Rene EFE
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Posts posted by Rene EFE
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If oilcooled; basically the same. Mk2 frame is even uglier than Mk1 although this is personal opinion. Both are good sources of parts for cool bikes, this is fact.
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Cool pics too
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Racereport here; http://www.riderfiles.com/talladega-wera-march-1988/
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10 hours ago, Bondy said:
Haha. I spent a couple of days researching the anodising process and went round tescos looking for tubs and stuff. The dangerous acids were bought from Amazon. Dyes came from Eblag. The lot set me back about 200 quid including the power pack. It's been put to good use though. Worth every penny. It's great to be able to make something in the garage and then take it out to the workshop and anodise it. Very enjoyable to do.
Any pointers on where you found the info on the process?
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I too have seen it on Fb but all here at once is a bit overwhelming. More people should take builds this seriously, F* me
How do you go about the anodising? Is it something you've done before, found a how-to on the interwebz, or are you just too handy for your own good?
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On 25-2-2016 at 8:40 PM, Neill666 said:
Back from powder coating time to start rebuild ,engine degreased ready for paint, exhaust polished coz I canny afford a new one
I desperatly need a Harris in my life. I got offered one once but let it pass....
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And expensive
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Good, in the UK you can get away with a hell of a lot more than over here.
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Roadlegal?
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How far off is the bike to finishing?
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We're no facebook, so don't have the means, nor the room to host everything ourselves. Emojies don't work in any HTML-based platform, maybe in the future.
There's ways to post pics that are easy if you know howWith the current cockup at Photobucket and a possible bug in the latest Forum build, we'll just have to wait and see when out softwarebuilders will have it fixxed. In the mean time, the admins and mods will try to fix broken links where they see them.
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You can see where it's not like it's supposed to be at the bottom. Same lip on the top, but in turn on the inside of the rubber and thus in the engines airflow.
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7 hours ago, MrS819 said:
Use a ratchet strap to pop them if helps. Its the only way I can get the carbs back on my GSXR1100 WT.
Nick the hairdryer of the misses, you'll never look back.
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It's not that I have problems fitting the carbs to the rubbers; I've got my tricks. It's about the fitment of the rubbers to the head. I'd like very much if the step wouldn't be there, but can;t seem to find a set which would give me this and fit the flatslides.
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Yes, very annoying and it's being looked into. In the mean time if I see posts with pics not working, I'll try to fix them
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They honestly don't and I was very suprised to find it out. The Teapot's that are on it now will stay and hopefully work. If all else fails, I can still revert back to CV's
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Building up a GSXR750L with Mikuni 34mm flatslides. I've tried a number of combinations, and the one that gets closest to fitting is teapot 750-rubbers. However, this gives quite a big step between the head and the rubbers; are there different ones that would give the right fitment?
Original L rubbers are too big, 750K rubbers (36cv's) give the wrong spacing, strangely.
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88j 750 would be the same frame. I helped get the engine in Quist's bike and it went in without any hassle.
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That's because you can't take of the breathercap separate.
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'88 750. Engine will fit fine and clearanceissues should be taken care off by the aformentioned flatslides. The 88/89 frame is the smallest, lightest and arguably the most extreme Slingshot frame. The later ones were all more civilised so no point in using them imho
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Bagger
in Air Cooled
2535km via Tallinn
id on clocks please ?gsxr
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Yes, although a stock 750 tacho starts at 3k, so it's possibly built up of different bits. Definitely Slingy clocks though.