1978 GS1000 Gear shift cam problem

[Baz1954]

Hi all new member although I visit occasionally.

I abandoned my '78 gs1000 around 1985 in pieces in an old shed. Was going to turn her into a drag bike. Then work got in the way but now retired. Anyway about 18 months ago I decided to get her back to former glory. To cut a restoration story short I have a problem after totally rebuilding engine and putting it in the frame.

I powered her up and had no neutral indicator light. After checking I was getting power through to neutral switch on the left hand side of the bike ( i.e. the left hand side of the gear shift cam (spool)) I found when I removed the contact switch that the spring loaded pin that allows power from the indicator lamp to go to earth to complete circuit when in neutral was sitting at 2 o'clock whereas the contact in the switch sits at about 5 o'clock.

I did not disturb anything on the shift spool, just inserted into casing, fit the spring loaded stopper seating it in it's recess then fitted the shift spring loaded stop plate.

Dropped the sump to confirm above, all looks ok. Connected a battery and just using starter motor ran up and down through the gears ( no fuel tank fitted) all seems ok.

So I just don't understand how the end of the spool is out of sync with the switch. Don't really want to strip the engine again, wondering if I missed something and there is an in-situ fix.

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

 

[TonyGee]

is the bike definitely in neutral and not in a false neutral ?    

[Baz1954]

Thank you TonyG for your reply. There will be delay with replies as I'm in Oz.

Rotating engine by hand in neutral all gears that should are turning.  When I fitted the shift cam I positioned the "counterbore" under the cam spring loaded detent. I did not check if the neutral pin was in the correct position as I did not disturb anything on the cam (i.e.cam stopper).

It's as if I have to rotate the cam clockwise from 2 o'clock to 5 o'clock when viewed from the neutral switch side. If I do that by putting her in 1st not only does the neutral pin move to about 4 o'clock but the input shaft  fork is flush with the end of it's operating channel/groove.

Hope that makes sense. May try to upload pics.

[Baz1954]

Quote

Image of cam in neutral position as seen by detent. Image of sensor position. Spring loaded pin at 2 o'clock should be around 4-5 o'clock position (red Mark).

 

[Baz1954]

This is a Hail Mary  but I'm wondering if the neutral end of the shift cam is a press fit into the cam body and may have been disturbed into the position shown above.

If anyone has access to one I would appreciate a check if not I will have to buy one as I cannot figure out this problem.

Thanks.

[rodneya]

Is there a part number on your neutral switch?

According to the parts fisch the switch should look like this. which puts the pickup in the correct position.

[TonyGee]

1 hour ago, rodneya said:

Is there a part number on your neutral switch?

According to the parts fisch the switch should look like this. which puts the pickup in the correct position.

good shout 

[Baz1954]

Yes guys, I have a New Old Stock switch from Suzuki (Australia),the original had a crack in it. As you point out both bottom images in replies show correct orientation of pickup (5 o'clock) whereas the spring loaded contact on the end of the shift cam is sitting at around 2 o'clock.

None of it is making any sense: the cam is in neutral, I can shift thru the gears ok. That's why I'm wondering if the cam is not one complete machined item and that the sensor end with the spring loaded contact pin is a press fit and I may have disturbed it somehow to the 2 o'clock position.

Thank you both for the feedback. 

[rodneya]

2 hours ago, Baz1954 said:

Yes guys, I have a New Old Stock switch from Suzuki (Australia),the original had a crack in it. As you point out both bottom images in replies show correct orientation of pickup (5 o'clock) whereas the spring loaded contact on the end of the shift cam is sitting at around 2 o'clock.

None of it is making any sense: the cam is in neutral, I can shift thru the gears ok. That's why I'm wondering if the cam is not one complete machined item and that the sensor end with the spring loaded contact pin is a press fit and I may have disturbed it somehow to the 2 o'clock position.

Thank you both for the feedback. 

The switches in the pictures are showing the side that goes in. The pickup on both pics is at 2 o'clock in both as far as I can see.

[Baz1954]

No, I'm afraid not. The images above show the external view. The 'dot' you can see is the back of the contact which has a greater surface area for contact with the spring loaded pin.

[Baz1954]

Here is image of internal side of switch + 'O' ring.

[rodneya]

23 minutes ago, Baz1954 said:

Here is image of internal side of switch + 'O' ring.

That is the outside of the switch with the electrical wire running from one side to the other. The spring loaded pin cant be running over those bumps all the time

 

This is a pic of a used one off Eblag and you can clearly see the ring on the switch where the spring loaded contact has been running against the switch.

Flip it around and you will be good

[Baz1954]

Oh dear, Just mounted as you directed and hey presto! neutral light came on. Also gave myself an uppercut. I had thought about this way but didn't think it correct as a large part of the contact is exposed.

Anyway thanks for the responses. I can progress now.

I'm putting her back to original and will post pick when finished. Taking a long time, for example I sourced an original exhaust out of Houston Texas and it needs to be re-chromed.

[Gixer1460]

Is that an aftermarket switch - OEM ones are usually 'potted' with epoxy where wire/s connect to water / grime proof?

[Baz1954]

Definitely OEM. Still have the original (broken) and it does not have any sealant. I was thinking that I will seal it. So in the end I was thinking too deeply and buggered myself up. Good thing you guys are here.

Thank you for your response.

[TonyGee]

4 hours ago, Baz1954 said:

Oh dear, Just mounted as you directed and hey presto! neutral light came on. Also gave myself an uppercut. I had thought about this way but didn't think it correct as a large part of the contact is exposed.

Anyway thanks for the responses. I can progress now.

I'm putting her back to original and will post pick when finished. Taking a long time, for example I sourced an original exhaust out of Houston Texas and it needs to be re-chromed.

we all have a brain fart moment sometimes 

[Baz1954]

LOL, certainly do, been that long since I stripped her down. the manual I'm using is as old as the bike. Most things are obvious and manual not needed other than for dimensional specs, torque settings and the like but that just did my head in. Did a total do over on my TLR no problem other than checking specs.