carb ID and rebuild advice/help

[Rhubarb]

hey guys

 

so i got these carbs with the 83 gsx750 but im looking around online for rebuild kits and things just dont look right.

 

so. i believe they should be mikuni bs32ss carbs... they have a 38mm diameter on the inlet side

 

pics inlcuded below im hoping someone kind soul is able to help me

 

 

pic quality isnt great im sorry.

 

further to that note, can anyone recommend a good place to get a good rebuild kit, and maybe a good guide to do it? ive never dont carbs before but i wont learn if i dont try!!!

[gs7_11]

Measure the outlet (engine) side... that should be 32mm if they are BS32's.

 

[Rhubarb]

7 minutes ago, gs7_11 said:

Measure the outlet (engine) side... that should be 32mm if they are BS32's.

 

34mm. so im guessing they are bs34.... and ive made a rookie error

Edited August 18, 2019 by Rhubarb

[BigT]

http://zeus.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_BS-CV_Carburetor_Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf

[Pudzrx]

First thing i would recommend is a proper set of jis type screwdrivers,  give the screws a sharp tap with a small hammer first too before trying to disassemble.

Get them ultrasonically cleaned and fit new needle valves , i have my set apart on my 1100efe at the mo so i speak from experience lol.

Puddy 

[Dezza]

Wash them with paraffin first. They look so minging I doubt they will come apart without a fight but you may be lucky. As said above use a decent fitting screwdriver or the screws will mash easily. One think to keep in mind is the float bowl gaskets may stick and become damaged when the bowls are removed and OEM replacements, as with all carb parts, cost a lot and everything is x4.

[Rhubarb]

13 hours ago, Dezza said:

Wash them with paraffin first. They look so minging I doubt they will come apart without a fight but you may be lucky. As said above use a decent fitting screwdriver or the screws will mash easily. One think to keep in mind is the float bowl gaskets may stick and become damaged when the bowls are removed and OEM replacements, as with all carb parts, cost a lot and everything is x4.

so its really not a job for a novice?

[Dezza]

It is quite straightforward. As with most things, don't go at it like a bull in a China shop and make sure you have the correct tool for the job and you are half way there already!

[Swiss Toni]

Nothing to be worried about.  Keep individual parts with the carb they came out of ... particularly the slides. Use plenty carb cleaner ( some types aren't compatible with o rings, so remove them), and compressed air. Things start to get harder if you split the carbs from the rack. If you've an Ultrasonic Cleaner, use it! Get stuck in! 

[Rhubarb]

8 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:

Nothing to be worried about.  Keep individual parts with the carb they came out of ... particularly the slides. Use plenty carb cleaner ( some types aren't compatible with o rings, so remove them), and compressed air. Things start to get harder if you split the carbs from the rack. If you've an Ultrasonic Cleaner, use it! Get stuck in! 

so leave the sliders and bars in place you reckon?

 

[Dezza]

Personally, I would split the bank. And after removing the carb tops the slides will come out easily. The butterflies will remain in situ. Inbetween 1 & 2 and 3 & 4 is an alloy piece for the fuel feed with O'rings that often perish. Between 2 & 3 is a t-piece with the same o'rings. You will have to split the bank to inspect these. The screws holding the bank together on the bars can be difficut to remove due to corrosion so make sure you have a correct fitting screwdriver. Often you'll need to use an impact driver but if so make sure you support everything well with bits of wood or it could all end in tears. When the carbs are in bits use correctly fitting screwdrivers, esepcially on the brass bits. Once you have dismantled and rebuilt a set of carbs you'll realise it's all pretty straightforward for the next set. Oh, and when removing the float pivots be very careful. Often people resort to using a small punch or drift to get them out which will break the mounting posts unless supported. Happy carb work

Edited August 20, 2019 by Dezza

[Rhubarb]

20 minutes ago, Dezza said:

Personally, I would split the bank. And after removing the carb tops the slides will come out easily. The butterflies will remain in situ. Inbetween 1 & 2 and 3 & 4 is an alloy piece for the fuel feed with O'rings that often perish. Between 2 & 3 is a t-piece with the same o'rings. You will have to split the bank to inspect these. The screws holding the bank together on the bars can be difficut to remove due to corrosion so make sure you have a correct fitting screwdriver. Often you'll need to use an impact driver but if so make sure you support everything well with bits of wood or it could all end in tears. When the carbs are in bits use correctly fitting screwdrivers, esepcially on the brass bits. Once you have dismantled and rebuilt a set of carbs you'll realise it's all pretty straightforward for the next set. Oh, and when removing the float pivots be very careful. Often people resort to using a small punch or drift to get them out which will break the mounting posts unless supported. Happy carb work

probably the most help im gonna get with this! nervous to do it, probably gonna break it, but you dont learn if you dont try i guess. in two minds as to wether to send them off to be professionally done but its more money.... parts are expensive enough!!!

[gs7_11]

Make sure you've got the right carbs first, whatever you do....   

[Rhubarb]

28 minutes ago, gs7_11 said:

Make sure you've got the right carbs first, whatever you do....   

fairly certain i do now! was unsure to begin with but happy now

 

[Swiss Toni]

Just take your time! Use your camera! As Dezza says, those posts the floats pivot on are very delicate. Always support from the other side when taking the pins out. Allens is probably your best source of affordable spares.