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Posts posted by davecara
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45 minutes ago, Captain Chaos said:
I know that EZ/ED/EFE switches fit oilcooled motors, I had one on my B12 engine, connected to EFE clocks. I think 850 ones are the same size.
Only needs a re-arrangement of the pins in the connector because the switch drum turns the other way round.
EFE switches 100% fit. Ive done a couple now
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8 hours ago, Dezza said:
I am curious to know why you don't like soldered joints. I even carefully solder each crimped terminal to go into any block connector to prevent the wire from pulling out. I have found this is especially a problem with new thin wall cable, even though my crimpers are pretty good. Obviously the thicker the wire the less this is of a problem.
8 hours ago, imago said:Vibration and corrosion are the two main reasons against using it on automotive stuff. Vibration is an issue because you introduce one small area which is completely rigid into something which is flexible and absorbs vibration everywhere else. Corrosion because unless it gets washed afterwards the acidic flux residue corrodes the copper of the cores and the zinc and metal in connectors.
The other issue is usually the standard of the soldering.
Exactly as @imagohas said, an otherwise flexible length of cable now suddenty has a rigid section in it, usually on 20+ year old cable, usually ending up with burnt cable sheathing, which when potentially exposed to oil/fuel and whatever else might be about, isnt a good idea
The response is 100% of the time "I've soldered for years and never had a problem" If thats the case youre either; Lucky, Never noticed a problem or telling porkies (these are the peope who shrink heatshrink down with a fag lighter). Theres no soldered joints in a factory loom and you'll never find one in a correctly and professionally built race bike loom which is arguably the acid test for any wiring job. Soldering PCBs is fine as its a completely inflexible thing but main looms are no go.
And besides, soldering looks shit
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If you want quick and dirty, use a 600 bandit loom, they’re cheap and plentiful.
Building a harness from scratch isn’t hard, if you want to go that way. Draw it all out and measure everything properly and lay out one circuit at a time following your design.
Just make sure you don’t use any of those shitty blue crimp connectors and don’t solder any joints (there’s a can of worms!)websites like
www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk
www.Kojaycat.co.uk
will have most of the resources you need
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Make yourself some brackets to drop them down a touch so its more comfortable. Easy enough provided you own a drill and a file.
I'm convinced you need to be 5"5 and 8 stone piss wet through to get comfy one a slabby
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54 minutes ago, GeorgeEI7KO said:
Hopefully i will be there too. Be good to put faces to the names.
Youve got to hope my kids dont scare you back over the Irish sea yet!
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The 'cam to cam' are pointless and actually well below the actual cams. Youre connecting fresh air to fresh air.
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Option 2 will burn your CDI out
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@Dezmeister to the service desk pleae
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7 minutes ago, Dezza said:
I did not know Lynx Africa and carb cleaner were interchangable. I'll tell my son when he comes home as the carb cleaner smells a whole lot better.
I normally have a few kicking around after the festive period, smells awful but cleans stuff quite well!
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7 minutes ago, imago said:
Poor bastard, visiting Britain and he's offered a choice of Birmingham or Liverpool as first contact.
And then to a chicken farm
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1 hour ago, imago said:
If you don't want/need to bring a bike, I know I know but hear me out. Check out flight prices to/from Birmingham as I can pick you up from the airport and drop you back there if you wanted to do it that way.
Or liverpool!
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Sounds very much like a fuelling issue, possibly your plugs have gotten wet, in which case you'll want to leave them a while to flash off, also a possibility the tap isnt providing fuel to the carbs? tap set to PRIME or ON? I've had a tap close itself under vacuum before now
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Little things like the ignition pickup (little red plug) not been rewired on bullet connectors and connected back to front?
If youve got spark and the leads etc are good it must be fuel related. Will it fire on brake cleaner/carb cleaner/lynx africa?
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Have you changed your ignition barrel?
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Count me in
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Take a foot out of that link pipe and youre sorted!
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Buy a mk1 (1996 to 2001) Bandit 1200 complete front end. Swap the steering stems with a hydraulic press, fit new headstock bearings and enjoy a more modern front end and better selection of tyres.
If you wanted to go further, you could buy better springs or cartridge emulators
If youre fussed about matching wheels, then any 600 bandit rear wheel will fit with the right combo of spacers and tinkering.
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1 minute ago, Niqueman14 said:
quick question does this same rule apply for if you have a couple mm over stroker crankshaft?? or is this only for longer con rods??
It would have to or the pistons would smash into the combustion chamber!
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12 minutes ago, Duckndive said:
And the Kids bike went just over 300 on stock rods
Kevs engine had busa rods in it iirc
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11 minutes ago, TonyGee said:
the mk1 and mk2 forks are similar but up to 99 the mudguard is bolted to the fork brace (bracket) with top mounts, the mk2 has a more conventional mudguard mounts on the side of the legs. also the calliper mount holes are different. decent enough forks though.
Mk2 won’t have a speedo cable though!
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I’d go full 1200 bandit front end, 1996 though to about 2002 I thjnk before they used a digital speedo ( I await correcting on that!)
Get some cartridge emulators and /or progressive springs and some fresh oil and it’ll transform the bike
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Wouldnt a 1200 bandit be more stright forward? Theyre plentiful and cheap and can be made to work reasonably well for next to no money. You.ll need to swap the steering stem but thats not a monumentally difficult task
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@gsxr884was doing some work to resurrect the LeDar kits if I remember right?
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Custom brake line source?
in Air Cooled
Posted
Pretty sure Rich could ship to 'Murica? @gsxr884 I wont use anyone else