the original coils worked as i have roughly the same problem starts on all four then when gets warm drops a cylinder at low revs going to change coils when i can to see if this cures the problem

i think it may be a coil problem once it gets warm it starts dropping out but what ever it is its annoying

on my way to work this morning and while in traffic my 1990 750l dropped a cylinder made it to work got a new set of plugs and it all seemed fine but on the way home it started to drop a cylinder again got it home did a bit of investigation but couldnt find anything obvious but took it out and it seems when it gets warm and you pull away from tickover it is only firing on 3 but as soon as you get above 2000 rpm the 4th cylinder comes in now im thinking it may be some dodgy fuel or i have a coil going down

What ohms rating should I be using on a 1990 750l

that bike brings back some memories of when i was working at aps and the screw river racing lads pulled up and you decided it was time for a new rear tyre and did a burnout out the back on the cobbles

most of the aftermarket ones listed for slingshots don't fit as I have found out on my 750l for some reason the spacing is listed as 50mm when it is actually 52mm

i think the k1 1000 systems fit but they sit a bit low so you may need to apply some heat and a bit of pressure

checked alpha sports and the part numbers dont match

I didn't know if the shock lengths were different

Doing my Sunday ritual and scanning eblag and found a 1100l shock for sale now my question is what's the difference between the 750l shock and the 1100l shocks

well i can confirm that what i thought was a 1100w does not fit on my 750l if i use the sprocket carrier taht came with the wheel the chain run is off and if i use the 750l carries the rear brake is off on the 1100 carrier the sprocket sits deeper and the centre is taller on the carrier than the 750l if that makes sense ill take some piccys later when im home

Okay calmed down a bit now after yesterday now do I use the w sprocket carrier or the 750l carrier and do u need both spacers for the w wheel or a mix and match I.e w brake side spacer and l sprocket side spacer cheers Martyn

Struggling to get the rear to fit I hate bikes at the moment

Cheers del that's what I thought thanks for confirming it

okay the wheels on my 750l are pretty scabby someone is selling a set of wheels and discs and sprocket carrier from a 1100w am i correct in thinking they will fit the 750l cheers martyn

Looking at putting some clip on risers on my 750l as my wrists are starting to feel the pain of the under yoke clip ons I want to keep the fairing so that's why I'm looking at the clip on route instead of the top yoke conversion has anyone fitted a set if so made by who and was there any alterations needed to the fairing

well its got to the point were the engine may be coming out at this point in time im thinking to myself why the fuck did i start this as it was only a small blow from the collector

well the mig welding a nut on didnt work so its now onto the drilling of the bolts and rethread

just a tiny bit of difference then

well after having the accident last year noticed a slight blow from the collector well it had a nice crack so i sourced a replacement exhaust system and decided to just swap over the collectors as its just held in place by springs. 1 & 4 bolts came out easily but 2 & 3 were 13mm head bolts when they were put in but time and rust had munched them down to about 10 0r 11mm thus i had 3 snapped bolts in the head a good mate has now got the bike at his place and it looks like its going to be a drill and tap job as even with welding new nuts onto the exposed thread isnt working also it looks like the micron system are not completely stainless it looks like they have mild steel pressed into the end of the stainless downpipes check out the piccy

Okay mine had a micron on after the accident I realised there was a crack in the collector got a replacement unhooked the springs and thought swap out but the downpipes wouldn't come out of the collector then it all went down hill big style