Mk2 B12 into Inazuma 750 - few questions!

[1100fred]

Does it work on the 1052 as well ??

[fatblokeonbandit]

Should do, as far as I remember all the oily sprocket covers are interchangeable,

[Dezza]

1 hour ago, 1100fred said:

Does it work on the 1052 as well ??

Yes, I am doing a cable clutch conversion and the 750 teapot sprocket cover I have fits on both 1200 blandit and 1100 slabside engines. Check each cover carefully as not all oil cooled sprocket covers accommodate a gear lever post if you need this (the 750 teapot cover does).

[Shill]

Is there a ready source for cable sprocket cover lever return springs (you know what I mean!) Hoping it's a generic off the shelf part from somewhere. I broke my original one playing with the mechanism when I took it off

Will stick with the hydraulic one for now since its on, but if it doesn't settle down I'll fit the old version.

[fatblokeonbandit]

still available from Robinsons foundry, and all Suzuki dealers I suppose.

RETURN SPRING (09443-07038)

£3.38

[1100fred]

Thanks for the information  as I’ve got a spare cover and prefer the feel with cable clutch over hydraulic,there seems to a lot of problems with getting the clutch to clear on hydraulic is it more to do with choices of master cylinder 

[Shill]

Hey all, had the 1200 moving today, getting very close to roadworthiness! Clutch seems to working as it should. Not been out on the road yet, literally went in a circle in 1st gear.

Wondering what’s the best thing to put on the end of the crankcase breather hose, a catch can or little filter? I’m not fussed about the look for now and really not keen on messing about with custom plumbing, is a filter on the end of the rubber hose generally enough? It’s smoking out of there a little which is a bit worrying, but again the thing hasn’t moved in a while so guessing it might reduce once it’s had a proper run and got up to temp. If it turns out it needs a rebuild I’m throwing in the towel and taking it to a pro  

Fuelling is obviously very unhappy with the pod filters, hoping it’ll be sufficiently rideable for MOT / getting to a dyno, seems to rev up to 4-5k but then die.

Are there any temporary workarounds to improve running on pods before its set up? I’m wondering whether just masking half the surface with gaffa tape is going to help it pull enough vacuum to lift the needles?

All feels a bit of a bodge at the mo.

[Gixer1460]

Airflow causes depression which is what lifts the slides so restricting the inlet area won't help! Usually a dynojet kit will produce the required fix - although some will disagree LOL!

[Shill]

Ah, I was figuring that the rough running was probably caused by the slide not moving enough, something to do with the reduced restriction effectively reducing the amount of vacuum it can pull on top of the diaphragm, so lifting the slides less. But I guess the pressure on the underside of the diaphragm is also downstream of the filter, so any change to that would affect them both, and the differential across the diaphragm is caused by the venturi, so is not significantly changed? 

I assumed the rough running was due to a loss in that pressure differential... but I suppose even if the diaphragm is moving the same amount, it's still fundamentally  'more air + same amount of fuel = not enough fuel'. Learning a lot on this project!

And yeah, plan is to take it to the guy someone recommended at Meriden to get them set up properly. I've read the dynojet kits don't take so well to the mk2 carbs for some reason? Any knowledge on that? Hoping he can work some magic and either get a dynojet kit running sweet or do whatever else it needs, I ideally don't want to get into disassembling carbs myself (yet!). Really looking forward to getting the thing on the road!

Edit: also ordered a breather filter - again a thing I totally didn't forsee going into this, lolz

Edited July 1, 2019 by Shill