skunkrider2

Dunno if this is of any help as its 1100 w into 750 w frame?, How to "make a water cooled GSXR 7/11 " - Submitted by Deano (Dean Molloy)I am sure we all know the benefits of the almighty GSXR7/11. The most common 7/11 swap is done using the earlier oil cooled (before 1992) GSXR.This conversion on water cooled models is not as popular as the oil cooled and information is harder to come by so I have put this guide together for anyone thinking of doing this conversion also.Frame:Both the 750 and 1100 frames share the same mounting brackets and holes for the motor. I used original 750 mounting bolts and engine mount brackets. The frame does not need any modification to make the motor fit.Exhaust:I choose to use the 750 exhaust because that is what I had. When mounting the exhaust I struck a couple of problems. The reason for this is simple, I was using an exhaust suited to a shorter motor and because of this the clearance to the sump was very small. As I was fitting the exhaust I had to modify a couple of things, There is an M6 bolt in the front of the sump, this was hitting the exhaustso I changed it to a Stainless Steel button head cap screw. This type of bolt gave me a smaller head and gave me a couple of mm of clearance. (See photo).The rear exhaust mounting bracket under the bike had to be modified. The exhaust was sitting higher and forward slightly more with the 1100 motor in place therefore the bolt holes didn't line up. A quick cut, weld and spray paint and that was fixed. (see photo).(A better combination could be to run and full 1100 exhaust, sump and oil pick up.)photo shows the tight fit between sump and exhaust and also the modified exhaust bracket under the frameOil Cooler:Originally the 1100 came out with a separate air to oil cooler mounted in front of the motor below the radiator, whereas the 750 had a water/oil heat exchanger mounted between the oil filter and engine block.I chose to run the complete 750 cooling system. This meant removing the heat exchanger from the 750 engine block and screwing it into the 1100 block. Fortunately I was able to pick up a complete 750 engine with carbs from Eblag for a reasonable price, this meant that I didn't have to rob parts from the mint 750 motor that just came out of the bike.To remove the heat exchanger you just unscrew the filter and then you will see a larger nut that holds the heat exchanger onto the block. Unscrew the nut and the heat exchanger will separate from the engine block.To fit the 750 heat exchanger to the 1100 motor requires you to remove the threaded sleeve that the oil filter screws to. I welded a bolt to this sleeve and then put a spanner on the end of the bolt and unscrewed the sleeve (see photo)You then refit the 750 cooler to the 1100 block (best to use a new 0-ring to seal any potential leaks)100 oil coolerRadiator:The Radiator and thermo fan assembly I used was a 1100 unit (750 will fit as well ). The only problem I had with that was the lower radiator mount bracket. Because the exhaust was higher and forward more than before the exhaust headers hit the bottom of the radiator and the thermo fan cowling.To get around this problem I put some spacers and longer bolts in between the frame and the lower radiator mount bracket. This was just enough to stop them touching.Photo shows the temp alloy spacers between the bracket and frameRadiator hoses/pipes.As I was using the 750 cooling system this meant that both the front and rear alloy water pipes had to be changed to 750 items. The 1100 radiator cap and thermostat housing sit on the side of the motor whereas the 750 has them located underneath the fuel tank.The photo shows the difference in radiator hoses between 1100 and 750 and coolant pipes. when fitted to match up the 750 cooling system the 1100 coolant pipe is facing the back of the bike and not the frontInduction/ Carbs :I chose to use the 38mm 750 carbs on the 1100. They fitted directly into the 1100 inlet rubbers and have the same spacings. Because of the larger capacity the carbs have to be jetted up to suit the 1100 motor. The main jet went from a 115 to 142.5 and the 750 needle can't be adjusted rich enough therefore a replacement richer needle or dynojet /factory pro jet kit would have to be installed. I had to grind away the back of this bracket (pictured ) to stop the carb caps from hitting the frame on each side.The 750 air box will still fit but I chose to use BMC pod filtersPhoto shows the back of the bracket mount that had to be modified to clear the carb capsSump:As I was using the 750 exhaust this meant using the 750 sump and oil pick up. The 750 sump has a large bowl on the left as the exhaust runs down one the right hand side.(A better combination could probably be a full 1100 exhaust/sump and oil pickup combination)the photo shows a ‘modified' 1100 sump and a standard 750 sump fitted to an 1100Engine Mounts:Stock 750 or 1100 mounts will fit and either can be usedElectrics:I used my original 750 wiring loom and CDI box. The downfall with this is that the rev limiter for the 750 is set about 3000 rpm higher than the 1100 unit. The 1100 CDI I had wouldn't work on the 750 loom.The rev limit on the 750 CDI can be lowered by a company in Geelong Victoria call Small Coil Rewinds (03) 5278 8454 for $130Gear Shift/Clutch:The 750 and 1100 gear levers are different. I used the 750 unit and the clutch cover had to be modified to make it fit as the lever that attaches to the gearbox selector shaft hits against the clutch cover.The 750 has a cable clutch therefore you will have to change to a Hydrolic clutch. I used a ZX7R master cylinder and original 1100 clutch hose.

