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Ok, I searched and saw that people have done it, but no one said how they got this brass piece out of the stock petcock body. Already tried letting it sit in boiling water to see if the body would expand more than the seal, but I can’t get that thing to budge.

Never had a problem with this petcock in regards to flowing enough fuel for the stock carbs, but it is next to impossible to change from “on” to “res” while riding. The lever is just too short to be useable with gloves on, and it’s a different fit to stock ones.

So I've been working on the bike this afternoon. Went to swap out the single outlet aftermarket petcock that was installed when I bought it for an old spare stock one I had. And of course the stock one just pisses out fuel everywhere. Tried pulling it apart and cleaning it up, but I think it's just been sitting for far too long. Gonna try one of those K&L rebuild kits for right now. Always heard mixed results with them, but I don't feel like installing a pingel or paying for an OEM petcock.

Calipers are on wrong sides

Thanks for letting me know, it's much appreciated.

They're easy enough to pop out of the back of the gauge and take to an auto parts or home improvement store. T5 sounds right, and you can get fancy LED ones now too.

Added spacers below the cam chain idler. It cleared the cover and added enough slack. Has been good to go and zero issues. Thanks

Bike is back together and shifting great. Thanks!

As you can't dry sump the engine Would your engine placement allow a "big wing" sump ala mk1/2 escort rally cars, if the stock oil pan is suitable for modification , it would help prevent oil surge through corners and increase the oil capacity and thus cooling just an idea for you ....

Thanks for the very good explanations. Interesting point on the vent high up from the catch can, i don't remember that being mentioned before. I think you're right, i may as well just go straight away for the mechanical pump, it's not like they're unavailable for these somewhat less go-to for tuboing engines.

nice! No leaking or smoking and running is a good start! (assuming there is actually oil in the engine ) Did the same with the laptop, only ducttape because straps allowed too much movement at speed

First shakedown ride today. Nothing fell off or rattled loose and it didn't puke any oil. Strapped the laptop to the tank and will do some tuning on the road tomorrow. English weather permitting.

I think it's a T5

Oil cooler on the oil return is a bad idea. Apart from space constraints, any restriction will result in smoking. You could theoretically place it after the catch tank, but the amount of energy you will cool down this way is minor anyway: hardly any flow. Better to use an as large as possible aftermarket cooler and use quality oil which is replaced frequently. Thought while typing: you could add cooling ribs on the catch tank. Doesnt hurt but again flow is minimal so improvement is probably not noticeable. I never used a facet pump, what I read is that for some people it works fine, some have them fail frequently. Maybe there are chinesium variants around? I use a crank driven mechanical pump on the crank, works nicely and not that expensive. For me its worth the money that such a key component is reliable. When scavenging, dont forget a breather above engine oil level on a catch tank to avoid vacuum.

Hi there, I'm just wondering if anyone knows the correct bulb for the tachometer on my gsxr 750m. Regards.

Right, i've been working on the header and turbo placement quite some, not many photos to illustrate my attempts but i should get a solid mock up soon A few more questions while i'm at it - this air and oil cooled engine will be encased in bodywork, so not much natural airflow going round it. I have planned more cooling capacity, and while i'm plumbing everything to get it up and running I'm thinking i could maybe fit a (small) oil cooler to the turbo drain line to add a bit of cooling to a hot line of the system ? Although i'd like a mechanical scavenge pump, for the time being i'm just going to use the classic Facet, maybe cooling the oil before it going through the pump would be good too - Holset HE221 parts seem rare, i have no idea what to bolt onto the outlet of the compressor to link to the IC ? I ordered a Vband clamp and flange set and was planning on making a simple stainless intake pipe but the clamp doesn't fit, the flange diameters don't match, the Holset seems specific ? Welding is possible but i think it is better to keep the compressor standard, it makes life easier for future maintenance - had the oil feed banjo screw threaded to put a restrictor jet in, any suggestions as to what size jet to fit ? Thanks

What front end is that?

A bit of work put into that, looks nice

You think the 'crims' haven't got that covered? Cutting out and re-welding panel stamped numbers, welding up and re-stamping VIN numbers - there is VERY little that has been tried and defeated by a crafty crook! Its great that the cloggies check every year but would an average mechanic / MOT tester be able to tell if the numbers / plates / VIN's had been tampered with? Probably not with a time crunched, non detailed look!

You still have the stamped VIN number what needs to be taken care of. And that's something they're really strict on in The Netherlands and here in Tasmania, if that looks dodgy the strip the paint till where ever they see fit. In The Netherlands that's checked every time the vehicle is in for the annual roadworthy test, in Tasmania when the vehicle is also up for a roadworthy test, or a random check from Transport. It looks like it's a more sensitive for fraudulent activities, but it isn't.

Good morning, I just want to say thanks for all of your replies it's very much appreciated .

Immediate thought if nothing else has been changed or played with - Bad Gas ! Either contaminated with water or dirty and has clogged a jet!

Cheers for that it's a big help. I haven't had chance to get round yet and see how he's getting on because im working on my oil cooled chop (with very little electrics ).

Thank you. This makes sense.