Dukeman Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 Hi - hoping for some guidance.... GSXR1100 - 86 (G) 2 litres plus petrol in my crank case, was out riding and thought hell I only put gas in this the other day..... WTF. Anyway at home I noticed the level was way over filled, I have drained the oil, changed the filter and have removed the carbs. Carbs in the vice, external tank hooked up, no leak! Not that means anything as the pressure from a full tank maybe more than my small tank. New needle and seat time, also all O-rings and shaft seals.... to be purchased. How do I set the bowl float height. Any tips to tuning these things? The steel spring in side the airbox rubber was missing in number 4 - which by the way was causing issue with fuel, or lack of fuel from time to time. I can order a new spring ring it appears so thats good. The air box rubber are ok, a couple of small cracks on the out lip where the carbs enter, very small. Worth replacing the rubber tubes in to the airbox? Also while apart I thought I would check the valve clearances.... any tips would be appreciated. I have never checked these in 8 years - 10,000 k, bike has travelled 45k. thanks Quote Link to comment
Dukeman Posted March 26, 2020 Author Share Posted March 26, 2020 Number 4.... is leaking or over filling. Would I be OK to just change the needle and seats? And with the number 4 carb full no wonder it ran like a dog... and the needle seat o-ring? New gasket on bowl, tune and install. Or do i need t strip and rebuild? The carbs were off 6 months ago, ultrasonic cleaned but not rekitted as I was selling te bike, not going to sell now. Quote Link to comment
Sten Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 (edited) Best tip for doing the valve clearances would be to get one of these :- https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/152392241723 More expensive 'Motion Pro' style tappet adjusters :- https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/192124022368 Float heights are an easy job. Measure from the base of each carb body to the top of the float making sure the float tang is just resting on the float needle; i.e not pressing down the spring Edited March 26, 2020 by Sten Quote Link to comment
Dukeman Posted March 26, 2020 Author Share Posted March 26, 2020 Thanks for the reply, great tools. I have one i made... does not look as cool but does the job. What is the ideal valve clearance? 0.1 - 0.15 I feel going on the larger side is best? Mine - some are tighter than others but all 0.12 or more 1 Quote Link to comment
Sten Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 No worries mate. I don't have the specs for your bike but it is better to err on the looser side with the clearances on these oil-cooled motors. Assume you're running the standard BST34SS carbs?. This vid is for the GSX750F BST36SS carbs but the float height setting procedure is the same; you'll need the height spec for your bike though!. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2wWLsHN-E0 Quote Link to comment
Sten Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 From the old OSS forum; float height = 14.6mm (+/- 1mm) Quote Link to comment
Dukeman Posted March 26, 2020 Author Share Posted March 26, 2020 Top man for the vid. The bike seems to have the exhaust valve clearance seems more than the intake.... on all cylinders. Any idea? 1 Quote Link to comment
Sten Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 (edited) The genuine zook manual reckons intake and exhaust are the same; i.e, 0.10 - 0.15mm Edited March 26, 2020 by Sten mistake Quote Link to comment
Dukeman Posted March 26, 2020 Author Share Posted March 26, 2020 Cams look great, maybe a good flush helped LOL... but there is oil here now.! The exhaust valve clearance on all valves is more than the in take ... why? Yoshi - ignition? 2 Quote Link to comment
Jaydee Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 2 hours ago, Dukeman said: The exhaust valve clearance on all valves is more than the in take ... why? The exhuast valves deal with more heat than the inlets do. More heat=more expansion=larger clearances. 1 Quote Link to comment
Dukeman Posted March 28, 2020 Author Share Posted March 28, 2020 Ok that makes sense. Inlet valve clearance set to 0.127mm Exhaust valve clearance set to 0.152mm These were the size of the feeler gauges I had without having to use two together. And it looked like what they had been set to... only a couple needed opening up and one closing. used CRC - Peel Off - this is great stuff to remove the old gasket goo Question - what is best for gasket stuff to seal the cam gasket in place... the old stuff was a green and there was not a huge amount.? Quote Link to comment
Sten Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 (edited) 5 hours ago, Dukeman said: Question - what is best for gasket stuff to seal the cam gasket in place... the old stuff was a green and there was not a huge amount.? You should be able to reuse that gasket many times before replacing mate; if you mean that you just want something to hold it in place when refitting, this is what I bought for when I check my clearances. https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/332588211441 Any high-temp silicone stuff should be ok but go sparingly with it!. The CRC 'peel off' looks good Edited March 28, 2020 by Sten Quote Link to comment
Jaydee Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 8 hours ago, Dukeman said: Question - what is best for gasket stuff to seal the cam gasket in place Any gasket sealer will do as you only need a light bond. You are only going to put a small sliver under each of the 4 half circle parts of the gasket (sides of cylinder head) nowhere else on the gasket. Quote Link to comment
