scott-s Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 While I have the engine out, there's no better time to adjust the valves. Do you replace the valve cover gaskets and the four gaskets under the spark plug holes every time? I watched a video online and he smeared a thin coat of sealant on the gaskets/sealing surfaces. Thoughts on this? I also removed the oil cooler to pull the engine. Should I always replace the two o-rings and crush washers? Any other tips or tricks while I'm in there? Quote Link to comment
colinworth79 Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 If the rubber gaskets still feel soft then they should be ok to reuse . Only need to put a small amount of sealant around the 4 half moon cut out on the side of the head . Be careful not to over tighten the bolts there only m7 and go in aluminium . Quote Link to comment
wraith Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 As said above if rubber seal is still soft you can reuse it, I don't like using gasket sealer but if you clean all surfaces you could put a small smeer on the half moons (seen so meany engines with strings of sealants around the oil filter strainer) Always replace the oil line crush washers and for the cost the o-rings Quote Link to comment
scott-s Posted February 9, 2018 Author Share Posted February 9, 2018 Can someone walk me through the cam chain tensioner? I picked up a manual and it only covers the removal, disassembly, reassembly and installation. Surely there's just a normal adjustment procedure? Or, does the adjustment require removing it? That seems a little out of the ordinary to me. What's the normal "tune up" adjustment for the cam chain tensioner? Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted February 9, 2018 Share Posted February 9, 2018 If this is a GSXR based engine there is no 'adjustment procedure'. Once the cams are in and chain mounted, the plunger is pushed in to tension by holding the 'locker' block up. Rotate the inlet cam to tension chain and guide and insert the adjuster, then the chain can be slackened by opp. rotating the cam and the adjustment plunger will extend automatically to remove the slack. Rotate the crank a couple of times - making sure the cam timing is correct first - so all slack is taken up. That's it, as slack occurs the plunger extends one notch at a time to remove it and the locker block stops it backing off! BTW only done this twice - all my engines get manual adjusters eventually! Quote Link to comment
scott-s Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 So in other words, as long as I don't remove it, leave it alone! Quote Link to comment
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