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underseat area with fan works great
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Hey all…. a buddy of mine is starting a complete restoration project 1990 1100 L ….. the body decals are easy enough to find but the warning labels and info labels are proving to be a challenge to source….. any places in the UK that do em ?
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there is a good read on intercoolers in the “ maximum boost” book from Corky Bell……
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…… because it will look badasssss
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header (4-1) ….. yes . full system….. No ….. mounting point at rear is different .
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……windshield washer fluid 50/50
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19 minutes ago, Mike711 said:
Couldn't find the specs on there, can you measure the height of yours for me?
no can do…. bike is stored for winter .
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dimensions should be on the Pingel website……. ordered 1 for my ET a few months back
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5 hours ago, rerb said:
Thanks for the recommendation.
I've got a probably stupid question, but I've asked a few people and haven't gotten a straight answer yet.
Since porting the heads should make the motor more efficient at making power with boost, if there were 2 identical motors both making 250 hp, but one was ported on 12 psi, and the other not ported on 15 psi, would the ported one be less likely to blow since it's running lower boost pressure? Or does it only depend on the power output of the motor?
Seems like it'll have a pretty straight forward answer, but I haven't found it yet. Thanks
#1- Yes #2- depends on state of tune….. fueling , ignition
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seeing that you are in USA ….. several choices available but expensive….. Holeshot performance , Star racing , APE , Klymenko flo ….. sooo many others…takes your pick
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that little seal will come out easily enough with a flat blade screw driver….. puncture the seal midway from shaft to case seat….. pry downwards like a man ….. and it will come out
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20 minutes ago, dupersunc said:
have you tried oil cooled headers on one of these engines?
physically …. no ….. but it is the same variant as the slab motors . I have a V&H header for a 1052 I could measure up …..
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the closest header fitment for that motor would be slab 750 / 1052 …… port spacing and bolt spacing on that motor are different than aircooled ……
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On 10/19/2021 at 1:59 PM, Joseph said:
But frankly, they sell for £20 in Japan so...
hmmmm…. link ?
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a proper mill with a solid carbide bit will do the job . since you have that extra threaded hole , bolt the cap down and use a steel sleeve inside the bore of the opposite side…. this will be a guide to keep the drill from wobbling around . before drilling …measure the depth of the bore from the top of the cap to the bottom of the threaded hole and set the machine stop … this will keep you from drilling too far into the head….use high speed and constant pressure ( medium) …. the extractor will get red hot and the carbide bit will go through it quickly…..keep the pressure untill you have passed through both the extractor and bolt . left hand carbide bits are available too and may aid in the process but not always . This worked for me and I had 4 of them in the same head to do .
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K&L supply probably have a kit for those carbs …… apparently Japan made so a better quality than the chinky stuff on gaybay
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indeed it does….. good luck with your tunning .
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..,,,. put your mixture screws at 1 1/2 turns out from seated and go try it out .
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…… yeahhhhhh….., go on then ….. a few turns out with the mixture screws and you’re almost there !
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you could have made 1 run on a dyno to see your fueling and get it running proper…… fuckin’ about with needles and jets and mixture screws and trying to diagnose with plug inspections……
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check engine compression first......have a look via camera probe into the bores.....
Oil cooler location. With a intercooler
in Forced Induction
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I have some pics on the pc I could locate ......mine was a 90' gsxr 1100 turbo as well......but the cooler I used was a setrab 19 row iirc and positioned on almost a 60 degree angle ( bike was lowered so needed the tire clearance).....just above the front of the swinger pivot and just behind the seat latch .......fan was off a 04' R1 .