Ade
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Everything posted by Ade
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750 WP with VFR 750 single side arm
Ade replied to Ade's topic in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes
Why does the frame need beefing up? The frame can't tell what swingarm it has. The mounting points are what matters, you have the pivot where the swingarm spindle fits, the shock linkage and the rear shock. That's all that connects to the frame. What swingarm hangs out beyond that don't matter as long as you take the time to make the suspension work. -
750 WP with VFR 750 single side arm
Ade replied to Ade's topic in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes
I like a challenge. I have got a 600 SRAD link coming which should cure the shock clearance to the swingarm. Then I reckon I will make a new top mount., I fancy making an adjustable one, but might just make an offset higher one to make it work. I could just use the VFR 750 triangle plates, single dog bone and shock, then make a new top mount, but the Hagon shock in it is fine so I am trying to use what he has to keep costs down. -
I have been asked to fix a 750 WP with a 94-97 VFR 750 swingarm fitted. At the moment it has (I believe) the WP shock linkage with cut down dog bones and a Hagon shock. The shock hits the swingarm and it's so stiff the suspension doesn't work. Has anyone got any pictures of how they have fitted. It is being dropped off with me next week so I'll take pics of the set-up as it is before I start to fix it. It needs at the least a shorter linkage, like a Hayabusa one, or changing to the VFR triangle plate set up. It has Ducati 916 exhausts fitted and the dog bone bolt hit the exhausts.
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Have the axle slots been extended on the swing arm? I am looking at putting an SV 650 swingarm in my Hyosung 650 and it is a fraction longer on the rear of the slots, while the slots themselves aren't as long as the Hyo ones. I was thinking of machining them a bit longer to get the original length on the arm.
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Bandit 1200 risers will fit. You just use one set of rubber bushes on the 1100F yoke. Any 10mm bolt risers will fit. You can use the front holes, or the rears, and set the bars where you want.
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But the early slingshot was 4.5" rim, then it went up to 5.5" for the L/M.
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Slingshot swingarms are plain box section. The early one had a 4.5" x 18" wheel with box adjusters. The L/M was 5.5" x 17" wheel with welded on machined adjusters. The 750 WP arm was different to the 1100 WP arm. I personally prefer the look of the 1100 WP arm. I have seen the Aprilia banana arm fitted in bikes and it looks great. If I was using the Aprilia snowflake wheel I would use the whole rear end and make it fit.
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I got a nice Motad pipe just cos I like the shape of the headers. I gutted it and made it into a single skin slip on link pipe with carbon can.
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Left is ZXR 750 ally split flange, middle is GSX 600F standard flange off an old pipe and right is GPX 750 ally split flange which are exactly the same as the ZXR 750 ones, same casting numbers and everything. GSX 600 F flange sat on top of ZXR 750 one. The hole size and spacing is the same for the exhaust studs/bolts. The only difference is the hole in the steel GSXF flange is a fraction bigger than the Kawasaki flange. I tried them on my Motad GSXR 750 pipe and they fit the pipes fine. The reason I ended up searching for split flanges was because my Motad has the bent cast flanges from overtightening.
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I'll take some pictures when I go in the garage.
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https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/304-Stainless-Steel-Exhaust-Flange-Suzuki-GSF-600-Bandit-set-of-4/233563248569?hash=item36617457b9:g:li8AAOSwsKRems5t The last place has Bandit flanges if you have loose down pipes.
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It might be a sin but Kawasaki ZXR 750 and GPX 750 use ally split flanges the right size for GSXR 750 Slingshot pipes. https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/ZXR750H-ZX9-Kawasaki-Exhaust-Manifold-Flange-Clamps-x2-18069-1072/164241636699?hash=item263d907d5b:g:~roAAOSwdTRe4zRD https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/Exhaust-Flange-For-Kawasaki-ZRX400-1994-08-ZXR750-1989-95-GPX750R-1987-88-Silver/264628146643?hash=item3d9d1111d3:g:32sAAOSwH8VeP434 https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/304-Stainless-Steel-Exhaust-Flange-Kawasaki-ZXR750-set-of-4/233566282560?hash=item3661a2a340:g:Vf8AAOSwIa9enssD First is an old one, second is a new set from China, third is a place that sells NOS Motad parts off.
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https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/Custom-Alien-Head-Fuel-Tank-Harley-Bobber-Centre-Filler-7-1L-2-1-US-Gallons/333353845579?hash=item4d9d70034b:g:CiYAAOSwrD9dnGlE It's like a bastard hybrid of a Sportster and a Mustang.
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It is going for a specific style that the Alien tank will work well with. The Sportster tank will be used on the other one.
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Been getting stuck into the red GN frame. They have a short top tube that makes it hard to fit a custom tank because the frame tubes get in the way. I decided the way to go was to cut the cradle tubes out completely and fit a centre post. The top tube had already been extended to fit the hardtail. I have cut all the excess tubes out and the centre stand brackets, plus any other old bracket I wasn't happy with. Bare frame before cutting Frame after cutting Original Sportster tank fits nice now Alien tank is going to be used though Going to brace the area where the original frame meets the hardtail and fit the centre post.
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https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/MV-Agusta-Ducati-748-916-side-stand-spring-bar-non-flip/233576631969?hash=item3662408ea1:g:kb0AAOxySE9Q8TTu Actually the curved bracket is made specially to stop the side stand self closing.
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Ducati use a funky curved spring bracket, you can make them any shape you want.
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I have used two short springs before to make the length I needed.
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That shows a stand with a tab for the spring. I remembered lots of bikes use a tab to allow for a shorter spring to be used. I was gonna make one from some 20mm x 3mm stainless when I thought about the chain I used for our Great Dane's lead. He was 12stone and could snap leather leads so I got a metre of galvanised welded chain, 30mm od links, 25mm id. Nice radiused curves that fitted the stand perfect.
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Try a weaker spring, or slightly longer one. The side stand on the GS 1000 Wes Cooley tribute was broken. I had a spare stand but the spring hook was slightly different I needed an inch longer spring. I had a brainwave and cut a link from our old dog's chain lead. It was around an inch and worked perfect.
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Mk 2 pipe is painted and fitted at the right angle, looks good to me.
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The angle of the pipe isn't quite right yet, it was just test fitted. The pipe is being painted black and will be adjusted to the correct angle when refitted. It works and has a deeper sound than the Mk1 2" pipe. It lets the motor make full power all through the revs. The first pipe was great low revs but choked up at high revs, now it revs out. It is way too loud with no baffle wadding but at least a little wadding can be added to tone it down now. It can have a regular db killer fitted to tone it down a bit more without choking the motor.
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I used a 63mm 45degree bend but it wasn't quite right. I cut one leg off to weld on the other end to make the length right to the reducer. The reducer is actually used as an expander 2 " ID to fit the original header/link pipe, 60mm OD to fit inside the 63mm tube. I cut the 60mm section down a bit just leaving enough to line it up square in the tube. I drilled the 2" bit for the slots but didn't cut the slots until it was welded. When I had welded the bend to the extender and reducer I worked out the right angle to fit the straight end tube. The lower baffle support was used as a slug to brace the two sections together so it's all welded solid. The 2" baffle tube fits from the end to where the support is at the bracket.
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I made baffle support rings from sections of tube welded together, it was cheaper than buying a billet of stainless and turning some.
