bruteforce

Same here, Facet pump works great and has served me well on lots of trips. Bought two at the time, never needed the spare so far. Fitted directly under the turbo without tank.

On first glance the shocks don't match in any way. The spring diameter, coil diameter and length are all different and so will be the spring rate. I can't imagine any of these shocks (be it GSXR1000/750/600) to be a perfect match straight off the other bike, OR maybe the old shock was so bad that anything else will be an improvement . My standard shock is still OK, and because I have the Zolder circuit event coming up, I won't replace it now but will do some measurements and comparisons later on.

Hope I never need to take them back off! But they are a different type (year) of TBs anyway.

So, compression setting is obvious innit, but is "tension" the same as rebound damping?

Yours is off a 1000 right? The 600 amd 750 shocks are apparently the same but the 1000 is longer, possibly (likely?) has a stiffer spring.

So I've bought a rear shock off an k1-k3 GSXR750 that is just 10mm longer than standard and so should suit my '89 750 Slingshot just fine. Does any of you have a baseline setup for this shock? Did anyone change the spring? Help appreciated!

Whatever piston route you go, make sure you MEASURE the new CR. Despite what everyone says the various F/R motors are not identical. For turbo road use I go for 9:1 CR.

Sounds like a great buy!

Couldn't hurt to take the sump off? Most older bikes have some serious dirt in the strainer so if there's no metal in the pan it is still worth it to clean the strainer. If there's metal- you can still fire it up but....

About the same system as Scara, feed line with a one-way valve to stop the head from syphoning its oil to the turbo. As my turbo is too low for gravity drain, it has a catchtank with a Facet electric return pump. Runs a year like this now. (Old picture, now Efi)

Post some pics of that beautiful GS you'll be building the EFi onto, I'm sure our readers will like it!

IMHO it's just bad fuelling on low revs. Result of taking the airbox off and fitting open bellmouths, things get a bit more critical. An expert mechanic should be able to help you sort this.

Kenny, I've answered on the GSXR motor swap but know nothing about the 550 motor. As these motors are by now all very aged there's nothing that can be said about it from this distance. They should be bulletproof if threated right and/or rebuilt properly, but as I see open bellmouths in your pictures my impression is this setup isn't built for durability. IMHO they should at least be covered by something like pipercross foam filters for normal use. As it is far from standard, there's nothing that can be said about fuel consumption or service intervals. As for the looks: The decision to buy is fully up to your taste. I personally don't care about the cafe racer cult. Good luck with the purchase either way!

Yes, I have an 1195cc GSXR1100 (turbo) in a 1980 GS550 frame. Like mentioned this was a lot of work especially on the chainrun, but it fits relatively easy into the frame. Be aware that a simple valve adjustment job means the motor needs to come out. And there's no detachable lower framerails on the 550 like some bigger bikes have.

Oops...

Allrighty! Hope you'll get it running well now so you can make it to Donington still.

Wasn't a complaint just stating facts. Plenty of time for the tickets to get here so no problemo.

Just ordered my Donington weekend pass, will be sent by registered mail apparently. Bike running & tickets fixed: Will be travelling along team Banana so see you all there!

Glad it runs well now Jelle, that was the whole point. Next stop: Donington!

You should ask a grownup to help you Jelle! Just kidding guys

Wouldn't it be easier to find the fault? How difficult can it be. As this is the best set of carbs of all of them you would go backwards in development.

No, didn't see that, awesome! Family is most important, same here. Any plans to come over to Donington on may 6th?

Does it run yet Very pretty plenum btw!

Ofcourse you need to bring them back to standard mains, single springs and needle height, easy to do. Big box o'spares with different sets of drilled slides so you can try which ones are most to your liking.

Ofcourse you can. There are aluminum pins that go through the hinge of the float. There's a visible flat one one side. Use a steel pin (drijver) on the other side to gently tap the pin out. I have my 34mm turbo carbs for sale, they have had all new float seats and needles last year....