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Hey Suzuki lovers! Came hoping to pick your brains as a last resort in my struggle with a leaky float. I have a leaky no.3 carb float on my mk1 Bandit 1200 - fuel is going through the left of the two airholes. I replaced the seat, needle and the float iself with new parts, set the float height to 14.6mm as per the Manual. When I drop the bowl, let fuel in and close the float with my finger lightly, no leak, but when I close the bowl and let fuel in to do the same job, it leaks. I tried swapping the seat, needle and float with no 4. carb, and no. 3 still leaks unless I close it with my finger. Have I perhaps overlooked something? Wife and I are hoping to get riding again after 2 years - work, kids and life in general. :)

Merry Xmas friends Sitting in a garage in Thailand and trying to get a Proboost turbo kit working on a Inazuma 1200 (same set up as blandit 12). Looking for information on how much fuel pressure should be coming thru the malpassi regulater. Currently 0.2 bars fuel pressure at idle. Bike kills pistons between 6000 and 7000 rpm (see pics). Boost gauge indicates between minus 0.5 bar at idle and 0 bar boost at pistons killing rpm. Scratching heads. Any info and ideas appreciated. Cheers and sawasdee krup.

Been chasing a problem for awhile with my 97 Bandit 1200. I bought it used with only 12000 kms on it -- less than 9000 miles. It was a salvage bike with minimal cosmetic damage. I since rebuilt it to look like an Endurance Racer from the 70s. I had it running briefly before the rebuild started, but shut it down as the float bowls were leaking and the petcock was not working properly. Since the winter, I've added a Holeshot Stage 2 and Pods. I had to remove the stock airbox due to the frame mods. The bike has the following mods: Blackwidow header, GPR exhaust, engine otherwise stock. With such low mileage its just due now for a valve check, but that can't be the issue, right? I've got a constant state of generally poor running in all rev ranges, and constantly foul plugs (sooty, not wet). I've done the usual: - installed new K&L float valve kit to stop the flooding - new Pingel petcock - Li-Ion battery (8 cell -- the recommended size for this project) - set float height to 15mm (tried 14, 16, and even 17mm with no improvements) - checked spark -- good (replaced plugs 3x as they get sooted up) -- although nothing to compare it to -- a decent blue-white spark as I crank the engine over. - fitted new stainless emulsion tubes from Factory Pro (no improvement) - tried every different jetting combination, fuel screw, pilot jet, needle clip position possible (all done in one-step increments) - as the bike is revved, it blows black smoke out the tail pipe (yep, rich) - as I powdercoated the frame I made sure the engine was making good ground and added a ground strap to ensure I had a good spark; removed powder where the engine and any ground (including the coils) contact the frame. I also cut 1cm off the ends of the HT leads and put them back into the plug caps. I originally thought it might be a weak spark problem (all 4 plugs look the same). - checked the inlet boots to ensure there are no cracks. Resealed the o-rings with Yamabond to make sure it wasn't leaking there. Currently it has the smaller pilots with the fuel screw at 2.5 out. 147.5 main. Needle at 3rd clip with the spacer. Steady throttle bucking and popping on the highway, gets worse as the bike runs longer and the plugs foul up. I've never been so flummoxed before in my 20+ years of bike building. My friend with a say what now!? 1100 had pods and a pipe and it runs perfectly, with over 50,000 miles on it. Unfortunately he lives in BC and can't lend me a set! Any ideas on what to do/try next? There might be a racer buddy with a set of say what now!? 1100 carbs (no idea of what model year or size) I could try... he only lives a few hours away... I'm pretty proud of my pretty bike but am pissed that it doesnt run worth a damn. I'm wondering yet again about an electrical issue?

Hi. The bike is 2006 Bandit 1200 (SK6). The piston seal on the clutch reserve cylinder keeps blow. I changed the clutch. Started it up, heard a clunk from the left hand side, and then saw brake fluid leaking I rebuilt the cylinder and put in braided clutch hose. Go to bleed the clutch, just as the lever gets hard and I can start with the bleed, bang the seal goes again. Anybody have a clue what's going on? I am a bit stumped. Two main candidates: either the slave unit itself is at fault and needs to be replaced or there is something wrong with the right side pushrod (the left looks okay). I think it may be the latter. My working theory is that if the pushrod doesn't move, then the piston can't and the pressure behind the piston blows the seal. If so, clutch will have to come out again: the right side pushrod is way deep in there. I guess there is the third option of the clutch master cylinder having an issue but really doubt it. Please help. Thanks

Hey guys, first time poster! I just dropped in a 2002 Bandit 1200 motor into my 90 750 frame. Where does the Orange and black wire from the alternator plug go to on my 90 750 wire harness? I have 2 wires coming off of the GSXR wire harness, one red and one orange! Not sure which one to splice into! Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hi, sorry if this is a stupid question , bought a bandit 1200 mk1 engine to replace the tired 1127 engine I have in my slabby, took the cam cover off and immediately noticed that the bandit engine does not have a cam chain idler wheel as my 1127 GSXR engine does. My question is , I have some 1052 GSXR cams to drop in (changing the sprockets), I was assuming that these would bolt straight in, but the timing for these etc in the manuals I have for GSXR engines are with the idler wheel, do I need to fit one when bolting in to a bandit engine? if I do I assume there would be a specific model to use as the cam chain on the bandit is different I believe? if I do not have to use an idler, I assume I have to use the bandit timings rather than the GSXR manual settings?