Ignition switch issues

[rideordive2ss]

I just bought a replacement ignition switch but they sent me the wrong one.. I didn't have time to deal with a return so I cut the connecter (it had male connection and needed female) (also this switch was the diffence between a gsx and a gsxr ) for the life of me I'm losing my mind.  I have everything hooked up and everything seems functional... Drove it around for a couple days and a slightly exposed wire shorted and popped my braker.  So I decided to rewire it better then I did during my rush job.  But as I pulled the wires apart I screwed up and lost the correct connection so I had to re trace it.. I am confident I have it set right  but now I keep blowing the fuse under the sear a 10amp that reads "tail"    I just don't get it everything seems correct like I had it originally when I firsthooked it all up.   

 

I feel like I have a short in the line somewhere so I'm looking now but does anyone know what could be the issue If it's not a short?

[Dezza]

What bike is it and do you have the original switch?

[wraith]

Brown wire ?

[Upshotknothole]

The ignition controls the running lights, the "brown wire." Something is wired up incorrectly or you have a short in the connection. There's only 4 wires, and they're all color coded.

 

 

[rideordive2ss]

8 hours ago, Dezza said:

What bike is it and do you have the original switch?

91 gsxr750  yes I have the original switch.

[Dezza]

When on, the red connects to the orange and the brown connects to the grey, forming two independent circuits. The OEM switch has a 'park' function that connects the red to the brown (I think), meaning the park lights will be on when the key is removed. Many pattern switches are of appalling quality and if you have the wrong switch the on, off, park functions may not be as they should be. The OEM switch will come apart (do this in an old washing up bowl so you don't lose anything) so you can clean and inspect the contacts and resolder the wires. Buy some crimpers and use Japanese connectors like OEM so when the plug is split there aren't live terminals sticking out. Use a multi meter to test the switches. Try and fix the OEM switch if possible before using a cheap pattern one. The oem switches are of much better quality than even the best pattern ones.

[rideordive2ss]

15 hours ago, Dezza said:

When on, the red connects to the orange and the brown connects to the grey, forming two independent circuits. The OEM switch has a 'park' function that connects the red to the brown (I think), meaning the park lights will be on when the key is removed. Many pattern switches are of appalling quality and if you have the wrong switch the on, off, park functions may not be as they should be. The OEM switch will come apart (do this in an old washing up bowl so you don't lose anything) so you can clean and inspect the contacts and resolder the wires. Buy some crimpers and use Japanese connectors like OEM so when the plug is split there aren't live terminals sticking out. Use a multi meter to test the switches. Try and fix the OEM switch if possible before using a cheap pattern one. The oem switches are of much better quality than even the best pattern ones.

Oem the key busted off deep inside

 

So if I'm understanding you right  the time I had the new switch hooked up and key off was on key on was off was probably the correct wiring then just a shjt switch? I wonder Why it worked fine for a full day off of and ons and rides before I got the great idea to wire it better now have my fuse popping problem.

[Upshotknothole]

Those aftermarket ignitions tend to be garbage. If you still have the original broken key and ignition, a good locksmith should be able to make you a new key.

[Dezza]

Make a plug that bypasses the ignition and then you can determine if the new switch is faulty or not. All you need to do is create two loops that connect back on themselves. These four-wire switches are really simple to work with. It's not like you're re-wiring the space shuttle .

[Upshotknothole]

7 hours ago, Dezza said:

Make a plug that bypasses the ignition and then you can determine if the new switch is faulty or not. All you need to do is create two loops that connect back on themselves. These four-wire switches are really simple to work with. It's not like you're re-wiring the space shuttle .

This right here. My first GSXR was a former race bike and all it had was a dummy plug for the ignition. If any fuses pop, you have a short somewhere else in the harness.