Sheep Posted April 19, 2017 Posted April 19, 2017 Ok,..probably being paranoid but I have done roughly 350 miles on a new forged 1230 motor in the old EFE,on its second mineral oil change to date,carbs running almost perfect,ran at various speeds through the 'box,acceleration and throttle-shut blah-de-blah...in fact I haven't been pampering it but simply using it sensibly but a little harder recently as it seems to be getting smoother and 'settling' in.(Probably no more than 7500rpm so far).Compression reads 160 psi give or take 5 in all four I know recommendation say 500 miles or so for run in but I thought I'd ask now but in an earlier post I mentioned I was experiencing blue/white smoke on cold start-ups which mainly point to valve seals but everything from the barrels up have been renewed including APE seals.It does not smoke for the first 2-3 seconds but then a bluey smoke emits from the pipe after that for around 15-20 seconds at a guess.I normally pull away soon after starting as not to annoy the neighbours and I leave a small cloud behind me but by the time I have ridden 50 yards its all but cleared up.It does not smoke after that unless I rev the motor when stationary but then its dark grey (fuel) and only then very slightly.I see nothing at all behind me when riding. I guess I could have damaged a seal when putting them on which if it is that then I am not worried really but do you any of you peeps think its anything else...Katamangler did say it could be simply the forged pistons which I have heard/read about on various other bike/forums which makes sense..it is using oil at the moment but then it would do if its burning it...the first oil change showed no swarf/debris but a little pearl which I'm told is normal. Am I just worrying about nothing or should I give it more time??...(I will consider pushing the bike away from campers at Donny as not to smoke you out ) Quote
wraith Posted April 19, 2017 Posted April 19, 2017 As you say valve seals, try just starting it up and ticking over for a short time then check your plugs and see if they are oily or wet, or before you start it up remove the plugs and see if there is excess of oil in the bores. Quote
Sheep Posted April 19, 2017 Author Posted April 19, 2017 I did look down the plugs on one occasion Wraith before starting it and found some oil on the (MTC) piston crowns,3 and 1 if I remember correctly.It was not pooling but more of a thin layer on top.However,next time I rode it and cooled it I noticed the crowns were dry,well,the ones I could see as I had the tank on this time.I did have a little caked on dross on the plug of #3 and I noticed a touch of white soot in the exhaust port which could be a sign of burnt anti-freeze (not applicable) or other non fuel burn off,well that's what the 'net says lol... I wonder if I removed the plug lead from the suspect cylinder before start up would help ie it wouldn't burn the oil if no fire present...but that will only work if I knew exactly which set of valves were weeping,if any.... Quote
Gixer1460 Posted April 19, 2017 Posted April 19, 2017 I'd say its a bit early to diagnose a fault, personally i'd lean on it a bit more to get the rings sealing - I bought a 10 year old / 7000 mile old bike that had glazed bores as it had been 'baby treated' when running in and always smoked on start up - after a couple of years abuse and stretched oil changes it slowly came round and stopped smoking and using oil - 45000 miles up! Wiseco rings seem more susceptible to sealing / wear in my experience. APE seals are good, not as good as OEM but shouldn't be bad after 350 miles running. Rag it a bit and report back? 1 Quote
Sheep Posted April 19, 2017 Author Posted April 19, 2017 (edited) When you say rag it does that mean I should use the whole rev range say what now!?? Gixer1460 Edited April 19, 2017 by Sheep OSS auto correct of user name lol Quote
KATANAMANGLER Posted April 19, 2017 Posted April 19, 2017 You should avoid babying if you want the rings to bed in and not glaze. Also remember these are forged pistons not cast they take a bit longer to get up to temperature and expand. Mine always smokes on start up but tightens up after it's run. 1 Quote
Sheep Posted April 19, 2017 Author Posted April 19, 2017 I reckon I have been using it right,I used it like you said Katanamanger,normally and not letting it labour....I actually thought I have been TOO keen to twist the wrist...mind you it does seem to running better the more I use it...Maybe I am being paranoid....I don't need any more excuse to give it some...Since having it back on the road I haven't stopped grinning! 1 Quote
Sheep Posted April 21, 2017 Author Posted April 21, 2017 One more thing before I leave this....do you recommend to keep using mineral oil after the '500 mile' break in period to give it more chance to bed or go straight to semi??... Quote
johnr Posted April 21, 2017 Posted April 21, 2017 katanamangler built his using ape seals, iirc they didnt last 18 months before they failed. stock seals would last longer. 1 Quote
KATANAMANGLER Posted April 22, 2017 Posted April 22, 2017 Gives you something to do in I8 months... 3 Quote
Bubba1135 Posted April 22, 2017 Posted April 22, 2017 Get on warm it up and kick it's teeth in , mine used to do the same but seems to be fine now, I still run it on mineral too. 1 Quote
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