Rene EFE
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Posts posted by Rene EFE
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Plus 180 gives you a lot more options to choose from.
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If you're using the later setup from a Bandit, every Slingshot-shock, K-series GSXR and a fair few more will fit, even from other manufacturers. K has my preference
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Yes, it will most definitely fit. Physically slightly smaller and quite a bit narower. Tabs made up on the rear bottom mount and the rest is just measuring and cutting mountingplates.
All you need is the engine, loom and a welder really
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1 hour ago, YoshiJohnny said:
and showboats for his business like the "Ka TL ana" a TL1000 with a Kat twist
Following the TL build on FB with great interest. Keen to see what you two come up with.
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Did you have a knock on the head?
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9 hours ago, MadFred said:
Your first pic rene EFE doesn´t show..
Fucking shit Google+ thing
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You probably mean one of these;
If you do, a swap to an Oilcooled engine is fairly straight-forward, if you have access to a welder. Physically smaller than what you have now, a whole lot lighter, and even more faster
Simon did one with an 1100, so 750 will be an easy fit.
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How's it running with the single carb?
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Not quite right there are three different output shafts for 750s and two of them are different lengths, from L onwards they are longer from the bearing to the spline to move the sprocket out to accommodate the wider tyre . on early 1100s they had the same output shaft bearing as 750s then it was modified to a wider bearing so I would say that that shaft would be longer also as both the slingshot 1100 and bandit run 180 tyres.
Hmm, odd, never knew that. I put a WP backend in my 750K and that went in without any hassle, chainrun spot on. This of course with the relevant spacers to the wheel and swingarm.
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On-topic; the Jaygui systems are VERY good and the buildquality is second to none. All that's wrong with them is the name
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Too right Jon, too right..
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Ron still has my Barry Sheene-dvd, don't think I'll ever see that back, along with a bike we won't mention...
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Floatheight + seal is to be checked first
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Yo dude
I've just done the same thing.
That 5.5 just drops right in thing is not quite true.
Kokolis is right, the wheel is from a 750 L, I used the disc, calliper & hanger from my slabbie & the spacers from L.
The sprocket carriers are the same height if you put them next to each other, the sprocket on the L is 6 bolts.
Then it will fit, but, but its real tight, I eased it in with a vernier reaming tool (crow-bar).
It needs 2mm shaving off the out-side of the calliper hanger.
As it is, the chain is out by 1mm ish. After 4000 miles its polished the outside of the rear sprocket a touch.
For the front end, any period usd front end will drop straight in. The steering stems/bearings are all the same.
I used a 1100 WP, I think the're the longest. I'e got the measurements all written down.
The WP yoke needs the lock stops cutting off, but you can bolt a bit of angle bar across the front using already existing bolt holes.
Also the WP top yoke has drillings for the clocks if you're keeping the original mounting set up
If this is true (and I assume it is) on your bike, there is something seriously wonky with the frame. I did this swap more than a few times and I have NEVER had to modify anything.
Chainrun cannot run un-true, because the front sprocket on all oilcooled engines was in the same position, from the earliest 750 to the last 1157 in the Bandit.
Frontend; any slingshot drops straight in, lockstops are where they should be and bearings are the same.
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Really? Bugger. How about in my project topic?
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Are they the same?
I need a wider swingarm in the 750 and I've got a very trick one sitting in a non-used EF.
Can they be interchanged without modification?
Pic for attention
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Basesetting: sit the bike up straight and push down on the seat. It should move up and down equally front and back.
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I did not know that
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and Suzukis are famous for eating spark plugs when trying to start with a battery which is not 100%.
Never a truer spoken.
I personally have a big dislike for 38's and Dynojetkits, in that order. Put them together and you have my equivalent of a nightmare.
What you're experiencing is exactly what we found on @Jelly's bike. I've thrown the towel in the ring and think we should change them for 36's.
I had them on all oilcooler I've built and I can set them up blindfolded, they're the exact opposite of the 38's.
I'm sorry that I can't help you to a solution to your problem, to me, the 38's are just not worth the effort; they suck.
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In stock form there is a 100+cc capacity difference. This will be noticable when set up the same (carbs and exhaust)
Bandit has helical primary, whereas the Slabby will be straight-cut; less loss/more noise.
There's also the agedifference; a Slabby will be a good few years older than most Bandit engines.
There's quite a few more but someone more knowlegable than me will come along shortly and fill you in.
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RWU's are a doddle and a joy to do (if it goes to plan)
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Care to share where you found it?
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Is this essential, will my frame bend with the oilcooled engine in if I don't brace it?
No, not noticably anyway. @Paulm runs his Turbo-ET without having it braced, stock engine shouldn't and won't be a problem.
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Mine's further back to have the sprocket closer to the swingarm. Have collars on the exhaust to make up the gap, works a treat but means more measuring.
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TurboGS and Bruteforce are back
in Forced Induction
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