Quickshifter

[george 1100]

12 hours ago, dupersunc said:

40 m/s delay works fine, not played with it. A mate was have issues with accidentally activating the kill, set it to 40m/s like mine and it's been fine.

 

I use the Ignitech load sensing switch, it's about £65 Euro.  Works fine.  Using the load sensing type of trigger is the only way to go.

It's easy to wire, though a bit gets lost in Ignitechs CZ to English translation.

Can the switch be used and wired as a stand alone unit or does it need to be used with the ignition module?

[MeanBean49]

4 hours ago, george 1100 said:

Can the switch be used and wired as a stand alone unit or does it need to be used with the ignition module?

No, you would still need a control module like most quickshifters.

Bonus of ignitech is its all in one box

[dupersunc]

3 hours ago, MeanBean49 said:

No, you would still need a control module like most quickshifters.

Bonus of ignitech is its all in one box

What he said ^^^.

Ignitech comes enabled and with software to map ignition, advance/ revs, and you can add tps to map throttle position/advance.

Also has pit limiter function, and the quickshifter function which can also be adjusted and set up via their software.

An ignition unit, quickshifter switch, software and download lead, same as I have was about £200 delivered.

I built a complete bike loom from scratch, but for a stock loom Ignitech will supply an adaptor harness to any oil cooled bike for about £15, the quick shifter switch would require a very simple bit of wiring in to this sub harness, and enabling it by ticking a box in the soft ware. No doubt Ignitech could supply this already done if requested.

[george 1100]

Great info, good features , cheers. Seems like good value. I have a race loom that I made so I could easily adapt it

[Kamikaze]

Yep. I have to say value for money u can’t beat Ignitech. 

They have so many features it’s almost like riding a modern bike.  
 

But like the boys said. U need to replace your OEM ignition box for it to work. 
 

here’s a few vids on the kit on my track bike and road bike 

 

Edited March 20, 2021 by Kamikaze

[Kamikaze]

You will need to buy new link rods, u can still use your original rearsets if u wish. 
 

This is the qik shifter from Ignitech. 
Its available in either push / pull or  dual. Depending on what you prefer to use. Race shift or road shift. 
 

But one thing is certain, u will not be able to down shift without the clutch. The old girls don’t have auto blippers like the modern bikes. 
 

So cutting the ignition going down gears without a squirt of gas is practically impossible to master and pointless to be honest. Unless u go air shifter. 
 

There is a kit available I’ve seen that attaches to the carbs throttle linkage using a servo that does blip the throttle with a qik shifter. But at 800 bucks it’s not worth it in my opinion.
 

As u can see. My road bike has std shift pattern and my race bike has race shift  pattern  

Edited March 20, 2021 by Kamikaze

[Kamikaze]

Normal Road shift (push qik shift actuator)

No clutch, no throttle change

 

 

 

Even thou you cant tell from the vid, this bike has race shift and is a pull system, but this all depends on the original bikes shift linkage system and what type of shift pattern you want, it can be the complete opposite on another model bike.

 

This also has the pit limiter function enabled and set to 3000 rpm

 

Edited March 21, 2021 by Kamikaze
grammar mistake

[george 1100]

Good info 

Is there any way to check the true advance with this ignition because the pickup plate has slight tolerance and so does the rotor

[Kamikaze]

5 minutes ago, george 1100 said:

Good info 

Is there any way to check the true advance with this ignition because the pickup plate has slight tolerance and so does the rotor

yeah give us a sec, and ill upload a video

[Kamikaze]

Qik menu of ignitech....sorry ill do a more detailed video later.

My mate did the video a few weeks back

 

 

[george 1100]

Hmm, I could tinker with that for days....

[Kamikaze]

1 hour ago, george 1100 said:

Hmm, I could tinker with that for days....

It’s a great bit of kit to bring the old girls into the 21st century. 
In my opinion Dyna2000 is outdated now, and suffer problems from vibrations and old tech.
 

