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93-98 are for wc motors ….. there is no difference in cranks / rods for 1127 and B12 …same big/small ends ….
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10 hours ago, wraith said:
The rear caliper hanger for the gsxr that has the rubber o ring bush thing in it.
I take it, if you can just push the steel insert out, It's fu#ked?
no…… very little movement on that part….as long as it does not rattle its good to go
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your 1052 sump will be the best option for setting the bike low......the left rear ( where the pick up sits) is the lowest point ) the banjo bolts sit slightly recessed in relation to the sump pick up . Bandit 12 , gsxr 1100 and gsxf1100 are all taller sumps compared to the 1052....so no gain there ...... in all configurations....the lowest point of all the sumps will be the drain plug . top pic is gsxf1100 …. bottom pic is 1052
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On 3/19/2022 at 5:46 PM, gs7_11 said:
The frames aren't the same size
….the lower mid mounts are different ….. can you elaborate on where else these frames differ ?
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if you are refering to the oem b12 headers … keep in mind they are twin wall pipes…. heavy and are restrictive . … Have not cut a b6 one to see but the odds are that they are also twin wall . just an example here…I weighed a hindle 4-2-1 stainless system yesterday and they are light …..
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the 7 and 11 frames are the same size ...... therefore ...yes...you can remove the top end in situ .
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there are many factors here to set up suspension for your application .....did you check the rake / trail dimension ? rear dogbones will change geometry as well as the length of the forks/ spring rates ..... static sag for front and rear suspension .... tires / pressure ...etc etc
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have a gander at some Dave Moss suspension tuning videos on youtube
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1 hour ago, Gehr said:
Ahh, thought about that too Gixer1460 but I am pretty sure that it will work marginally at best but that will likely be my last resort! I did the calculations on how much surface area each clutch plate has in each clutch pack using the formula A = (pie) x (radius) squared. That's the formula for calculating the area of a circle. Total surface /swept area of the GSX-R750 clutch pack is 33,515mm. But if you remove a steel plate & a friction plate that goes down to 28,727mm. The stock 86' GSX-R1100 clutch pack that is narrower than the 750's but has 3 more friction plates has a surface area of 42,810mm. I can machine down the tangs of the 750's outer clutch basket by 5mm & remove 1 steel & 1 friction plate from that 750 clutch pack & have enough clearance. But will that already marginal 750 clutch pack still be up to the task? Since riveting that 1100 primary gear to the 750 hub was a huge hassle I really don't want to do that until I have no other viable options. Try to find the correct sized rivets for that primary gear! After months of looking I exhausted all leads in the USA & ended up buying some from Japan. But the seller would only sell them in bulk, minimum order was 100 rivets. That box of rivets weighed some 10 pounds so shipping from Japan was pricey. And the rivets' diameter were still were a little too large so I took them to a machine shop to be ground down. A ridiculous amount of time & money was spent on that "hybrid" clutch! Some steel plate clutch specs:
……OCD are we ? all that faffing about for what ….. lol
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blue / white standard with the proper decals of course
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B12 bolt
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bandit and slingy
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…….aaaand since it’s a hand held power drill …. feedrates and drill size formulas are out the window ….. Fbob’s method seems to be the way to go if one choses this route .
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On 2/18/2022 at 3:54 PM, Jdeac said:
Hi all. What's the best scavenge pump to use. Got a facet posi flow on but keeps weeping oil.
After shut off left to settle/cool then powered up to drain excess oil
in situations like this …… crimp type collets will provide a strong seal . unless you plan on removing the pump every other day ….
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I knew 3 guys that did this 6 speed swap way back when it was cool…..and all of them had 2nd gear failures ….. fucking waste of time for the agrovation.
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…..or this
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13 spline…..oil/ air/water
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made in Japan ( apparently)….. bought a kit for the Katana ….. looks to be legit
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Carpenter racing are very well known in the drag and performance engine building world.....and.....are located in Berlin New Jersey .....these guy's can get you sorted. carpenterracing.com
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well….. if the gauge you used was in perfect order….. the pistons are good as you claim… no broken rings…no head gasket damage…. the obvious place to look next is the cylinder head ….. bent valves or damaged seats
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use the piston to wall clearance recomended by MTC …. they will know more about the thermal expansion of thier forged pistons more than anyone else . same goes for the ring end gaps .
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….. save yourself some trouble and go with the cometic mls gasket .
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right….,. from what I can see on your bike … that battery needs to be in the swingarm, plenty of space in front of the wheel . Had my battery there on my 6” over swinger …… free’s up alot of realestate under the seat . rubber mounted of course . the cooler should follow the same angle as the frame spars that go from the pivot to the top ……. fan on the inside just below where the battery sat .
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my turbo Kat cooler set-up…..
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Katana oil leak
in Air Cooled
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......welll......gaskets and O rings are meant to keep oil in......and.....when they fail , oil finds it's way out......