Rods 4 boost

[rerb]

Just sold my s4 so now it's timing to really focus on the bike - specifically in beefing up the motor. I'm looking for bottom end components to bulletproof it for high boost (18-20 psi, i'm at 15 right now). I know fatigue is usually what causes rods to go, so I don't want to pile on the miles on stock rods.

So far I see carillo rods, H-beams, but their website says it fits '97-'98 GSF1200 crank, but mine is a 99. Is there actually a difference between them? I thought they had the same motor.

I also see maxpeedingrods, but they are only advertised for 9k rpms and I've heard poor things about the brand. Of course the other option is 'busa rods, but a proper set of H beams would be better. One thing I haven't found is I-beam rods, which I was told were better for boost. For the guys here running 300+ with aftermarket rods, which ones would you recommend? Custom made is always an option but that would be a bit out of my budget. 

I also see APE used to make race cranks, but has discontinued them. My motor has 68k miles on it, would the stock crank be fine with a balance and polishing? Thanks. 

[Gixer1460]

Only got my own experience to go by - use Carillo if you want bulletproof. More people are using the Maxspeeding rods and I haven't heard of any more catastrophic failures than 'usual' - thing to watch for is use of fake ARP rod bolts which do fail. Turbo's are pretty soft on rods IMO - i've seen a lot more failures due to oil starvation / delivery failure than pure fatigue. 

After 68k miles i'd give it a PROPER clean (the amount of shite that collects in oil passages is unreal), check journals for wear (across width and around) fit new bearings - job done. Polishing waste of time unless carving chunks off, balance maybe (especially if changing rods / pistons) but hardly noticeable as they are fairly good from the factory. After a clean, a Magnaflux inspection not a bad idea though!

[rerb]

16 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

Only got my own experience to go by - use Carillo if you want bulletproof. More people are using the Maxspeeding rods and I haven't heard of any more catastrophic failures than 'usual' - thing to watch for is use of fake ARP rod bolts which do fail. Turbo's are pretty soft on rods IMO - i've seen a lot more failures due to oil starvation / delivery failure than pure fatigue. 

After 68k miles i'd give it a PROPER clean (the amount of shite that collects in oil passages is unreal), check journals for wear (across width and around) fit new bearings - job done. Polishing waste of time unless carving chunks off, balance maybe (especially if changing rods / pistons) but hardly noticeable as they are fairly good from the factory. After a clean, a Magnaflux inspection not a bad idea though!

good advice, APE seems to do some crank services for testing trueness and balancing, as well as magnaflux testing. I am assuming their rods will work for a '99 even though they list it for '93 to '98. 

[no class]

93-98 are for wc motors ….. there is no difference in cranks / rods for 1127 and B12 …same big/small ends …. 

[mikeyd]

Always magnaflux the crank (68k miles!) Don't know about Bandit cranks, but 1127 cranks always showed something after mag, still used most of them. If you are in the states, also look up Marine crankshaft = great work.  Always Carrillo H rods. Also,  Big fan of dry film coatings on the bearings too, look up Calico coatings. I can tell you a few missed shifts - into the rev limiter, bike coming off the 2 stage at the line - sending the bike into the rev limiter, boost creeping to 32-33 lbs, never a problem. Shifting at 10,500. I pull my motor apart at the end of every season and don't really have to.  Maybe luck, maybe a lot of oil changes, but always top $$ parts, and a billet crank., But You won't find anymore around the states.

[rerb]

On 4/29/2022 at 5:16 AM, mikeyd said:

Always magnaflux the crank (68k miles!) Don't know about Bandit cranks, but 1127 cranks always showed something after mag, still used most of them. If you are in the states, also look up Marine crankshaft = great work.  Always Carrillo H rods. Also,  Big fan of dry film coatings on the bearings too, look up Calico coatings. I can tell you a few missed shifts - into the rev limiter, bike coming off the 2 stage at the line - sending the bike into the rev limiter, boost creeping to 32-33 lbs, never a problem. Shifting at 10,500. I pull my motor apart at the end of every season and don't really have to.  Maybe luck, maybe a lot of oil changes, but always top $$ parts, and a billet crank., But You won't find anymore around the states.

I'd sell my car to find a nice billet crank...