bruteforce

Thanks guys for so many replies, good to see the subject took off without me being involved any longer. I've given up on the intercooler idea for a couple of reasons: -I run 15psi max and then only in short bursts as it's a pure roadbike. The engine is now setup so well that 10-12psi gives sufficient power to be honest, and below 15psi an intercooler has no real use if I need believe some experts. -IC=Ugly. It ruins the sleek and simple looks IMHO. -Makes it more complex and adds weight -I believe my painstaking carbtuning will be lost instantly if I add the IC and this "simple addition" could lead to a world of hurt- I've been there before! -There's no apparent reason to fit one- I've ridden with 20psi (bursts) before and it still stays in one piece So thanks again for your help and advice on this subject.

Looks like the same problems as 10 years ago? Only thing I can advise is to go Microsquirt as there are a couple of guys with great experience here. Will set you back some money again I'm afraid...

HI @Maggotbreath, Ofcourse I still have the Yami reg, this works just great. And as there's fuel in the bowls and no boost, the fuelreg has no business at 2000rpm? I'm thinking more about the engine not breathing enough as I don't have a priority breather anymore. Will test this by leaving the linkpipe off and see if the problem goes away.

Look what I've found in an old 1996 mag.... Your mugshot is in it too, do you allow me to show it here screwriverracing? Good that you kept it and never gave up!

Rode it twice today, one 25km run just to try the boostregulator I refitted. I thought it was set at 12psi (the setting I blew my standard testbed-engine up with last year ) but apparently it was set at 17psi. This causes violent boost-surges, just too large torquewaves for this small roadbike imho. AND it runs a bit lean when revs rise. I'll set it up on the dyno with the highest pressure combined with best AFR. So, for the second run of 100km I removed the regulator and ran it at just 7psi. I'm more and more getting used to the idea that I actually have the engine setup right this time. Just a couple of nags: Turbo catchtank just a little too small, could do with a bigger crankcase vent, and bad throttle response below 3000rpm. I know that isn't very important but when I open the throttle say at 2000rpm the engine suddenly runs lean and won't pickup without gentle feed from the throttle grip. Any suggestions?

So, back on track. Header hole shut and several cracks welded. Painted it "heat resistant" black just for the sake of it. Be back on the road tomorrow!

No problem buddy. Proper squish = 1mm IMHO. As you know I have a "special combination" with an early short-stroke GSXR 1052cc motor on Busa pistons. As far as the carbs go, I haven't found a single setup that was exactly the same as another. It seems to be down to plenum sizing/shape, turbo size and where/how the dynamic boostcomp is placed. Feel free to correct me as I'm just guessing this. Why are the slides not opening on standard small holes on my bike but do on someone elses? My last tested 1052cc setup ran 12:1 AFR on 110's and now I need 136's on 1195cc with the same CR, squish and camtiming, and you only need 112.5's. Mysteries of blowthough carbs I guess. But it runs smooth, powerfull and nice so I'm satisfied.

Allright, it works so time for some testing. Went from 110 to 122DJ, still too lean. I'd also fitted slides with small holes but now the motor won't rev out so I'm guessing the slides don't rise. So back to the slides with two big holes and new 136DJ mains. Now it pulls like a train at 11-12 AFR on boost. The engines' response with the new 8.7:1 CR and proper squish is much better and it wants to wheelie all the time. On this wheelbase, my seat-of-the-pants dynamometer says it produces about 200 RWHP (7 psi). Then I do a quick pop down to the shops (yes I'm a poser ) and notice a different kind of noise from the motor... Finally the mild steel header has given in. Well it would be impossible that there wouldn't be anything to do on the bike at all right?

Stainless bung welded in today, sensor fitted, now need to wire all in. I got sent a set with an 8ft cable while the 3ft was ordered and would have been sufficient....

I don't agree Sander. Nothing beats standing next to a bike that is giving all it's got while the only thing you need to do is keep an eye on the numbers and graphs on the screen. When it doesn't break on a dyno it's unlikely to break on the road. Ofcourse I'm lucky to have unlimited access to a dyno! I just need an AFR meter so I can see what's going on before going to the dyno, and as a safety measure ofcourse.

Thanks guys! I've fitted the AFR meter but waiting on automotive connector to power it up. It looks so nice I'm ordering the same look boostmeter/shiftlight too, to replace the low-tech analog boostmeter.

It was not Leblowski, dunno why it says so

Very nice!

Just ordered an AFR onboard meter, don't know why I didn't buy one years ago. Now we do all the testing and adjusting on the dyno which is time consuming. Goal is to get it about right on the road then see what a full-on dyno test will do.

YES! Looking forward to a great weekend! Will travel on the TurboGS

So, checked carbslides and they're already double-drilled with large holes. That can't be the problem then. So went off to my mates house for the 4-gas analyser, and waddayaknow- I adjusted the airscrews the wrong way. It was way rich (really toxic fumes- I mean actually getting sick just standing next to it outside) Now by turning them open 4 turns (in total) the CO and NOX values are within reason and it idles and picks up smooooth! Still rough in transition so very frightened to have it lean running. Coming week= Dyno time! By the way: Still frost-fingery cold to ride...

Still fiddling a bit, wasn't idling well, lots of popping and revs unstable when hot so airscrews turned in a bit. Better now, needs a 4 gas meter to be exact. My buddy has one so will get sorted. Still some oil coming from the compressor housing as I had it overflowed several times before when the scavenging pump wasn't working properly. Also feel that throttle response could be better, dropping down revs is sluggish so may try to fit other slides with bigger ventholes I've stored from another set of carbs. When I built it I geared it for 200mph, silly I know so need to rummage around in the workshop to find that brand new one-tooth-smaller front sprocket. First gear is very tall now, I'm afraid this will leave me behind at the traffic lights with a stalled engine whenever a light 600 challenges me

Very smart looking bike!

A question for the blowthrough users of the "tintop" 34mm carbs off the powerscreen GsX1100F or early slabby 1100. Do you have the standard ventholes in the slides or larger and/or twin holes aka Dynojet kits advise?

First decent day to ride, still cold but dry. Perfect time to run in the rebuilt motor! Only 7psi but it already pulls hard. I'm happy with the crank-end fitted scavenging pump, touching the starter button lets the oillight go out immedeatly.

I know that XJR and owner, it's another Dutchman called Jeroen van den Belt. I was thinking the same with a scoop fitted to it but then aside the engine.

@Gixer1460 Where did you relocate your oilcooler to?

Cool!

@vizman On mine there's a whopping big turbo where your IC is unfortunately @Arttu As it is a 550 the forks are very close to the oil rad. Don't think the IC will fit instead of the oilcooler. That was why I was thinking to fit it on the side of the engine, just chop a piece of linkpipe out and fit the IC in between.