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Posts posted by Rene EFE
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Welcome. Superb base
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1 minute ago, markfoggy said:
but I suspect that we could fuck about with that big time :lol:
The bolt-on shockmount helps
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6-speeds; Never seen one raced properly, but also never heard one used on the street that let go. You can only know if you try.
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I personally very strongly prefer the 88/89 750 frame; lighter, smaller and a more extreme headstockangle than anything that followed. Best handling bike I've ever owned (although it could've done with a steeringdamper)
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1 hour ago, markfoggy said:
So if you had a cut off, of 1991, what would you be looking at.
Now I'm looking at advice on substantive changes in chassis geometry over J,K,L, M. Plus any thoughts on construction benefits that Hammamatsu thought to include in this development era. This particular project would probably require 2 bikes to be built in parallel, so any pitfalls that anybody can think of would be useful.
You looking to test 2 bikes side by side? The earlier and later frames are quite different, earlier ones being the better of the 2, but that's personal.
QuoteAdvice on proven chassis reinforcement would be more than welcome, I'd be more than up for a bit of fabrication and welding. Advice on any swing arm preferences would also be handy, particularly any reflections on general geometry and short circuit work.
Never seen a Slingy braced before myself; they're quite chunky
QuoteEngines wise, I'm looking that buying a munter would give us cams and a Dot head, I think that the M model would get ruled out as it has too many bloody tappet adjusters!.
I'm also keen on getting the 6 speed boxes.
Dotheads and gearboxes can be had off early Teapots. They're the same, just miles cheaper because people don't know the connection. For the gearbox, you'll need to decide on which way you'll be actuating the clutch.
1127 came around with the 11K, so '89. Differences between early and later engines are all in the head so of no concern if you're using a Dot-head
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You'll fit right in.
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Friend of mine runs a very big turboengine using 3 stock springs. It's well over 300Bhp so if yours is letting go at not even half that, I'm suspecting warped plates.
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23 hours ago, cheshirekat said:
is anything else the same fitment or length in the Suzuki range that fits thanks
Realistically, no
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13 hours ago, Sheep said:
Mind you,seeing some of the Japanese factory welds makes me wonder if they have any strength
Couldn't agree more.
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5 is more then fine, as long as the weld is good, as @kenty above me already stated. I could measure mine, but it's stored away from home atm.
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Ah, right, forgot about those I had a bit of a late night last night
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As above, if you've got the right tool for the job, it becomes a joy
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Oilcooler under the seat? How does it do for temperature?
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Mine (10+ sets) are all flush. The whole principle of carbs work off how the ventury is shaped, so the lip can't be good.
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10 hours ago, Blubber said:
I too bench synced them using the "drill slide" method and they where spot on.
The what?
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Whatever will be wrong with it; if there's play anywhere, it will have "interesting" handling
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Afaik it should fit; both sumps are very shallow.
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On 14-4-2016 at 10:31 AM, Rat said:
nah I like factory fresh..a nice resto. the previous owner wanted to cafe racer it!!! nooooooo
Good thing you got it
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As above; original footplates with a GSXR swingarm doesn't work because the later swingarm is a fair bit wider, especially a WP-item.
However, the mounts for the original plates is as straightforward as they come, so easily sorted.
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If you get the swingarm, the linkage and the dogbones that are originally fitted together, it's a straight swap.
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7 hours ago, locky7 said:
i think i read somewhere that the motors were different if so what are the differences?
They're not
The Hypothetical 7/11 Thread
in Oil Cooled
Posted
How?