For the same price you can install stick coils and have a fully functioning programmable box for all sorts of applications. 
All my bikes have been converted now. 
 

MBE is another very good system made in the UK.

Jack frost (Holeshot Racing)  uses this kit a lot with his drag bikes and customer turbo set ups. 

 

https://www.sbdmotorsport.co.uk/MBE9A4I-mbe9a4i-ecu--ignition-only-up-to-4-cylinders.html

 

[dupersunc]

On 3/21/2021 at 6:48 AM, george 1100 said:

Good info 

Is there any way to check the true advance with this ignition because the pickup plate has slight tolerance and so does the rotor

It would be worth checking the actual timing with a strobe and your own tdc marks.  I have read that the ignitech maps are a little bit out, in that numbers on the screen for advance aren't correct.  

This matches my experience. I run my motors, 1216cc, hi comp, with a lot of extra advance,  5-7 degrees between 7000-1100rpm, with no signs of detonation, and feel like I could wind some more advance in. 

[george 1100]

7 hours ago, dupersunc said:

It would be worth checking the actual timing with a strobe and your own tdc marks.  I have read that the ignitech maps are a little bit out, in that numbers on the screen for advance aren't correct.  

This matches my experience. I run my motors, 1216cc, hi comp, with a lot of extra advance,  5-7 degrees between 7000-1100rpm, with no signs of detonation, and feel like I could wind some more advance in. 

How is it possible to check timing on a bike using a strobe? Drill a hole in the timing cover and mount a timing wheel ? Possible I guess?

Out of curiosity, are  there any stand alone quick shifters for oilers? I have no issues with the oem ignition. I run +4 advance, stick coils and a second gen cdi in my slabby and she revs beautifully.

[Kamikaze]

23 minutes ago, george 1100 said:

How is it possible to check timing on a bike using a strobe? Drill a hole in the timing cover and mount a timing wheel ? Possible I guess?

Out of curiosity, are  there any stand alone quick shifters for oilers? I have no issues with the oem ignition. I run +4 advance, stick coils and a second gen cdi in my slabby and she revs beautifully.

Mmmmmmmm not sure about stand alone shifters being able to cut ignition without changing the CDI box except for HM.

Any qik shifter will work on the oilers,  Dynojet, translogic even ignitech sell there own shifters. But i dont think anyone has built the tech built into the shifter for it to work except HM
 

HM quickshifter plus range has a lcd display on the shifter rod to adjust kill time and change the shift pattern to race if required, and is plumbed into the existing connectors (for modern bikes) Its a strain gauge which means there is no moving rods or parts inside the qikshifter, its all electronically controlled.

 

So theoretically you could make this work....but at nearly £ 400 it works out more expensive.

[Kamikaze]

this is the most common model HM qikshifter. Comes in a few models. 
 

Then you have this for the recent modern bikes that incorporate shift rods on the actual shaft. 
 

http://hmquickshifter.com/quickshifter-plus/

[dupersunc]

I've got a translogic QS on an oil boiler  that I picked up cheap, but I'm not impressed with it.

The ignitech is the cheapest QS I've found, plusyou get a free programmable ignition with it.

As for checking timing, yes you'd have to put your own tdc mark on the trigger and rig up a temporary cover for it 

[george 1100]

Apparently Annitori make a standalone unit for 240usd with rod which is not a bad option or I rip out the HM one from my cbr and adapt it if possible or go with the Ignitech. Decisions ...... The cbr is basically a commute bike and I rarely use the quickshift. 

[Kamikaze]

4 hours ago, george 1100 said:

Apparently Annitori make a standalone unit for 240usd with rod which is not a bad option or I rip out the HM one from my cbr and adapt it if possible or go with the Ignitech. Decisions ...... The cbr is basically a commute bike and I rarely use the quickshift. 

id use the HM from the CBR and see how u go. ur half way there.