non starter

[philwright]

Thanks for all the good advice...quick question, I have somehow managed to mix up the emulsion tubes, i had intended to put each one back in the carb it came from, will it make any difference?

[Buzuki]

Basicaly is allways good to put each part on his previous place but if you allready mixed them... ,

btw , what is important is to have Perfect sealing on All O-rings , special on those over the needle seats .

[philwright]

Just another quick one...is a smear of Vaseline ok when fitting new carb o rings or should I fit them dry?

[Gixer1460]

Nothing wrong with a bit of Vaseline to help getting big things into smaller holes - used worldwide LOL!

Oh - O rings............... a dab of anything a bit sticky works - grease, vaseline, hylomar etc.

Edited October 16, 2018 by Gixer1460

[jonny1bump]

On 10/14/2018 at 11:55 AM, philwright said:

Thanks for all the good advice...quick question, I have somehow managed to mix up the emulsion tubes, i had intended to put each one back in the carb it came from, will it make any difference?

It's always good not to mix them, but what's done is done and to be fair they probably worn anyhow so won't make that much difference.

[philwright]

Another novice question, please bear with me and thanks for your patience...how do you remove and replace the needle float valve without breaking anything?...how do you get it past the metal tab ?

[Gixer1460]

If its a carb with a plastic float 'cage' - just pry the whole cage up out of the body casting then the needle removal is easier. Be gentle - it is fuel soaked plastic!

[jonny1bump]

Also remember float bowls hold the assembly in place. As said above gentle and patience.

Really need a good source of compressed air to blow down all chambers.

I'm wondering if to tell you to remove pilot screws why you in bits, should do really but these may be stuck and where they set too is really important.

Really would not hurt to get genuine workshop manual and have read then your understand better what we trying to say. They not expensive and such good reference for base model specs.

[philwright]

I bought a factory manual just last week, far more in depth and informative than the Haynes ,I will hopefully get the carbs all reassembled this weekend ,i'm taking my time to make sure everything is as it should be before I fit them back on the bike.

[philwright]

Got the bike running!...just took it for a test flight  and its about 90% running right, theres a bit of reluctance and fluffiness when pulling away and it  needs revving a bit before it clears its throat and takes off but its a lot better than what it was, mid and top range revs cleanly and it flies!....Factory manual says poor low speed running points to pilot jets, i'm reluctant to strip the carbs off again if I can help it though I might have to ,i'm gonna feed it some of that Pro FST carby stuff first and see if theres any improvement...thanks for all the invaluable help from you lads, much appreciated.

[jonny1bump]

Regretting now not telling you to just do it.

You know you should check valve clearances and balance carbs too along with new plugs and air filter.

 

Edited October 22, 2018 by jonny1bump

[philwright]

Yeah I know.. I've already put new plugs /air filter in it, i'll get round to valve clearances and getting the carbs properly balanced asap, ....thanks.

[philwright]

Checked and adjusted valve clearances and bike is now running almost as it should , i'll get round to taking it to my local friendly bike garage to get the carbs properly balanced as soon as I can , I treated it to a dose of that Profi fuel Max carb cleaner and it does seem to have smoothed things out a bit, one thing I have noticed though ,it seems to be drinking quite a bit more juice than it was, I put a fivers worth in and got less than 20 miles on it, I used to get closer to 30ish...not sure what could be causing that?

[jonny1bump]

Check one big fundamental straight away Suzuki rubbish fuel tap. I presume it's vacuum tap, if so make sure it's actually shutting off. Obviously if your riding with this consumption it's not that.

But £5 Not much fuel if your ragging it. If through steady riding check float/ fuel height. 

Also to spark plug check after good play without any cruising.

Again that does not seem that bad consumption.

[Jaydee]

7 hours ago, philwright said:

I put a fivers worth in and got less than 20 miles on it, I used to get closer to 30ish...not sure what could be causing that?

It's called inflation.  You get less fuel for a fiver than 10 years ago. In another 10 years you'll be telling us how you used to get 20 miles from a fiver worth and now you only get 10 miles! 

[philwright]

 

2 minutes ago, Jaydee said:

It's called inflation.  You get less fuel for a fiver than 10 years ago. In another 10 years you'll be telling us how you used to get 20 miles from a fiver worth and now you only get 10 miles! 

Yeah I know...the way petrol is going up every week, maybe i'm overreacting, I fitted new fuel tap before reassembling carbs and refitting it all back together, the old one wasn't working properly in Prime position, and to be fair I have been giving it the bollox ...just to check the carburation...LOL.

[jonny1bump]

There you go answered answered your own question. More right twist less gas in da tank.