Sten Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 Pic showing the sealer in place where Jaydee mentioned :- I'm sure it's fine to run without using this stuff anywhere else; Suzuki do recommend on my bike that a thin bead of 'three bond 1207b' (RTV silicone) is used between the upper face of the gasket and the channel in the cam cover where it sits. https://www.techsil.co.uk/threebond-1207b-100g Not sure why - maybe an attempt to get folk to part with more money for something that isn't really needed?? Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 15 minutes ago, Sten said: Pic showing the sealer in place where Jaydee mentioned :- I'm sure it's fine to run without using this stuff anywhere else; Suzuki do recommend on my bike that a thin bead of 'three bond 1207b' (RTV silicone) is used between the upper face of the gasket and the channel in the cam cover where it sits. https://www.techsil.co.uk/threebond-1207b-100g Not sure why - maybe an attempt to get folk to part with more money for something that isn't really needed?? Not at all - trying to keep the gasket in place whilst inverted and squeezing it past all the obstructions is a fate worse than death as witnessed by the posts due to oil leaks and displaced gaskets . Can try grease, but it's not as sticky! Quote Link to comment
Sten Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 (edited) 8 hours ago, Gixer1460 said: Not at all - trying to keep the gasket in place whilst inverted and squeezing it past all the obstructions is a fate worse than death as witnessed by the posts due to oil leaks and displaced gaskets . Can try grease, but it's not as sticky! That's exactly why I bought some generic stuff off eblag; juggling the cam cover on to the head while not displacing the "mickey mouse" o-rings e.t.c, would be difficult to say the least. I think a couple of wires got crossed when it was mentioned that this should only be used on the ends of the rubber gasket that drop into sides of the head. To seal against oil leaks that's absolutely fine, but it can also be used to keep things in place. Anyhow, I'm knackered after an engine re-fit so I'm off to park my arse for a bit!. Edited March 29, 2020 by Sten Quote Link to comment
Dukeman Posted March 31, 2020 Author Share Posted March 31, 2020 While the cam cover is off, and I am stuck at home I have pulled the forks... all good so far until i stripped them and some A-hole had used Green locktite on the bottom Allen bolt. Took me several hours to get them out, my pneumatic impact gun just turned the bolt. Next I cut a broom handle just the right length to put the bolt under tension when the fork cap was screwed back in. Next I heated the Allen bolt head and hit it with a punch and hammer... then hit it with the impact gun. Bingo out it came. 1st one took hours... 2nd one 30min. 1 Quote Link to comment
Dukeman Posted March 31, 2020 Author Share Posted March 31, 2020 Another cam cover question. The rubber washers under the head bolts... can they be reused? Also while the carbs are off... should I look at the chain tensioner? After all its 34yrs old, working fine. I was thinking of just replacing the spring and gasaket. Or leave it alone? 45k on the clock. Quote Link to comment
Dukeman Posted March 31, 2020 Author Share Posted March 31, 2020 Parts.... About to purchase a heap of parts from Partzilla - anyone had any issues with them? Anyone cheaper? I was looking at Partnation.com but their feed back is terrible. Quote Link to comment
Sten Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 Well done on the forks strip down; these things are sent to try us eh. 1 hour ago, Dukeman said: The rubber washers under the head bolts... can they be reused? Also while the carbs are off... should I look at the chain tensioner? You should be ok to re-use those washers; always a good idea to have some spares though, just in case Not sure how Gixxers fare with the auto camchain tensioner but on my bike, they have been known to shit the bed - I plan on asking the lads here about this soon. Some oil-cooled bike owners switch to manual chain tensioners like these :- https://www.suzukiperformancespares.co.uk/product/ape-manual-camchain-tensioner/272/ Quote Link to comment
Sten Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 Regarding spares; to avoid paying top whack for genuine parts, what I do is enter the genuine Suzuki part numbers into the Eblag search box - I've recently bought quite a few new old stock items at way under the recommended retail price. It's a bit of a crap shoot but you may get lucky. Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 Cam cover washers are re-usable as long as the rubber moulded coating still resembles rubber and not dried out licorice! GSXR chain tensioners can back out and mayhem results - at 45k I think i'd deffo think about chain replacement and either new spring in the tensioner or replace with APE manual tensioner? Unless you've had the bike from new, you don't know the life the chain has had in regard to use or oil maintenance - err on side of caution! ps. Split cam chains are ok to use if you don't want to split the cases! Quote Link to comment
Jaydee Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 7 hours ago, Dukeman said: About to purchase a heap of parts from Partzilla - anyone had any issues with them? I was going to use them at one point but noticed that they add your shipping costs to the total the price of parts, and then tax you on this whole sum, rather than just the parts! Put me right off them. Go to their website and go through the motions and you'll see for yourself. 1 Quote Link to comment
Dezza Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 2 hours ago, Jaydee said: I was going to use them at one point but noticed that they add your shipping costs to the total the price of parts, and then tax you on this whole sum, rather than just the parts! Put me right off them. Go to their website and go through the motions and you'll see for yourself. This scam is global. I wrote to Royal Mail about it years ago and was ignored: in the UK VAT is usually added after postage is added meaning VAT is paid on postage costs. This con must have cost bazillions over the years. Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted March 31, 2020 Share Posted March 31, 2020 Whilst I do not agree with it - postage / delivery is a service and therefore vat is due. The fact that the service is paid for in a different country means VAT should not be levied - but try and explain that to HMRC, fat chance! Quote Link to comment
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