Clutch Pushrod

[Roger P.]

Finishing up the 1127 install on my Bandit and I am wondering which clutch pushrod I need to use. Bandit is too short, but putting in the one that came with the engine still seems to leave me with a lot of dead lever travel. It is very slightly bent as well. I am happy to buy a new one if I knew which one I need. I have the ability to make one at work if I had a dimension to work with as well.

The cover is off my B12, MkII engine.

The countershaft succumbed to a pair of carefully sharpened  tungsten carbide tipped concrete drills. The extension off the back of the speed sensor is just under 14mm, so a 9/16" concrete bit sharpened at work was the perfect size to cut the counterbore for it. Bloody hard steel it is!

Tungsten carbide is something they use in coal mining you see...

 

[davecara]

120mm seems to be the number that comes to me, I may be wrong though! Get yourself a length of 6mm steel rod and experiment with it. I had a similar saga using a mk2 bandit cover on a 1052 engine

[fatblokeonbandit]

ive done a few different permutations, b6 mk1 and mk2  cover on 1127 and 1052 and power screen engines and they are all different, I use a bit of 6mm wooden dowel to chop down to get the right length then use that measurement to make a Steele one..

[Roger P.]

Do the cases have to be split to replace the oil seals on the shift shaft or countershaft? I went out to fog the cylinders tonight and found my oil sight glass empty and a large wet spot in the dirt where my fresh oil had migrated. If they need splitting, I think it's sayonara time for this bike. I've had it. Tried to crank it over with a fresh battery and there is a dead short somewhere.

Edited October 12, 2018 by Roger P.

[Dezza]

The shift shaft (I have never typed shift shaft before; shift shaft...) is removable without splitting an engine but you'll have to take the clutch off. It will be easier to get the seal out with no shaft there but most oil seals set in a blind well can be removed by the three self-tapping screws method. Arrange the screws to form an equalateral triangle on the seal and screw each in a bit at a time. When the screws bottom out on the case, each turn will begin to pull the seal out. Keep screwing each screw inwards a bit at a time and the seal should come out eventually The countershaft seal I do not know; it may be set in a ridge in the cases. Try replacing the easy to get out seals first and see if the leak stops.

[eliterate]

On 10/12/2018 at 3:04 AM, Dezza said:

The shift shaft (I have never typed shift shaft before; shift shaft...) is removable without splitting an engine but you'll have to take the clutch off. It will be easier to get the seal out with no shaft there but most oil seals set in a blind well can be removed by the three self-tapping screws method. Arrange the screws to form an equalateral triangle on the seal and screw each in a bit at a time. When the screws bottom out on the case, each turn will begin to pull the seal out. Keep screwing each screw inwards a bit at a time and the seal should come out eventually The countershaft seal I do not know; it may be set in a ridge in the cases. Try replacing the easy to get out seals first and see if the leak stops.

Thanks for this tip. Great advice helped me out with an unrelated issue.