Faulty Ignition Barrel - 1980 GSX1100

[Russ750ET]

Looking for some advice....

After many electrical cut outs I have finally (hopefully) found the root cause of the electrical issues on my 1980 GSX1100.

The contact (2nd in from the right) on the ignition barrel has correded/come away and is making an intermittent connection. The dash/nuetral light was flickering on and off as I wiggled this wire.

What are my options with regards to solving this? I would like to keep the bike as standard as possible so keeping it OEM would be ideal.

For peace of mind I'm thinking it may be better to buy new as I do plan on keeping this bike for a long time to come. Where is the best place in the UK to get OEM old skool Suzuki parts?

 

 

[Dezza]

The OEM ignition switches are far better quality than pattern so it pays to fix the original if possible. A new OEM switch isn't going to come cheap, if you are able to find one. It is likely to come to bits but a bit of ingenuity may be required so first stage is take the switch off of the bike and remove all screws from underneath. You may have to carefully bend something back or prise bits carefully apart depending on the switch design. It looks like the wires will all come off of the tags for cleaning/replacing and re-soldering. When you dismantle the switch do this in a washing up bowl or similar as you are likely to drop tiny contacts/springs. After cleaning and re-lubing and reassembly, often you'll have a switch that will function well for another 40 odd years

[Blubber]

If the key isnt sloppy,  I too would fix the original one. Keeps all the keys matched.

I once tried a cheap patern one,  that caused more headache than I could imagine.  

[Dezza]

42 minutes ago, Blubber said:

If the key isnt sloppy,  I too would fix the original one. Keeps all the keys matched.

I once tried a cheap patern one,  that caused more headache than I could imagine.  

Yep me too re: pattern switches. I now run a hotwire plug until I can get the mounting posts machined back 5mm to fit a previously dodgy blandit 6 switch I rebuilt, which now functions perfectly (these 4 wire switches are a doddle to work on!).

[Swiss Toni]

Good advice from Dezza & Blubber. Keep your phone beside you when you strip it. Take plenty pictures at each stage. 

[Russ750ET]

That's perfect, thanks for the responses gents. 

Seems like a no brainer to have a go and rebuild it. I'll use the advice mentioned and see how it goes!

Thats a good point about keeping the keys matched too by keeping the original ignition barrel. 

[RickC]

The solder on those joints don't look like they are doing you any favours, if you have access to a soldering iron, it would be worth going to

an electronics shop or online and buy some de-solder wick, you place that over the solder and heat from the other side through the wick with a 

touch of solder to the tip it creates a heat bridge and draws the solder out, clean and tin you wires and put a dot of solder onto your tip and solder 

on, you want to not move the joint once the right amount of solder has been fed in, the joint should look nice and shiny if it is going to have good electrical 

properties, clean up with Iso Propyl alcohol if you have it but Metho would do an honest enough job to last for 15 years or so.

 

[BigT]

That resolder job is horrible

I'd find a used switch and swap out the electrical disc and wires

That would give you a chance to clean all of the internal contacts as well