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About bluedog59

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    Club Hammer

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    East Midlands

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  1. bluedog59


    With 400 bodywork and graphics.
  2. bluedog59

    Radiator Change

    If Suzuki did increase the cooling capability between the S and R versions, I would suggest 2 main reasons. 1. The R was intended to be more viable for racing and thus extra cooling would be needed. 2. Beam frames are known for restricting airflow over and around the engine and also for containing heat in the area.
  3. The E18 and E39 area (Swiss/Austria) models have BST36ss carbs. ID number 17E3, 110 main jet, 37.5 pilot, jet needle 5FB , needle jet P-3,.
  4. bluedog59

    Vance & Hines powerpak

    This tea or coffee............ any biscuits included ?
  5. bluedog59

    Brake upgrades

    What size discs are you running ?
  6. bluedog59

    Brake upgrades

    Before you go shelling out cash I would totally strip and service what you have. Get the calipers and m/cylinder apart, cleaned (ultrasonic is very good) inspected/replaced and reassembled with a good dose of rubber grease and see how they are then. I did this to my system ( which was, externally, in good condition) and was amazed at the improvement. It went from a "speed adjuster" to actually being a brake. If it's still lacking try the m/cylinder and caliper upgrade route but at least give your present system a chance before you condemn it to the scrap bin.
  7. bluedog59

    Gia 1216

    A most kind and generous offer Sir but I think I'll decline. BTW. Those cases bring 3 letters to mind. Can you guess what they are and what order they go in ? Stunning build.
  8. bluedog59

    Gia 1216

    Worse than that, it's got anodised bolts !!!
  9. bluedog59

    1216 bandit with modded airbox

    If you want to look at "squares under the dyno curve" rather than a peak BHP figure I'd go for the airbox. As mentioned, the airbox is more than just a place to stick the air filter. If you look at the carb to airbox rubber they are basically a velocity stack, nice rolled entry, shallow taper, they project into the airbox (meaning they can draw air from all around them) and crucially, the right length for them to help make the inlet pulses work together. Now look at a pod filter straight on the back of a carb . You've lost all the good stuff and got a solid end to the pod that screws up the intake pulses. A good compromise could be a set of correct length stacks with a big foam filter over and around them but not touching them at the end. But then you've started building an airbox. The airbox also provides a still air chamber for the engine to draw from helps in the harmonics between cylinders (could be why twin pods work better than separates).
  10. bluedog59

    BST38’s oil vs wc

    But is there any way of fitting o/c to w/c ?
  11. bluedog59

    Oil cooler mounting

    I got mine up to temperature on a ride then threw the bike down the road, yokes did the rest. Bent them both back perfectly and barely left a mark.............. on the cooler that is, the rest of the bike needed a bit more than a polish.
  12. bluedog59

    GSXR 7/12 Project Update

    Very tidy.
  13. bluedog59

    Did my bottom end let go?

    You've just had the clutch apart, logic says look there first for the problem.
  14. bluedog59


    With that many turns out on the air screws I be looking at a size or two bigger on the pilot jets. Have you set your float heights ? I've found Bandit carbs to be very fussy about them.
  15. bluedog59

    Heres my rat/cafe racer

    Whatever you're smokin'.............. I'll give it a pass if you don't mind.