Gsxr1100k fork oil?

[wraith]

Ok, may be a daft question this  

Going to be doing the forks seals on the forks on my kat, which has gsxr1100k forks fitted.

Always thought they seemed a bit soft in some ways, and I know under heavy braking the sliders will move apx 2.5-3" but seem to bounce to full extension over bumps sometimes. (yes have played with the settings )

So instead of putting the SAE5 oil in, should i put a SAE7.5 or even a SAE10 in ? That's the question. 

Got new seals and bushes and thinking of getting some Progressive springs? ( always helped with the air cooled forks )

PS. the last seals (OEM and SAE5 oil) have only lasted about 2000 miles max, yes the fork tubes are good with no pitting etc. 

Thanks.

[Swiss Toni]

Play with the oil first. Cheap option. If still not happy, try the progressive (or linear) springs. How about trying some of those 'Emulator' doohickeys??? 

[wraith]

7 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:

or linear springs. How about trying some of those 'Emulator' doohickeys??? 

???

These forks are new tec for me  use to more gs/gsx forks, and putting old 2p on the top of the springs to make them stiffer 

So what's Emulator ? And or linear springs, I know being a bit derrr 

 

[Swiss Toni]

A linear-rate spring is evenly wound from top to bottom so that the force (road surface bumps and potholes, acceleration and braking) remains the same from the initial input right through to when the spring won’t compress any further. They come in hard, and soft versions, but they retain the same force throughout their length!

A progressive or dual-rate spring is wound closer at one end and further apart at the other. So, the more the spring is compressed, the more it resists. 

 

The Emulators? Better wait for FBOAB. He fitted them to std. B12 forks, and was impressed with them. 

 

[Swiss Toni]

As a PS to the above. I should also have said, Progressive springs act like std. springs for the initial part of their travel. Then they become harder to compress (progressively). 

[wraith]

Nice one  always learning  

I will see it @fatblokeonbanditcomes along to tell me about the Emulators 

Edited May 25, 2018 by wraith

[Simbec1863]

Got them in my RGV forks,YSS make them, they regulate oil  transfer through the forks under braking and the like and are a cheaper option to sort traditional forks feeling of bottoming out, they make them behave a bit more modern.They offer modern shim and valve type operation.Feel much better. @gsxr884can supply them to 

They look like this and drop into the fork bottoms.

Other more knowledgeable folk will provide more info I'm sure,I'm about to fit some into my slabbie next, so I can say I'm impressed.

 

[nlovien]

bunch of stuff in yir post

fork seals that don't last is often a sign of worn bush's - often a good idea to renew these with new seals

generally changing oil weight has a pro and con - pro = heavier oil will improve your rebound, down side is it will also increase your compression damping - so watch out for a bit of harshness in the fork response - i.e. treat this as your stop point

a "springy" rebound maybe also affected by the oil level - not enough air gap = air spring - maybe this is linked to failed fork seals

are these forks cartridge internals ? - dunno  - you may have the washer stack that controls damping sticking open / the belvel shaped washers have gone soft and flattened out etc..  i.e. maybe worth getting into the detail measurement of these things when you strip it

springs - progressives are a good general all round improvement and click n buy available - getting the right spring stiffness for your weight is better - but finding a UK supplier at a decnet price ? don't know - would like to know - I get mine from the states ( when someone I know dares go there on holiday ) Sonic springs are generally $85 a set and they also have a handy "calc my required springs"

[wraith]

Nice one all  some good info there  

Got new bush's for the forks as well as seals but when I get in the shed and strip the forks down i will do some measurements of all parts 

The bike is only for road use so over stiff forks won't be to good  

Will have a look into the Emulators, I've always put progressive springs in fork and like the response you get with them, but always up for trying something new 

Just put a gsxr1000k1 rear shock on the bike and that's made the back end 100% better.

The reason I'm looking into this now after so long after building the bike, is around here where I'm living now the roads are a lot more demanding on the handling comparing to the roads in Derbyshire 

[Swiss Toni]

Aye, yer up in 't North now lad, 'y knaa! 

[wraith]

Wey I man  like, very canny up here (still learning the lingo) 

Northumberland A689 Hartside road

Must say some for the roads up here makes the cat & fiddle and snake pass feel like a nice Sunday pootle 

Edited May 25, 2018 by wraith

[dougw]

1100K forks have cartridges as standard.

I have some Maxton fettled forks in my 11K , but they where done to race spec for the young me and are a bit harsh.

On my "to do list" is to see if I can fit the cartridges from a set of Showa 750J forks into the Kayaba 1100K forks.

Forks rarely get the attention they need to keep them working well, but a good clean , new bushes and oil goes a long way (bushes usually well past there best after 10,000 miles, any speckling in the grey ptfe coating causes extra friction and harsher action).

If you can manage it take one of Reactive Suspensions  courses and rebuild your own forks while there, Gareth is a top bloke and will have all the bits for the rebuild ready on the course if you let him know.

Did the forks on my TL1000 with him, noticeably different (better) afterwards, and learnt loads in the process.

 

[wraith]

59 minutes ago, dougw said:

1100K forks have cartridges as standard.

I have some Maxton fettled forks in my 11K , but they where done to race spec for the young me and are a bit harsh.

On my "to do list" is to see if I can fit the cartridges from a set of Showa 750J forks into the Kayaba 1100K forks.

Forks rarely get the attention they need to keep them working well, but a good clean , new bushes and oil goes a long way (bushes usually well past there best after 10,000 miles, any speckling in the grey ptfe coating causes extra friction and harsher action).

If you can manage it take one of Reactive Suspensions  courses and rebuild your own forks while there, Gareth is a top bloke and will have all the bits for the rebuild ready on the course if you let him know.

Did the forks on my TL1000 with him, noticeably different (better) afterwards, and learnt loads in the process.

 

Forks all done end of May  and are handling very well.