Very simple formula.

£5 thou is it worth it, I'd hate to go pub with you.

[wsn03]

Buy a Carbtune balancer....you will recover the cost with your first saved garage bill!

 

Plus those carbs will need redoing after 100 miles, then 500 miles, then every thousand if you develop an anal sense of perfection (which you will).

 

Buy a remote tank from Demon Tweaks. Watch how to do it on YouTube. 

I cant see 1500rpm because it doesnt show on my rev counter, but i have a reasonably good idea/ system now.

 

 

[philwright]

 Just when I thought I had got things sorted, went out for a run this afternoon and the bike starts and runs fine from cold, after about ten miles I hit a bit of traffic and the motor was getting pretty hot and the bike started running like a bag of nails, struggling to pull away in first and second but once in third and gathering speed it smooths out and flies, the bike  normally idles good from cold but when hot this afternoon it was struggling to keep a steady idle and easily stalled...i'm just about ready to pull what hair I;ve got left out!!...what is going on ?

[wsn03]

Mixture setting, too lean? 

2.5 to 3 turns out it should be depending on set up for most oilers, don't know about your model.

Without balancing those carbs you have no starting base in my opinion 

Edited November 2, 2018 by wsn03

[billd]

This may not be a carb problem at all. It is possible that it's a tracking high tension lead on the plug boot. I've had this happen to me, drove me nuts till I found it. I admit this is a bit of a long shot but dead easy to eliminate the possability. Simple wrap each plug boot with one layer of electrical tape in the area that slides down into the head to the plug. Test ride the bike and see if the problem still exsists. Good luck.

[wsn03]

8 hours ago, billd said:

This may not be a carb problem at all. It is possible that it's a tracking high tension lead on the plug boot. I've had this happen to me, drove me nuts till I found it. I admit this is a bit of a long shot but dead easy to eliminate the possability. Simple wrap each plug boot with one layer of electrical tape in the area that slides down into the head to the plug. Test ride the bike and see if the problem still exsists. Good luck.

Can you explain in simple terms what causes this @billd, electrics is something im not very good at understanding.  Thank you

[billd]

In a past life I was an electrician so I will try.  First off it may no be this as I said a bit of a long shot. . With age the rubber boot starts to break down, it's dielectric strength weakens due to the constant high voltage stress it is under and its close proxsimitey to the chassis ground, the cylinder head. When I discovered it on a 916 Ducati I noticed a thin blue line on the side of the boot on closer inspection it was a crack in the boot and the spark for that cylinder would iradically miss fire. In that case at low RPM  and clear up at higher RPM. I realize if you have adjusted or worked on the carbs one would expect that to be the root cause but age or unplugging and handling the spark plug caps or a combination of both could also be the cause. Taping the plug boot adds to its dielectric strength once more, does not allow the easier path to earth rather than the air gap at the spark plug..............sorry to be so long winded about it but .......

[wsn03]

21 minutes ago, billd said:

In a past life I was an electrician so I will try.  First off it may no be this as I said a bit of a long shot. . With age the rubber boot starts to break down, it's dielectric strength weakens due to the constant high voltage stress it is under and its close proxsimitey to the chassis ground, the cylinder head. When I discovered it on a 916 Ducati I noticed a thin blue line on the side of the boot on closer inspection it was a crack in the boot and the spark for that cylinder would iradically miss fire. In that case at low RPM  and clear up at higher RPM. I realize if you have adjusted or worked on the carbs one would expect that to be the root cause but age or unplugging and handling the spark plug caps or a combination of both could also be the cause. Taping the plug boot adds to its dielectric strength once more, does not allow the easier path to earth rather than the air gap at the spark plug..............sorry to be so long winded about it but .......

Thank you for such an informed reply. Learn something new every day. I wanted to understand for general future reference for any bike.

[jonny1bump]

On 11/2/2018 at 5:27 PM, philwright said:

 Just when I thought I had got things sorted, went out for a run this afternoon and the bike starts and runs fine from cold, after about ten miles I hit a bit of traffic and the motor was getting pretty hot and the bike started running like a bag of nails, struggling to pull away in first and second but once in third and gathering speed it smooths out and flies, the bike  normally idles good from cold but when hot this afternoon it was struggling to keep a steady idle and easily stalled...i'm just about ready to pull what hair I;ve got left out!!...what is going on ?

Are you sure valve clearances are correct.

Ive had dyna coils play up when hot. 

Heat gun on exhaust when it plays up might help then start swapping coils left to right see if fault moves your know for certain if ignition then.

Edited November 4, 2018 by jonny1bump