Agree. (sorry original paint tho)

OMG get the Kat done. (still don't look in too bad shape) Its crying out to be back on the road.

Nice choice

Mmmm, strange. maybe theres no logic to it?

Yeh your right, mine has blue forks. Its no major problem but he was adamant that they were ~Kawasaki callipers. Pistons were in great shape (as are the callipers to be honest) Is a different matter for the rear thought. Had to drilled holes in rear to get pins knocked out (as per normal) One piston is good, but the other is scored and is still stuck in that half of calliper. Looks like I'm going to need a replacement piston.

Pulled these off my WR. They have been sitting on bike stored for 12 year, needless to say the were shagged. I stripped callipers and ordered new seals. On arrival of the seal kit the new kit (for suzuki GSXR 750 WR 1994) 4 seals were one size and 2 smaller. (mine are all the same size) After contacting shop where i bought seals, he said callipers must have been changed for Kawasaki ones at some point??? No hassle as he gave me right seals. Was just curious as I would have said these were bikes original callipers.

Looking real nice.

I thought same? Didn't this anybody was 'so off' with him? Pity because he seemed to have some good builds on the go.

Thanks to all for the above information.

Went out today and purchased said dremel. (£75 later) Saying that i always wanted one as was going to try and polish brake callipers, so money well spent. I'll give that a go with disc and impact driver, before drilling.

Sorry i should have made it clearer in the beginning, my plan would have been the 1127 oil cooled engine in the 750 water cooled frame. I was led to believe it was a 'straightish' swap. If not ill keep the 750 motor (as its only got 21000 on the clock.) and start another build with the 1127 motor. I'm open to suggestions on which way to go with this build.

Cheers for that, saves me a lot of headaches in the future.

Very nice

Im going to be doing the same in the new year. Sourced a 1127 motor (i think) and have the 94 750 sitting in garage. As far as I'm aware motor mountings are the same? Exhausts can be heated an bent to fit.

Bring back 2 strokes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (lovely bike by the way)

Thank you snorter, I thought as much. Hate drilling!!!! Oh well if thats what has to be done the so be it. The subframe has to come off as it needs raising quite a bit to take 916 seat unit.

no welding gear.

I have Ziggy, flat sides (inside) have rounded off. Out of the 4 bolts, only one has come free, the other three are stuck fast (I'm guessing they have never been undone since put in by suzuki 21 year ago!) I know steel will weld to aluminium after time, and I guess 21 year is time enough .

I bought a 1994 GSXR 750 WR, its been stood for over 10 year with original 21000 mile (engine has been ran so ok on this side) Im trying to make into streetfighter over the winter with the goal of dropping in the 1127 motor. Problem I've got is the main subframe bolts to main frame (allen head) will not free off, the heads are rounded away so will not take the 6mm allen socket. Anybody got any ideas of how to remove (before i try to drill out) Got same trouble with battery box to subframe bolts, inaccessible to get drill in, and can't remove subframe because of above?????? Going to be old school streetfighter, with a 916 style seat unit ect, ect. And finally turbo'd (but thats a long way off) Any help would be greatly appreciated,